ALL about the WARP-FEED

[Havoc_online]

ok I'm going to attempt to organize all the info on the warp since most ppl don't go looking at the airgun site. I will fill in anything else I remember later...Please read on through my next couple of posts and feel free to ask any questions or make comments :)

Warp Manual (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=97&CATID=15)
overview
what you need
jumpers
sensor
run in
maintenance
batteries
feed tube
hopper
lefties
automag bodies

Warp detailed view (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=147&CATID=15)

Intellifeed to Warp Interface (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=239&CATID=15)

Hopper Mods for Warp Feed (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=297&CATID=15)

12v mod (http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=402997)

Warp to Angel Interface (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=95&CATID=15)

PTP 12v drop-in kit (http://www.proteamdirect.com/bwarp12adapter.html)

warp mod pricing.
by popular demand.
here are my prices.

on/off - $10
big cell - $15
on/off w/ bigcell - $20 <--All you need and what I recommend.
12v mod - $20
12v w/ on/off - $25
l.e.d. - add $4
fix broken warp - case by case basis - pm me.

You MUST also include insured return shipping.

[Havoc_online]

The warp is a great way to eliminate hopper hits, that's what it was designed for, the fact that it's fast is a bonus. A 9v warp feeds @ about 16BPS, a 12v around 24.

The warp weighs 1 pound and is well balanced once on the marker. It can feed paint at any angle using it's friction disks, although only in bursts. The warp needs to stay fed to keep the balls moving, once there is not enough balls in the warp, the warp does not have enough mass to throw up the feed hose to the marker. That's why an Electronic hopper(i.e. Revy, Rico, HALO) is recommended to feed your warp. If you outshoot your warp, then you have most likely outshot your hopper.

The warp is easy to maintain and can be mounted on pretty much any marker. The things you need to keep in mind is a good ball stack, fresh batteries, and lubing your friction disks every now and then(you can use a paintball, or oil for this, don't over do it though).

quick reference on jumper settings for different set-ups.
The right set of jumpers control what activate the warp(see warp manual).

with an Iframe- place a jumper on the top(neg.) pins

with an Emag- place a jumper on the mid(pos.) pins (The connection runs into the center plug on the Emag board with a Emag/warp interface cable found at the Airgun online store)

using the vib. sensor- place a jumper on the bottom(vib.) pins(the spare jumper may be placed in the mid(pos.) pins for storage(it comes like this from the factory).

The set of four jumpers on the left of the board control dwell time(see warp manual) you want to set your dwell time to 1/4 turn, no less.

New Warp's need to be broken in when new(see manual/Runin).

It's not a good idea to use different types of paint in the warp at the same time. Different bore paint won't let the friction disks grip all the paint in the wheel properly and that can lead to the warp not feeding properly.

[Havoc_online]

The warp friction disks should be straight, avoid leaving paint in the warp when it's not in use, this can make the friction disks spread apart and impair the ability to grip the paint properly. If your friction disks are not straight and have begun to spread apart you can flip them around.

The warp friction disks are spaced for most bore paint. If your having trouble using big bore paint, you can add a friction disk "spacer" or "shim" to space the friction disks further apart. This may give you problems with smaller bore paint though.

As an example I made a stencil out of cardboard from a cereal box.

[Havoc_online]

If you can tell from the pic, I placed the shim between the friction disks to spread them apart a bit.

[Havoc_online]

You can just barely see the shim once the wheel is assembled, the friction disks are now a bit further apart and should help with bigger paint. The thickness or the amount of shims you use depends on the paint. I have personally never had to use this method so the amount you spread the disks apart should be little by little with a lot of testing to make sure you dont go too far.

[Havoc_online]

Some problems you may run into or be familiar with is the hose being to loose and falling off the adaptor or the adaptor falling off the body.

To solve the hose to adaptor fit problem, simply use the big black o'rings supplied with the warp feed and wrap 2-3 around the ends of the hose. This will give a good snug fit. If you don't have the o'rings you can purchase some from the Airgun online store.(you might find some that fit from your local hardware store)

If you want to give the adaptor a snug fit to the body, you can get your hands on some friction tape sold and any hardware store. Simply cut a thin short strip not even long enough to loop the bottom of the powerfeed tube and that should be enough. This can be done so the tape is not seen once the adaptor is on.

Another thing you can do for a great stable hose is run it through your revy, it will not only lock the hose in place but the revy won't fly off either. This method also protects your ballstack from a hit that may either knock your hose off or break a few balls in the hose.

here's a pic of the hose with the rings.

[Polishpickles451]

great thread havoc!
I was wondering how these would work on a cocker. I heard that the vibration in a cocker would not activate the warp properly.

[Jack & Coke]

Excellent!!!http://www.automags.org/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

[hitech]

Originally posted by Polishpickles451
I was wondering how these would work on a cocker. I heard that the vibration in a cocker would not activate the warp properly.

There is at least one warp fed cocker at my field. He loves it. I believe he is using the vibration sensor.

