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View Full Version : Installing shims in the Level 10


Eric_AGD
07-08-2002, 07:05 AM
If the carrier is not pushed all the way down into the power tube, the shims will get caught up in the threads where the power tube tip screws in. To prevent this, push the carrier all the way down (can use a pen or pencil), then with the power tube facing up, put in the shims. Make sure the shims are all the way down on the carrier (past the threads). Keep the power tube pointed up and install the power tube tip.

Eric
cphilip
07-08-2002, 07:43 AM
Great point! Thanks Eric! I installed a link to this thread in Toms "Classic: All LVL 10 Info Here"

My 2 cents: Another way to make sure is to install the carrier and push it down the best you can and then thread the new PT tip all the way down to be sure. If it doesn't go all the way down then it's not fully seated. Once it does screw all the way in, hand tight, you can remove it and place the shims in with no worries that they will be caught when you replace it.
Midway
08-18-2002, 03:14 PM
I appreciate the tip on getting the carrier all the way in before dropping shims but do you have any good tips for getting the dang thing back out when you realize you need the next size smaller?

Thanks,
Midway
manike
08-18-2002, 03:18 PM
Midway, I use an old dental pick. You can also use o-ring picks. And I have done it once with an allen key (hex wrench). I've heard of people using bent paper clips also...

manike
Load SM5
08-18-2002, 03:24 PM
My entire powertube assymbly unscrews for the rest on the valve. I don't know if this is good or not, but I can push the carriers out from the other side.
HoppysMag
08-18-2002, 04:32 PM
load sounds like you have a level six mag, or early level seven:D
Load SM5
08-18-2002, 04:36 PM
No, I have an SFL.
HoppysMag
08-18-2002, 04:38 PM
oh well then i donno thats wierd:eek:
Midway
08-18-2002, 05:15 PM
Well, I didn't have a dental pick around so I used an old tent stake. The cheap metal ones that come with a two man tent and bend if you try to actually put them in the ground. They worked perfectly for pulling out the carrier.

Now if only I had a couple of scuba tanks to break the O-rings in on... I have gone through my 90-4500 twice now during this installation and just as I'm getting close, phhhhhhffffff.... Out of air again. Oh well, guess I'll be waiting until tomorrow to find out if I got it right this time...

Thanks for the help.
magman007
08-18-2002, 05:34 PM
um load? that cant be good! lol. I guess it is time to give tom a call. HEy, you might be able to snag a new aluminum valve if your lucky! Oh, and i got my grips
Snewk
08-18-2002, 07:59 PM
A good way to get that carrier out is to use the field strip screw! Just stick it in and take the carrier out.
S14-Racer
08-19-2002, 12:27 PM
My brother has a retro valve that does this as well. Mine doesnt but his does. Its rather odd, as the powrtube and base unscrew, and there is a large reddish o-ring around it. No problems arise from it its just......different. (edit: oh and his is newer than mine, mines a 600 and his is an 1800)

Oh and I use the .050 allen key to pull mine out.
BlackVCG
08-19-2002, 02:02 PM
Guys, make sure you aren't using the blue bumper on your RT valves that have the PT body that unscrews completely. If you use the blue bumper instead of the clear urethane one, the excess vibration on the valve body caused by the bumper being too hard and the high ROF the RT valve puts out will cause the weld on the PT to break and be able to unscrew.

That's one way it can happen and it can happen even if the gun is used normally. It's not good at all that it unscrews so you need to put some red 271 loctite on the threads and thread it all the way back in and let it sit for about 12 hours before using it.
Midway
08-19-2002, 05:12 PM
So what you're saying Black is putting my valve in the vice and trying to get it to come apart is not a good idea?? ;)

Has anyone else had the piston come out of the Superbolt and end up inside the valve body? I got it back out and put back together but I don't think that was supposed to happen and I'm not sure what I might have done to cause it. Any thought?

Thanks,
Midway
Load SM5
08-19-2002, 05:19 PM
No it's not supposed to happen.Same thing happened to me and a few others. Locktite that thing back in. After you get it in tap it with a hammer a few times to make sure it's in all the way.
BlackVCG
08-19-2002, 10:07 PM
To make sure you have it in all the way, measure from the tip of the bolt to the back of the bolt piston (piece that sticks out the back of the bolt). The length should be 2.010"

The next batch will be machined as one piece.
Midway
08-21-2002, 09:09 AM
When the next batch comes out machined as one unit will there be an opportunity for us early pioneers to upgrade to the new bolt?
Pand0ra
08-22-2002, 06:14 AM
I had also the problem with the piston. And I've a removable power tube too lol.

Is red loctite not a bit too strong for this job? It'll be almost impossible to unscrew the two parts if one day it's needed.

@++
BlackVCG
08-23-2002, 10:30 AM
You will NEVER need to unscrew the PT to service anything. AGD welds them from the factory. There is no reason to take it apart so yes, red loctite is suitable in this situation.
Pand0ra
08-29-2002, 06:56 AM
Okidoki. PT tube redloctited :) .
warpfeedmod
08-29-2002, 08:09 AM
how do I know if I've got an older LV10 with the piston that comes out? I just got my kit about a month ago or so.
Pand0ra
08-29-2002, 08:28 AM
The first batch of bolt was made with a two parts piston.

I don't think the piston in one part is already available.

@++
warpfeedmod
08-30-2002, 07:09 AM
doh okay I'll have to be careful with it then I guess..I havn't tried to see if it'll come apart :p