Warp Feed questions

[Hsuve]

To those who may be able to help out, I'd like to know a few things. I personally have actually owned my Warp Feed for a long time, but it's been one of those "Hook it up and go" situatioins, and now I'm more into tinkerin' a bit with it.

1. Until just recently, I had thought all Warp Feeds just kinda "jam" up the balls into the tube, rather than rolling past it. My Warp Feed has that problem where it doesn't roll past when all balls are in the Warp Feed, rather than jamming up. I never really jammed a ball in there, but I just finally realized that the wheel isn't supposed to jam up, but rather roll past, heh. How would I go about doing that? I've heard about breaking a ball, spinning the wheel, and letting your finger lube it up, and I've done that before. That didn't really help... Should I loosen the two screws that hold the wheels together and the other pieces? Any help on this would be great.

2. Dwell time... Everytime I press that white putton, it spins 3 full times (1080 degrees, I believe), and I'd really want to cut down on that to make a quarter of a turn or less. I own the manual, I've looked at the manual, and I've talked with people, and am still confused. :( I'm not sure which jumpers I should deal with. There are two sets of them on my board (I have a PTP Warp Feed, if that helps any...), one set of them are above and slightly to the left of the white button, and the other is right next to the vibration sensor plug hole. I've heard of on/off sort of positions, but have no clue about what that is and all. What I'm looking to do is drastically cut short on the time it spins, and if somebody could help with that, it too, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance to all who're willing to help. :)

[Havoc_online]

1. just keep fresh batteries in the warp, lubing it works well, and the friction disks are spaced to work with most paint. If you know your going to be using big bore paint, you can use something like a manila(sp?) folder to make a "spacer" for the disks, but then you will most likey run into problems if you use mid or small bore paint.

2.I'm not positive on the PTP warp, but on the AGD warp the jumpers on the left(with four sets of jumpers that are connected horizontally) are for spin time. when they are connected horizontally they are in a "storage" position where they do nothing until you connect them vertically, then they shorten the spin time, the more you connect vertically, the shorter you make the spin time. you should be fine by only connecting two vertically(don't make your spin time anything lower than a 1/4 turn).

hope this helps...

[PyRo]

YOu can use a bit of vegtable oil to lube the warp disks. As already stated, you can make a spacer from a cerial box or somthing.

[FrAuStY]

Originally posted by PyRo
YOu can use a bit of vegtable oil to lube the warp disks. As already stated, you can make a spacer from a cerial box or somthing.

Yup yup yup, I used a manilla folder (yellowish one) and cut about 4 shims out. I used the warp wheel center and a hole punch to make the template. Now, if I use large bore or sticky paint, I slap a shim on both sides, lube up the discs and warp on!

[hitech]

The shim idea using manila(sp?) folders is a good idea (I'm going to steal it ;) ). You need the disks to be able to slip past the paintballs.


Originally posted by Hsuve
2. Dwell time... Everytime I press that white putton, it spins 3 full times (1080 degrees, I believe)...

Do not use the white ("prime") button to determine how much the warp spins. Fire the marker to determine how much it spins. The previous posts explain the dwell jumpers. :D