BTW, I vote for making this thread a classic. :D

[Havoc_online]

Yes a cocker can and has been warped plenty of times. The easiest way would be to just use the sensor and play with your sensitivity(the blue dial) till you find a reliable point.

p.s. Thanks guys...:)

[joeyjoe367]

what's with this hose you guys have? Mine is like a big curly spiral... is mine just older stuff? Should I get the newer lookin' stuff you guys have?

[Havoc_online]

both hoses will work fine, the grey hose is the older stuff, the black hose is what comes with the newer warps. AGD just started getting thier hose somewhere else.

[Doobie]

Awsome! Up for a thread that deserves to be a classic in the Tech forum!:D

[LawFox32]

can you used 20 gauge wire to make the warp=intellifeed instead of 22, will it make any difference?

thanx

[Havoc_online]

yes, the wire will be a tad thicker though, so you will have to cut into your grips that much more.

[LawFox32]

cool thanx man

[surfer349]

the link to the 12 v mod doesnt have any pics or instructions or anything worth while. maybe i am going to the wrong place, but this is where that link takes me:

http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=9013&messageid=1014171197


Adam

[Havoc_online]

it's fixed...

[surfer349]

are there instructions, because i have no idea how that is supposed to be pu together and what not......


adam

[Havoc_online]

that's as easy as it gets, goto radio shack, buy a 12v regulator you can get that and a toggle switch and follow the diagram. If you'd rather not do it, your local dealer might do it for you.

[Slapp]

Pro-Team Products has made a bunch of these and has them available. They do a nice job and you can just drop one in if you don't want to make one yourself from radio shack parts.

[Havoc_online]

ya thanks for the idea, I put a link up on top...

[LawFox32]

hey havoc, I am intellifeeding my warp and I was wondering, where in the trigger pull should I have the micro-switch click, is it better earlier in the pull or later in the pull,

thanx

[FrAuStY]

I spent three hours making a how-to page on my site for hooking up a switch and using a 9.6 1600maH re-chargeable RC CAR battery pack for powering your warp.. CIO!

http://bellsouthpwp.net/1/b/1badandy/warpmod.htm

Pm me with any errors you find..or if you have problems.. OR..if it's just not understandable.. I may have to re-write it.. :confused:

[Havoc_online]

hey havoc, I am intellifeeding my warp and I was wondering, where in the trigger pull should I have the micro-switch click, is it better earlier in the pull or later in the pull what type of trigger frame do you have? just set up the roller switch like it is in the pics.

[LawFox32]

I-frame, and hey does AGD do any kinda warranty work on the warps?b/c my is broken and I have no idea what is wrong w/ it

also can the warp function w/ only one of the jumpers?

do you know some one who can fix or does fix warps?


thanx

[Havoc_online]

what exactly is wrong with the warp(whats it doing?) and what have you done to it. Yes, they fix warps(or send it to me and I'll fix it;))

how are you running it?(signal pins only need one jumper)

[LawFox32]

it just doesn't do anything at all, It will not spin, I have it set up for intellifeed and it doesn't work either,

could you fix it for me, I will pay you like 10 bucks plus shipping both ways

[Havoc_online]

go ahead and ship it to me, pm me with details.

[Ejp414]

how do you mount this on a gun? I've been thinking about getting one someday, but I want to know all the details. And will this make my gun really unbalanced?

[DoubleDutch]

I recently ordered some Warp Feed hose from the AGD store to try some other setups, and I got the new thinner black hose, but I didn't get the O-rings that were supposed to friction fit them. Any chance I can get two of those sent to me, AGD?

[Havoc_online]

how do you mount this on a gun? I've been thinking about getting one someday, but I want to know all the details. And will this make my gun really unbalanced? it comes with a one-piece mounting plate that allows you to mount the warp on the right or left side of the marker with plenty of angles to play with.

DoubleDutch - PM me your address and I'll send ya some(OR you can take your hose with you to Home Depot and find some o'rings that fit)

[LawFox32]

warp hose doesn't come w/ the o-rings,but dude just go to Home Depot and just pick some up from the plumbing section, cuz AGD isn't doing anything until after World Cup.

P.S. havoc is quite possibly the greatest guy on AO, well maybe second or third, there is tom and I

[Jack & Coke]

What kinda of motor drives the warp? What's the model number and rating?

[ClassicMagMan]

im gettin a minimag and I wanna get a warp for it which powerfeed should I get for it, left or right?:confused:

[LawFox32]

well classic that depends on a few things

if you are right handed you will want a hopper right powerfeed

and if you are a lefty then hopper left

its also preference

[Havoc_online]

P.S. havoc is quite possibly the greatest guy on AO, well maybe second or third, there is tom and Ilol he likes me! he really really likes me! :)


What kinda of motor drives the warp? What's the model number and rating? It's a carbon brush motor. I'm not sure on it's model number but my guess on it's rating is 18v @24,000RPM(no load).

[ClassicMagMan]

k, thx!

[LawFox32]

Havoc wouldn't it be a 12v motor b/c you can't run 18v's into it,(2 9v batteries, thats y you need the 12vregulater)

just wondering

[Havoc_online]

you need the 12v regulater for the board(which is actually rated for 18v but it's not stable) you can run 18v straight to the motor with no problems, but I'll tell you right now, your not going to sneak up on anyone with how loud the motor will spin.:)

[Jack & Coke]

You can bypass the board and run 18v right into the motor?

