PDA

View Full Version : Ghetto Intellifeeding!!!



Telefragged
08-11-2002, 01:35 PM
Well, since I have litterally no money left ($3.25) but still want to intellifeed my RTP, I decided that I'd use terminals and wiring that I still have from other projects. I'm going to use 28ga solid core Hook-Up wire for the connections, and for plugs, I'm going to use 1/4" male & female quick-connect terminals.

Everything's going to be soldered and insulated with Heat-Shrink tubing (I like neatness in my work :D) but I've got a question. Since the Earphone extension cords that AGD recommends are actually two wires connected to one plug, and I have no way of insulating a single terminal I've got to use two separate terminals (combined, still smaller and neater than one earphone plug). It seems like the second shield wire, connected to terminal one of the roller-switch in the PDF file, doesn't exactly do anything but act as a ground. The other wire, connected to terminal 3 of the roller-switch actually sends the signal to the Revolution.

Is the Shield wire even needed? Or is connecting it to the battery terminal a neccessary process in the Intellifeed. As small as these quick-connect terminals are, it'd still be neater to only use one!

sicones
08-11-2002, 02:55 PM
you are going to have a problem with those uninsulated quick disconnects touching each other and keeping the hopper on

and you need 2 wires to have a closed curcuit

Telefragged
08-11-2002, 05:42 PM
Quick disconnects will be insulated with shrink-wrap tubing to prevent bad signals. Since I wasn't able to get a roller-lever microswitch today, I went ahead and wired up my Rev. Turned it on after soldering on the wires, works fine. Put it back together, turned it on, put my finger in the feed-tube... it doesn't stop. Is this a side-effect of re-wiring it, or did a plug slip off something somewhere?

Telefragged
08-11-2002, 08:17 PM
Bah! Remind me to never take my Rev apart again. I had to deal with several broken connections, and sizing issues with the new wiring and shrink-wrap tubing. I found myself cutting bits of plastic form around the motor and board housing to get my wires to fit. Got it all together, and the twisted wires look pretty cool, but I've got a concern.

Things were a tight fit inside, and once it was all back together, I looked inside the loader and saw what looked like some wires being pinched inside. Picture will be attached. Think anything bad could happen as a result of pinched wiring? I don't want to have to take this apart again and reconfigure the wires. Please, if you've done this and seen the thread, give me your wisdom!

rhetor22
08-11-2002, 08:51 PM
the wires will be ok... but you're gunna have a harder time opening the lid to the rev...

you really should take it apart and get them to fit in there, you don't want stuff to jiggle around.

your battery cap might come out easy now...altho i doubt it because it takes a pnuematic hammer to get the thing in there in the first place...

Telefragged
08-11-2002, 08:56 PM
The battery door is a bit harder to get in than before, and I'm jsut worried about the wires, do you think I should try pushing the wires around again?

rhetor22
08-11-2002, 09:24 PM
actually i've done that before...

i just got a somethnig... i forgot what i used... maybe a butter knife will work... and just losend the screws a bit and pushed the wires back down then tightend.

try that, i'm sure it'll work and save you some aggrevation.

Telefragged
08-11-2002, 11:53 PM
Meh... took it apart again and corrected teh problem with the battery door. I'm using a larger-guage solid core wire that I had for this job, and its a little harder to twist, bend and such, so I had the wire connected to the battery terminal getting in the way. Cut a small notch in the battery compartment wall and fed the wire through there, problem solved, Took me a little bit of time, bit I got the mess of wires organized and stuffed rather neatly away into the small area above the motor.

Pain to get the shells to fit back together correctly, the board wasn't sitting right and I had to push it around for a little while. But, I got that done, and now all you see is a neatly braided wire coming out the bottom of my loader.
No sense in posting a pic now, but I'll get one when I'm finished with the trigger frame tommorow, accompanied by any new questions.

rhetor22
08-12-2002, 07:24 PM
your RT is soooo pretty.

i would take that over an emag.

my dream gun is an RT just like that, centerfeed, my rev, and a 48/45 fiber tank.... ooooooohhh

i'm too poor and don't play paintball enough to need anything more than my ghetto punk *** ray.

oh well.

nice gun. glad to hear you got the rev wires all corrected.

the twisted wire looks nice actually...

Telefragged
08-12-2002, 07:58 PM
Thanks for the help and comments you've given me. Gonna have to wait a bit, the RadioShack by me doesn't have roller-lever switches... arg!

Gitaroo Man
08-12-2002, 07:59 PM
have fun with that one

paintballfrk13
08-12-2002, 10:18 PM
i need to know how to wire the intellifeed in my revi. i talked to a rep at the IAO and he told me to look in "tech resources" but i didn't find it . pictures would be nice and if you know a link just send me there

Magaholic
08-13-2002, 09:30 AM
Here's the link to the intellifeed picture story:

http://www.airgun.com/downloads/eureka3.pdf

I just wired up my intelliframe yesterday. It was pretty easy. Good luck!

paintballfrk13
08-13-2002, 10:02 PM
even though i'm putting this in a tippmann this is the best tech site for any mods ever!

Tunaman
08-13-2002, 11:23 PM
Do not use solid wire. Stranded wire has a lower resistance and better current flow characteristics. Also, solid wire is no good for any enviroment where there will be vibration. It will surely fail and kill your batteries sooner.

Jonno06
08-14-2002, 05:23 AM
wow,that RT IS so sexy!!!!!!!!

i want i want i want(i wouldnt take it over an emag though...)

good job too..i dont have those brain cells to do hat stuff,crap..i have to leave for school...bye!

*runs out door*