Tom. I have an LX tuning question...

[DiRTyBuNNy]

Just wondered if there was any corelation between the powertube spacer a person was using and what carrier/shim combination they would use for the LX kit...(just kind of came to me..and if i wasn't the first..then i guess great minds think alike...hehehehhehe)

[BlackVCG]

No. It's a new bolt so nothing stays the same.

[DiRTyBuNNy]

I also had another question..and it's rather vast in scope..I've read quite a few of the different Level 10 installation guides here on the forums..the only information that's missing that i've seen would be to find out what exactly would be the result if you did a change to a different carrier or a different spring. Let's say you've got your valve setup 2/2/Long spring. What would happen if you changed any (or all) of the three variables (carrier/Shim/spring length) in either direction? That's what i've had a tough time understanding...

[Tunaman]

If you use the longest spring and the loosest carrier that wont leak, you will be on the leading edge. The shims are acting as the powertube spacer(or part of the assy). Start with the middle spring, then fine tune from there. The carrier oring should be dry when checking fit. The bolt should not slip off the carrier if turned upside down.

[BajaBoy]

Tunaman, thank u have help me out with fine tuning too

[BlackVCG]

Once you get the right number of shims that it vents when it pinches a ball, don't mess with them. They are the least critical part of the LVL 10 and do nothing to the performance of the system. Also, once you get the proper fitting o-ring you don't need to change that if you change the spring, just the velocity.

[BlackVCG]

Originally posted by bunkerhugger
The sooner the bolt vents, the less pressure the bolt can apply to a pinched ball or other object. While this is generally good, an oversensitive bolt can stop cycling on seemingly insignificant obstacles - like a barrel which is slightly out of whack, say from resting it on the chrono.


I don't know why you guys think of shims this way. It has NOTHING to do with how much force it puts on the ball. It's kind of a "Go - No Go" situation. The bolt will pinch the ball at the same point in the stroke regardless of how many shims it has. It's either going to vent or it's not going to vent. It's that simple. Each shim is .010" thick. If you're thinking that by moving the vent point sooner in the stroke it starts to vent and slow down a bit reducing the force, look at the size of parts you're dealing with. There is no difference in force, period.

[hitech]

Originally posted by bunkerhugger
What differences could I expect to see if I removed the shims?

The shims control how far the bolt travels before it starts to vent. It is possible to have the bolt pinch a ball and not vent, therefore not return (re-cock).

If you want it to vent as early as possible, keep adding shims until it leaks, then remove one.

[BlackVCG]

Originally posted by hitech


The shims control how far the bolt travels before it starts to vent. It is possible to have the bolt pinch a ball and not vent, therefore not return (re-cock).

If you want it to vent as early as possible, keep adding shims until it leaks, then remove one.

Exactly.

[DiRTyBuNNy]

hey Black...can you take a look at my other thread and tell me what you think...http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46933