If you bypassed the board and ran 18v directly to the motor (activated by an Intelliframe - roller switch setup), how many balls would it spit out with each trigger pull?

Since each trigger pull is extremely brief in time, how many turns would the friction disc actually make with each pulse? Since the board is bypassed, I'm guessing the dwell time would be extremely short as well. Would it be enough to consistantly feed?

[Havoc_online]

yes, you CAN bypass the board and go straight to the motor, BUT not with an Iframe hook-up(that needs to board to close the signal). It can only be done with a marker that sends a pulse(an Emarker) like the Emag.

If you ran the 16.8 volts from the Emag battery straight to the warp motor, you'd get something in the low-mid thirties. This is obviously overkill. No hopper can come close to keeping up with that so it's worthless, the 12v mod is perfect cause the HALO B can feed just under the 12v's abilities. Also, not having the warp board means that you will have to run your Emag in Emode all the time and not only will your battery drain twice as fast but once it's dead and you switch to manuel mode, you won't be able to load because you will have taken out your vib. control. (did I mention you'll be able to hear the warp spin from other cities? THAT' HOW LOUD IT IS! lol j/k):p

[Jack & Coke]

Also, can you explain in detail "how-to" lube the warp wheel? Do I have to take the warp apart?

[Havoc_online]

I personally use the same oil I use on my marker
cover my finger in oil
take the bottom hose-warp adaptor off
stick my finger in
use the handy white button to turn the disks
I repeat till both disks are nice and slippery all the way around

[Jack & Coke]

Drop test results...

Although these results are subjective by nature, I believe that after 5 samples of data, a good idea of what is happening becomes predictable and fairly consistant (i.e. you get the picture of which is faster than the other).

[Jack & Coke]

BTW, "FRESH" and "BRAND SPANKING NEW" batteries makes a BIG DIFFERENCE in performance!

But then again, you probably already knew that...;)

[Havoc_online]

like the chart Jack:)

How'd you time the test? If it was for more than a fraction of a second then the 12v warp will only feed as fast as the HALO because if your using good sized paint and lubed disks, the disks should slip past the balls(it's unnoticeable) while it's waiting for the HALO to catch up so it's only as fast as the HALO.

leaving batteries in the warp will drain something like 4volts a month(slower with a bigger cell) so yes fresh batteries are key;)

[CNC9D]

I just purchased a used Warp Feed. After I cleaned it and got it back together I hooked it up to my RT and was tunning it in when I noticed smoke coming from the board. I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again. I still noticed the smoke. I then felt around and the top left... thingy ?(Q1) was realy hot. When the motor is running the... thingy ? cools off. I am using a 9V batterie.
Is the board on the edge of burning out or just Q1? Is this normal? Could I glue a small heat sink onto Q1?

I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed?

[Havoc_online]

Yes it is on the edge of burning out. It's not normal and no you can't use heatsinks.


I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again.paintballs in the warp?

was smoke coming from Q1 itself or it's solder connections? does it look like there was any resoldering? Is the solder touching and closing a connection between two independent pins?


I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed? even if you did, you would still have this little problem of yours.

[CNC9D]

All connections are looking good. I will be using the warp feed in a few days and then will look into grtting a new board.

The warp feed works fine on "sens" on my RT but I would still like to hook the warp feed up to a micro swith in the trigger frame.

I will be changing frames in the future, hopefully to a Iframe/Z-grip or one of the two.

[CNC9D]

When the previous owner had it, a paintball hit the warp feed where the button is and sprayed paint up inside. the smoke is comming from ither the remaining paint under Q1 or Q1 itself.

[hubadlatimmy]

which way does the 90 degree adapter go on, I'm trying to set mine up to use on an angel tomarrow yet am cluless and can't get this to go. If somebody could post a pic or explain to me how I get the 90 adapter to work. Thanks

[Shirow]

I got a new warp two days ago, and after using it all day on Sunday, I noticed that the friction disks aren't quite straight anymore - the bottom one seems to be a little bit warped - not hugely noticable, but you can see it's not straight anymore. Is this normal?

[joeyjoe367]

Shirow, that's pretty normal. I haven't noticed a big change in my friction discs, however I've been shooting pretty small paint as of late.

If they REALLY start to get bent outwards, to the point where they don't grip the paint anymore, just flip them inside out.

[Shirow]

Yeah, it's not even bent outwards, just warped a little, flipping it wouldn't change them.

Thanks :)

[SI|ENT|3O|3]

could you dye the shells with rit dye?? lmk.
-sebastian

[JodoCast]

i hook up the 12v mod to my warp and plugged in the regulator and batteries

all connections are good but the warp continues to spin and spin and spin then when i take the batteries off it stops

any ideas

what do you think

thanks will

[Jack & Coke]

This is known as the "run-in" period...

Please read the instructions that came with the warp. TK explains it there.

If you don't have the instructions, go here: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/WarpInstructions.pdf

Read the section titled "Run In"

Good luck!

[Havoc_online]

CNC9D
if the board hasnt completely fried by now, you need to get all of the paint out of the board and see if that does the trick. If it does or has fried, the easiest thing to do would be to buy a new board.

