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View Full Version : ReTro VaLvE ROF question....



drx975
04-03-2002, 06:28 PM
For all you Retro owners, or RT owners who have been past automag owners, what was your ROF with the stock valve? Then when you got the Retro or RT, what was your ROF increased to? Plz be specific this time I hate when people say "it made it a lot faster because of the kick-back" well that doesnt tell me ***** at all.

to make it simple just do like A and B, A being ROF with stock valve, and B ROF with retro.

A: xx
B: xx

thanx

Bulldog
04-03-2002, 07:57 PM
There's really no way to answer your question the way you want. Not very many people have access to the kind of equipment needed to accuratly measure they're ROF. Hence the lack of response.

The diference isn't as simple as, before I shot 3 balls a second, and now I shoot 5 balls a second, the retro valve is more eficient, so there's no shootdown and its damn hard to short stroke. You tend not to break that many balls, so you can fire faster, how much faster? Fast enough for me that I wasn't pissed at the price of the upgrade. keep in mind for the valve to excel you'll want to use the intelliframe (or at least a double trigger.) and compressed air. hopefully that helps some.

Predater
04-03-2002, 08:05 PM
well i dont think anyone can ansure how you want but o well.

with my old gun i could get around 5 a second. i dont have a real fast finger. with my rt i out shoot the hopper at will. i cant give a # cuz to be honest i havnt cared about it. i can keep up and out shoot electroes and thats what matters.

learn to use it and a warp or halo will be a must so the hopper can keep up with the gun. i think thats plenty fast.

drx975
04-06-2002, 03:55 PM
k

Stimpy
04-06-2002, 05:25 PM
ive been trying to get this question answered for a long time....what exactly in the ReTro makes the trigger "bounce"? I guess what im really asking is, whats the difference between a stock valve and the ReTro?

than205
04-06-2002, 06:25 PM
this is the way I understand it....
On the RT the air source is coming into the on/off chamber (lack of better term) unregulated. It then moves on to the reg and out the power tube. What this does is pushes the on/off pin with the full force of available incoming air. If I recall correctly the trigger takes (roughly) 1 lbs to pull and comes back with (again roughly) 3 lbs force. This is the "reactive" part. Many people talk about a "sweet spot". This is supposedly when you have an adjustable reg tank and you fine tune the output of the tank reg. The "sweet spot" is when you have the trigger esentially bouncing off your finger, basically full auto.
Where as with the stock valve the air coming into the on/off chamber is after the gun reg.
If anyone feels the need to correct me go for it.
Like I said this is the way I understand it. I am always open for a better understanding of anything.

On a side note the Tippman RT trigger works with essentially the same effect. I've seen this it's very cool.