View Full Version : Loc - Tite
HoppysMag
08-11-2002, 08:17 PM
what is the best number of loc tite to use on a macroline fitting into the vaulve of a classic mag???
thanx in advance:D
Telefragged
08-11-2002, 08:23 PM
Blue #242 medium strength. Not to hard to remove if needed, but strong enough to hold and seal well.
paintbattler
08-11-2002, 08:26 PM
im not a fan of it becuz its hard yo get off
Reo5th
08-11-2002, 09:38 PM
Its really not that hard to remove. When I got my mag used - it had steel braided hose sealed in with RED loctite. That had to be removed using a propane torch...i've taken off blue with my hands - but it still seals great.
HoppysMag
08-11-2002, 10:11 PM
Thanks guys...:D
Here's some handy info on Loc-Tite:
LOC-TITE VALUES
COLOR=BREAKING TORQUE=HOLDING TORQUE=SET TIME
PURPLE---53PSI---30PSI---20MINS
GREEN----85PSI---250PSI--20MINS
BLUE-----115PSI--53PSI---10MINS
BLUE(for plastic fasteners) 5--4--2
RED------190PSI--275PSI--20MINS
RED(high temperature application),
200PSI---220PSI---30MINS
bmanrkg3
08-11-2002, 10:26 PM
Actually, if the threads are loctited, use a lighter(or mini-torch.) to heat it up. do so for like 3 min and it should come off, if not, heat it longer.
i personally use a grill lighter(extended reach=no burnt fingers)
angelKiller16
08-11-2002, 11:28 PM
the package for blue says it is for autobolts and the like but on the back is a chart telling you it's strengh, set time and possible uses, blue can be hand removed while red is severly harder.
RT pRo AuToMaG
08-12-2002, 12:12 AM
i've removed red loc-tite with no source of heat before. all you need is some muscles.
Telefragged
08-12-2002, 12:19 AM
Using heat is easier when you either A: only have one wrench, or its only you removing it without a vice! I'd say blue should be fine for all practical applications. Using RED is ridiculous for any paintball related fittings or screws, save maybe the fill nipple on a high-pressure tank! Otherwise, its blue or Teflon Tape for me!
BlackVCG
08-12-2002, 12:19 AM
Use Loctite 545 or 592. Don't use any of the other ones listed. They aren't made for sealing the thread like 545 and 592.
steveg
08-12-2002, 05:34 AM
In addition to the ones that Black mentioned there is
Loctite PST (#567) this is the one that most hardware and
automotive stores sell in little squeeze tubes.
It never hardens but will seal at least 3000psi. I used it to seal
the swagelok fittings on the Nitrogen fill station
that I put together for my friends store.(swagelok is stainless 10 000psi rated )
tapered threads don't really need to be glued together they
will stay together well enought with just a bit if tightning.
In fact with PST the fittings on my mag are FINGER tight.
The only down side is that it's a bit messy and smells bad!:eek:
angelKiller16
08-12-2002, 12:31 PM
i have red on my fil nipple on my HP tank that's it but it's not necassary anywhere else. And my friend at the shop put the red on.
using red and not using heat to help remove could mean shearing off the fitting. So then you'd have a nice macroline fitting with no threads, and a valve with threads from the fitting stuck in there and very very difficult to get out. So if you use red, which I wouldn't, use a torch. With blue I run it under hot water and it makes it easier to get off, even though it isn't very hard to begin with.
Dayspring
08-13-2002, 12:38 AM
I wouldn't do that. I blew the O-Ring in my feed nipple on my tank. As it was, the Crossfire Gorilla put it on, cuz the tech had a hard time with it. (although, he was impressed with the Lvl 10 Mod)
Originally posted by Telefragged
Using heat is easier when you either A: only have one wrench, or its only you removing it without a vice! I'd say blue should be fine for all practical applications. Using RED is ridiculous for any paintball related fittings or screws, save maybe the fill nipple on a high-pressure tank! Otherwise, its blue or Teflon Tape for me!
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