Shirow
as long as it's loading you should be fine.

SI|ENT|3O|3
yeap, same as you would a revy. Dont worry about the sensor, it wont ruin. Just make sure it's dry before trying to use it again.

JodoCast
on some warps, the 12v mod needs a capacitor(100uf) to get rid of the "noise" that gets through the regulator, that should do the trick.

[JodoCast]

where do i get it??

and how do i hook it up

any help would be good

should i let it run and see if works in

or not
any info would be great

thanks


will

[eljimbo]

I just tied my warpfeed into my ghetto morlock controlled e-cocker. I just cut the wire going to the vibration sensor, soldered wires from the output to the second solenoid on the morlock. So the warpfeed is essentially turned on by the 45-60ms second solenoid pulse. However it seems the fast I pull the trigger the less time the warp is actually on per trigger pull.

[SI|ENT|3O|3]

"yeap, same as you would a revy." can i get some instructions?

[Brunno]

hey i am in the same pickle as Lawfox. Mine is broken and it just doesn't do anything. Would you be able to help me out as well?

[minion450]

I just have to say i love AO. I am an Angel user and stubled apon these forums. I got every question i ever needed answered her for my Angel. Then i was having some probs with my Warp, got all my questions answered in that as well. Because of Automags site helping me in all my paintball needs even in products that are not their own i am going out and buying a Mag. Especialy because they are cool enough to have A forum for a product of a differnet company.
I LOVE YOU GUYS.


p.s.
any suggestions on a Mag under $300. I have a spare CA tank already.

[Hitcat]

Hello, I have a warp feed and the 12v upgrade.
I want to make it spin with every pull as I dont care much for the vibration sensor. I have a mako Storm trigger frame on a Piranha, Yes I said piranha ;P.
There are 4 wires I am looking at to hook up. 2 toword the selinoid and 2 into the trigger. WHich ones would I hook up I tried the ones to the trigger once already and it constantly spun which yeah would be great but I'd burn motors left and right. I'm wondering if maybe my wires in the plug were touching completing a circuit. Working on it based on the angel hookup. Any insight that may help would be appreciated.
Hott

[minion450]

Has anyoned noticed a wierd reaction to your warp 12v if you use Duracell Ultra. I had a regular Duracell and when i pluged the Ultra in it wouldn't stop spinning, and it was spinning fast, faster than it usualy does at 12v. Its like the Ultra just passes threw the 12v regulator. Thought it was wierd and worth mentioning.

[Havoc_online]

JodoCast
did you ever get it working? Email me if you didnt.

eljimbo
You didnt have to do that, resolder the wires on the vib. sensor(if you can). Then use the wires you had them hooked up to and build a connection plug(just like you would an intelliframe hook-up). Plug it into the warp board and set your right set of jumpers so that the only jumper(shunt) connected is the mid(pos.)

SI|ENT|3O|3
boil some water in a big pot, pour in some Rit dye, dip the shells in till you have a color you like, take em out and dry.(all this is at your own risk). search and you sould come up with better directions.

Brunno
no problem, pm or email me details;)

minion450
Glad to hear it! try the classifieds or Ebay(make sure whoever you buy from has good feedback)

Hitcat
I'm not too familiar with the wiring on a piranha, perhaps goto your local shop and ask them which wires you could tap into in order to receive a pulse or pm vern1 here on AO, he might know cause he's the man:p .

minion450
I only use E2's(very light) so never noticed but thanks for the input.

[ShooterJM]

I'm getting a warp shortly. Does anyone have a guess at how many shots a warp with fresh batteries? I'm trying to determine if it'd be better to design a single power source to run everything.

[minion450]

i had to have gone threw about 3 cases with alot of time in between and still had power

with the cold weather i had some problems though. also now i have upgraded to 12v so i don't know how long they will last

hope that gives you an idea

[Havoc_online]

it all depends on how you use the warp, if it's running off the sensor, the batteries wont last as long as if it were running off an intellifeed cable. If your worried about battery life just run two 9v's in parallel to make a bigger cell.

[JodoCast]

thanks for you help

one question is the emagnum board worth it

and do you know where i could get a blade trigger for emag

thanks again

will

[Havoc_online]

glad to hear it!

Emagnum board is NOT worth it.
and to get the blade trigger, just pm or Email anyone from AGD pride.

[ShooterJM]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
it all depends on how you use the warp, if it's running off the sensor, the batteries wont last as long as if it were running off an intellifeed cable. If your worried about battery life just run two 9v's in parallel to make a bigger cell.


Would you reccomend intellifeeding just the warp or the warp and the revy.

[surfer349]

hey,
i checked my local radio shack to see if i could get a 12 v converter for the mod, but they said they didnt carry it; never have, never will.

so where can i get one, or should i just use that battery pack mod where one can use a battery pack off a remote controlled car?


adam

[minion450]

somthing wrong with that radio shack then.

