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View Full Version : Sorry Guys...I Got A Spyder Question



vlhockey22
05-11-2002, 08:42 PM
I came here to ask the question because I couldnt find the message board on the Spyder Owners Group page plus I have more faith in all of you:D .Now for the problem...Me and my friend were playing today and he gassed up his Spyder compact and took a shot, as soon as he took the first shot it did the full auto thing like it was out of co2. so I take his tank and give him a fill and he puts it on his gun and it does it again. So i grab another kids tank and put that on the gun again the same sputtering problem. We took the whole gun apart and nuthing looked unusual so we put it togethor and still the same problem.I don't have much experience with spyders so Im stumped!! any help would be greatly appreciated.
PS: sorry I had to bother u guys with a spyder question

the JoKeR
05-11-2002, 09:39 PM
It's been a while since I worked on one, but did you take the bolt/hammer assembly out to make sure it was cleaned up and no o-rings were screwed up? You might also check the sear to make sure it's not chipped, allowing the hammer to run free.

Bwaites
05-12-2002, 01:40 AM
This problem is almost always a striker o-ring which has gone bad. The striker is the bottom piston, not the bolt, which is the top moving piece and is pinned to the striker inside the gun.

The oring often doesn't look bad or has a microscopic tear.

If replacing the oring doesn't help, let me know.

Bill

Polishpickles451
05-12-2002, 01:29 PM
i would say it is the fault of the sear. I've played with a spyder with no striker o-ring at all and it wasn't a problem. But what it could be is that the frame isn't screwed in far enough. If it's loose, the sear is not holding the striker. Work with the sear and the frame, the prob is somewhere there i think.

Threewheeler
05-12-2002, 01:52 PM
While you're at it....

Check the valve, and cup seal... I had to fix a TL+ with the same symptoms yesterday. It was the cup seal.

Three

Bwaites
05-12-2002, 01:58 PM
The cup seal was next, but they seem to go bad less often than that striker oring.

Spyders site does have a FAQ that adressess this exact problem.

I can't figure out how you could play without that oring, it is what seals the chamber to direct gas to the bolt.

Bill

Otis
05-12-2002, 02:11 PM
hehe this is why i don't have spyder but sounds like sear or hammer.. liek they said u can sharpen the sear it might work but it'll likely chip away again.. be sure if u sharpen it not to do it to much or the boltwill hang out the front and paint balls won't be abel to dop in.. good luck with it ttyl

the JoKeR
05-12-2002, 05:15 PM
Originally posted by Otis
hehe this is why i don't have spyder

My .02... The Spyder (and it's clones) are as tried and true a design as you're going to get these days, and you have to work to destroy them. I owned one for years, and my only maintenance was replacing the occasional o-ring. This problem should be a lot easier to fix than, as example, a leaking RT valve, which has more parts than an entire Spyder (or pretty darn close)!

TransMan
05-12-2002, 07:17 PM
i much prefer my RT to my TL+ nad i havent had any major problems with either

vlhockey22
05-12-2002, 08:15 PM
thanks for all the help. i took the trigger frame off and discovered that when i pull the trigger nuthing hits the sear to push the sear down. so i guess thats what the problem is. anyone know what i can do to fix it?

Polishpickles451
05-12-2002, 08:51 PM
when the tirrger frame is not on the gun the trigger doens't work the sear. Push down on the sear, you'l see that now the trigger works. Just screw it in reallt tight when u put it back on and try it.