[Havoc_online]

ShooterJM
Ifeed the revy if you outshoot it. Both if you worry about batteries for the warp. Ifeeding the warp doesnt really speed it up cause for the life of me I can't outshoot it just using the vib sensor. However, outshooting the revy always happened with me till I started using the HALO on the warp.(Ifeed the warp if you run into LX recoil issues(I never have but hear about it alot))

surfer349
It's called a 12v Regulator. The Radio Shack may of been out of stock but they do carry it. Building the set-up isnt the easiest thing to do if your not used to soldering and such. You could PM me if you would like me to build ya one.

[AlabamaMan]

Warps rock i used one on my tippmann for a while, i was borrowing it from BlackVCG. But then he went and put it on his E-Mag. There is nothing like shooting the tippman with a flatline barrel upside down. Talk about crazy-ness. A tippmann has no problem useing the vib sensor. I just can't wait till i can afford one for my new RT-Pro.

[ES13Raven]

Besides the 12v mod,

What mods have people done, and do any actually improve feeding?

[Havoc_online]

Warps are the bomb now there is a guy who knows what he's talking about;)

Raven, with the warp, everything is pretty much options. How you want to mount it. What you want to activate it. Are you having trouble with your warp feeding? the 12v mod isnt really needed unless you are pulling over 16BPS(I doubt it, unless it's a non-legal triggerpull) inwhich case you would also need a HALO to keep up.

[minion450]

Yeah i love my warp best ebay buy i ever made :) You keep saying to use a halo. Do you know how the new Evolutions are.

[Havoc_online]

cheaper. But also slower. and FREAK'N UGLY(imho:))

[minion450]

Yeah the looks kinda had me going. I thought they were faster though. oh well a halo is my next perchase when my rt pro comes in

[ES13Raven]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
Raven, with the warp, everything is pretty much options. How you want to mount it. What you want to activate it. Are you having trouble with your warp feeding? the 12v mod isnt really needed unless you are pulling over 16BPS(I doubt it, unless it's a non-legal triggerpull) inwhich case you would also need a HALO to keep up. Well.... I plan on getting one for my Dark FreeFlow Racegun. I'm kinda doing it as a project, and I want to see how fast I can get it to go. I already have a 12v TurboRev and a Ricochet, so I don't want another hopper.

I don't know if you have seen it yet, but The Racegun guys have a Raced FF Cocker doing 20bps with a modified Halo B: http://www.raceguns.dk/data/RGP_320x256.avi (4,7meg lo-res)
http://www.raceguns.dk/data/RGP_512x409.avi (10,8meg med-res)

[Havoc_online]

the only thing that's going to feed 20 is a halo B, the turborev and rico wont go over 15 on a good day. the egg I heard pushes around 17.

a 12v warp will do 24 but is only as fast as the hopper loading it in long strings.

[minion450]

What about Rechargable batteries. would you go NiMh NiCd or lithium ion batteries. I would hate to spend the money on a bunch of 9 volts and a charger to find out they don't work well with basic mechines. I know i tried using ultras in a little motor car and it killed it in minutes where a regular alkiline lasted much much longer. so if anyone knows anything that would be great.

[Havoc_online]

I personally dont use rechargables but always hear about Plainviews being the only ones worth it since they are NIMH and are rated for a higher mah.

batteries (http://www.4cbradio.com/9v-nimh-batteries-chargers.htm)

and this charger to charge them.

charger (http://www.4cbradio.com/pb-tri-charger.htm)

[AlabamaMan]

Plainviews are great rechargeable batteries, I use em. I use a regular energizer battery charger too. Like the one you can get at any store it can charge 2 9V or 4 AA or AAA batteries. Works great

[pballguy17]

hey, i got a prob with my warp. first it's used, so it may ove ben thrown off of a building for all i kno, but the guys was really kewl, and i doubt anything was ERALLY done to it.

My warp doesn't always spin when i fire the gun. My sensitivity (the blue tower like thing that spins) is set literlly milemeter's from where the warp spins on it's own, and than stops. but it still doesn't spin when i fire the gun. sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't, if i tap the side of the warp, it takes a descent wack to get it to spin. NOW after i got it, and i put batteries in, i closed the door and it was really tight, so i tried to open it again, and it was SUPER tight (the door). i finally got it open, and it split the wires, they got cut in the door!. lucky my friend had extra wires that we sodered onto the old ones, and got it working again. but in that process, we open the entire warpfeed, and put everything back togther peice by peice. also the scrwes on the board are stripped, and don't spin out =\. thanx for any help, it'd b nice if u PMED with help, as well as posting for anyone else who might have the same prob ;)

[Havoc_online]

it's possible that since the board screws are stripped, that the board isnt sitting where it should so the springs that make contact are not doing so properly. Since I dont have the warp, I can't tell ya for sure.

check your PM.

[ES13Raven]

I thought this should go in here too! :)


Originally posted by RobAGD
http://www.automags.org/~RobAGD/rob-art/ball-stack.jpg

I think this is self explanatory.

If your not getting it right you need to play with the adapter hight to get the stack correct.

This is the biggest problem I have seen to date for feed problems with Warps.

-Robert

[ES13Raven]

Any problems with the Warp and Advantage shelled paint?

[Havoc_online]

Do you have problems or are you asking if anyone else has had problems? I have never had problems with any different types of paint in a warp.:)

[pballguy17]

It seems with my warpfeed that the top right screw (plastic box fascing away) seems to have an effect on my senstivity. i took my warp apart to try to fix the senstivity, and i lost the nut on that side. and it was really senstive. i found teh nut today anre replaced it, and it seems less senstive, i shot it w/o nut and it was perfect, i have NOT shot it w/ the nut to c a actual change. do u think i'll have a preformance diffrance? and is this normal?

[ES13Raven]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
Do you have problems or are you asking if anyone else has had problems? I have never had problems with any different types of paint in a warp.:) I just got mine, and haven't had a chance to put any paint through it.

I read that in another post somewhere, about warp and advantage shell paint. RP is all I shoot, so I was wondering if it was a common thing but I guess not. :)

[ES13Raven]

I found out that the used Warp I bought was modded for 2 9vs in parallel for a bigger cell. So I am changing it to the 12v mod.

I have been reading old posts about the 12v mod, and how sometimes it is necessary to use a capacitor to "filter out noise" and "keep it from constantly spinning."

Will I need to add a capacitor to this setup, or only if I run into problems? If so, what capacitor(s) will I need? (I read that you need 2 caps, and also read that you can use just 1 on the output of the 12 regulator)

Also, will using a capacitor keep a "pool" of regulated juice to draw from? (more power for bursts)

I will be running this using Intelliframe on my Racegun.

[Havoc_online]

I've never found the problem where the warp wont stop spinning but it happens to some ppl(you could use a 100uf cap). I did however measure the output on one set-up I did(with no cap) and it was about 16v, the warp worked fine(awesome actually);) .Personally, I wouldnt install one unless I got a picky warp.

[Doobie]

BTW...for those interested in a 12v mod and are too lazy to do it themselves, (like ME!) the PTP 12v that is linked at the top of the thread works very well and is well put together. Last time I checked they were on sale for about $12! It cost me $16 w/ shipping. For a guy who does not have a lot of free time, it was well worth it!
:D

[JT2002]

please look at my thread. i really want to use my warp!!

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=554687#post554687

[pr240sx]

In my situation, my paintballs are just like the "wrong" diagram.

How do I solve this?

[Havoc_online]

make sure your plug(parabolic) is in the correct position and your hose is not being pinched.

[qbano65]

Hey Havoc, is there any real advantage to getting the pro team products warp kit over the AGD for my minimag??? What does the ptp one have that the AGD one doesn't? I went on their site but didn't really get much info out of it.

Carlos

[Havoc_online]

I'd pick the AGD one anyday. The PTP is basically a different mounting system that offers a different angle but also has the vib sensor on the mount(I've personally seen a lot of problems with the sensor on the outside.)

[qbano65]

Thanks Havoc, I'll remember that.

Carlos

[pr240sx]

Where?
Inside the 90 adapter?
Right now the feed tube makes almost a 90 degree turn just to enter the adapter.
Could the problem be there?

What could happen if the stack is wrong?

[Havoc_online]

do you have a pic of your set-up?

[pr240sx]

But I will try to take one

[dre1919]

Hey Havoc, I'm thinking about getting a Warp Feed for my Hyperframed RT. I'm not sure if you know, but could I wire the Warp to the Hyperframe so it operates when I shoot like an Intelliframe or Angel? If so, how?

[Havoc_online]

I havent worked with any Hyperframes so I couldnt tell you from experince, however I searched and came up with these two threads.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26001

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12009&highlight=intellifeed+hyperframe

[dre1919]

Thanks Havoc. This sounds complicated...I was reading the thread about somebody linking their Hyper, Revvy, and Warp all so kick on when shooting and it started making my head spin. Maybe I didn't read that close enough but it sounds like some complex BS to me. So, saying I can't actually link it where the Revvy and Warp start up when I pull the trigger on the Hyperframe, what's the next best thing? I understand the Warp has a sensor that tells it to start going when the gun vibrates, but what do you set it to with the LX? The LX gets rid of a lot of recoil, so doesn't that mean you need a more sensitive setting? Also, linking your Revvy and Warp is fairly easy isn't it?

[Havoc_online]

The warp has different sensitivity settings, As long as your springs are making good contact and your warp is nice and secure(to transfer vibs better) you should be fine. I ran vib. mode on my LX RT for a long time with no problems. Yes you can link the warp and revy, many ppl have done it.

[Kory]

I'm having some problems with my warp. I have done the 12 volt mod with parts from radio shack. I run the warp with a micro switch I mounted in the 45 frame of my micromag.It worked fine for a while but now will not stop spinning when you plug batteries into it. the sensativity adjustment slows it down some but doesn't stop it. unplugging the microswitch does nothing.
As a side note my warp doesn't have any springs in it. could that cause this. Mine was one of the first ones made. It never had the springs. Where do they go and what do they do?
Thanks for any help.
Kory

[Havoc_online]

The springs I meant were the vib. sensor/board contact springs, they only matter if your using the vib. sensor. I see that your warp doesnt spin but I didnt understand your post, are you running it intelli(with a rollerswitch not microswitch) or vib? If your sure your board jumper settings are right double check your wiring(if it's intellifed) to make sure nothings closing the circuit. If it's ok, your 12mod may be letting too much voltage through.

[minion450]

Kory sounds like the batteries in your 12v mod are creating some noise. I found that the Duracell Ultras tend to do that. But a capacitor will filter that out.

[Kory]

I'm using the same switch that the agd tech article says to use.(intelifeed) I got it from radio shack and it has a bearing on the end of it.
I will try differant batteries I am using duracell ultralights. If it needs a 100uf filter where is it soldered in?
Thanks for the help
Kory

[Brunno]

hey i am having a lot of problems and i know nothing about warps. i just got this warp used today, and i put it on my gun, to see of course if it would work. The thing is that i have to push that white button to get my warp to turn the balls to go into my gun. everytime i hit the button, the balls will move, but with the revy on and my gun shooting the warp won't turn at all? it might be my ignorance, but any reply is thankful.

[Havoc_online]

the cap goes on the output of the reg.

brunno, read the first page of this thread and check your board jumper settings.

[CMDane]

If you want a little different jack option for the phone plug, look in Radio Shack's gold plated bin for a 3/32 90* mono (not stereo) phone plug. Part number is 274-243. Sure it's gold plated, solder only and $1.99 for one (instead of 2 for $1.99), but you don't have the plug sticking downwards off of the Warp. If you've used the straight plug, you know what possible issues can result.

Also, spend the extra $1.99 and buy a bag of shrink wrap tubing. Feed the wires in and warm the tube w/ a hair dryer. Makes the install look much cleaner and the wires are protected a bit more.

Now if I could only get the Rico to mount to the Warp without falling out! :)

Charles

edit: Added part number and specified mono jack, not stereo.

[mxracer33x]

I have found that with some of the warps that are experiencing problems and needed a capacitor added, that the cause may be the 12v regulator instead. I had this problem, and had some od readings on a meter, so i tried the same wiring harness with a differnet regulator, and it worked perfect. And to make sure that was the problem and not a connection issue, I switched back to the "odd" regulator, and I had the problem again. Just a heads up, You may be able to just swap it out for a differnt regulator. It is nice to not have to use the capacitors if yo uare installing a switch and LED for limited space reasons.

[JT2002]

anybody accidentally snap the battery snaps off the board?:D ;) my soldering sucks:(

[Havoc_online]

jt2002, read this thread.
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61220

[SI|ENT|3O|3]

im having a lot of trouble with chopping with my warp. i know i know level 10, but i chop like every other ball. i just don't understand. i just got a new barrel and have plastic nubbins in it. i am kinda frustrated right now. maybe ill have to get rid of my warp, revy, and pf-hr body and trade them for a no rise and a halo. i am starting to think this is the answer. i really love the warp but can't get it to work right!! please save me.
-sebastian

[SI|ENT|3O|3]

nevermind...man im an idiot...somehow both of the plastic nubbins i was using snapped:D now i feel like a real poopy head. :D well i love warp again.
-sebastian

[Havoc_online]

how'd they snap? did you have both barrel o'rings on? Do you have extra nubbins?

[shadow462]

I'm thinking about getting a warp for my lx-intelli-retromag.

I have a pf, hl body, and I'm a righty. Is there a reliable way to feed this setup without putting the 90* adapter on the top of the p/f. Would it be feasible to put the 90* adapter directly into the warp's "out" hole, and run the hose to the bottom of the p/f?

Also, are you familiar with butter's mod in which the rev batteries, sensor, and board are removed and "intellilinked" into the rev? If so, is a 12v modded warp necessary? Would a 9 volt warp essentially make the rev 9 volt also (I'm assuming yes).

Finally, is there a reliable feeding method to avoud cutting a hole in the hopper (ie- idea i mentioned above to run hose up other side).

Thanks so much
John

[Havoc_online]

you could run the 90* from the bottom of the pf around to your warp.

The 9v warp feeds faster than any revy.

just make sure your hose is not being pinched and you'll be fine.

[TraXeR]

I just got a used warp and everything is working, but the 9 volt battery hookup wires to the board are disconnected, im guessing they were torn off or something, where do I re solder them? im worried about frying the board.

[JT2002]

Originally posted by TraXeR
I just got a used warp and everything is working, but the 9 volt battery hookup wires to the board are disconnected, im guessing they were torn off or something, where do I re solder them? im worried about frying the board.

yeah, i did the same thing :mad: what i found to work best for me, since i dont like to have to re solder things that dont need it, i wanted to keep the motor connected to the board, so i took apart the whole thing, then pulled the board out just enough so that i could slip the 2 battery wires around the side of the board. doing it this way gives you very easy access to the board to solder since your doing the soldering on the same side the potentiometer is on. worked for me, not most professional way to do it, but it didnt fry the board (like it might have if i tried to get the solder out of the holes to reinsert a wire). while your in there soldering, i suggest that you buy some wire and make everything a little longer so this cant happen again. also make sure you dont lose the springs under the board because i believe they are needed if you use the vibration senser to run the gun.

[TraXeR]

um, i know how to solder it on, but i dont know **WHERE** on the board each wire goes to, thats what i needed help with.

[CMDane]

+ (red) to VCC
- (black) to ground

Both are clearly marked on the Warp board if you unscrew the 3 screws on the board cover. VCC is the third one down, Gnd is the 4th (last).

Charles

[richardh]

so does the capacitor go in series or in parrallel with the out put of the 12 volt reg?

[Havoc_online]

In series. In parallel, both batteries are still running 9v.

Welcome to AO!:)

[TraXeR]

k thnx guys, my warpds working great now, i just gotta set it so its more sensitive and spins longer, ive read some of the instructions, but i still dont want to screw with it until im 100% sure, any help? can you take some pics of the board and circle what i need to change on it and tell me how and what it will do thnx. right now it spins for less than 1/2 a ball, i want it to spin the distance of 3 balls each time and i want it to be just under UBER sensitive so i can tap thwe side with my hand when reloading balls cause the white button is hard tp find when not looking. thnx. plz send this help to my email game_freak_oblivion@hotmail.com

[CMDane]

It's not really that hard, TraXeR, the directions are spot on. I'd recommend something a little less sensitive, or using the white button to feed (quieter on the field if bumped, less prone to run accidentally if jarred, longer motor life), but it's your Warp. :)

Since you want increased sensitivity and a decent run time, work on the sensitivity first. Put the battery in the Warp, take off the board cover and look for the potentiometer. Should look like a blue pencil eraser with a white cap on it. Gently turn that clockwise until it stops. That is the most sensitive setting. In actuality, the Warp should be spinning. Slowly turn it CCW until it stops. Bump the side of the Warp at approx. the strength that you think you'll bump it on the field. Turn the cap CCW, and repeat. Bump and turn. Bump and turn. Eventually, you'll bump and the Warp won't run. Turn the pot a smidgen clockwise and bump. You should be dialed in at that point.

For the amount of feed time, or dwell, there is a group of jumpers on the left side, just below and to the right of where you soldered the battery wires back on. If you are feeding half a ball when the Warp runs, it sounds like you have 1 jumper in place. The more jumpers you add, the longer the Warp runs. It doesn't matter in what sequence you add jumpers, just add them vertically. Horizontally should shut the dwell down. If you don't have spare jumpers, you can pick them up at Radio Shack or any Mom & Pop computer shop. Hit the white button and add a jumper. Repeat until it spins the desired time.

Put the cover back on, gas the marker up and fill your hopper. Go burn a couple of balls and test it out. Make sure everything is set the way you want it and don't be afraid to tinker with the settings more. Easy to remember, more jumpers, more time. More to the right (potentiometer), more sensitive.

Hope this helps,
Charles

[rehme]

on the 12v mod is the reg suppose to get hot?

[StygShore]

I have allt he parts, and I see the pictures, maybe I am missing something....

Once you have the wiring all in place, how do you attach it to the Warp itself? Is there any point in leaving the original 9 volt adapter on the gun? ( mine is broken off is why I ask.

I did all the wiring with the on/off and LED mod, I just dont know how to attach it to my gun now :) Sorry computer technician, but horrible with electronics


Styg

[srrdude]

My warp jus stopped workin last week and ive been tryin to fix it ever since! i really wanna avoid the 3 hour round trip to the proshop AGAIN to get yet another piec of equipment fixed... as im typing this (or inbetween typing i guess) im workin on it. all wires seem to be connected,and i am only running 9 volts. The funny thing is this thing just stopped workin outta no where. I had just got back from the shop where i was askin bout the sensitivity (since i had just bought the warp) and it was working. then it just stopped. i tried my microswitch, i tried the sensitiivty but nothing works. It just stopped. No smoking, no sounds, nothing. Please HELP!! i just bought a z-grip so im broke right now (i ahve 14 dollars to my name) and i really cant afford a new warp... Help me Havoc!! (by the way... can i call u the H.O. of A.O. ? :P)

[Havoc_online]

rehme warm is ok, hot is not.

StygShore I cant really tell you from just reading your post, it depends how it's built, some people just make drop in kits that connect to the current battery connector, others tap into the board.

srrdude sounds like you just have your jumpers mixed up, go over the manuel again and see if you could find a error. If your convinced that something is really wrong beyond settings, take it to someone who would know or mail it to me since We're both in Tx, it shouldnt take long.

People please dont do any mods to your warp if you dont know what you are doing. It's not hard to mess something up and end up with a broken or messed up warp. I am NOT responsible for any errors you make. The orginal purpose of this thread was to inform people without warps that were seeking information or to help people who were having trouble with thier warps, I linked the 12v mod in for the people who know what they are doing but needed somewhere to start from. If you want a mod done to it, send it to me or someone who knows what they are doing. If you DO really know what you are doing but just need a little advice or have a question, please dont post it which encourages more people to have "non-stock" warps, PM me and ask me, I'll do my best to help you out. Stock warps work AWESOME and dont need anything done to them to work right.

[srrdude]

i didnt mess with anything without referrring to the manual first. Where should the jumpers b? i have the one on the bottom to controll activation.. cuz i havent installed a microswitch in my warp yet (the even with the microswitch it wont work) and i set the other jumpers up (the left set) like the manual shows: one vertical on the far left, and one horizontal across the top 2. kinda like this [:][ ][']['] if that makes any sense... ive tried almost all jumper possibilities but maybe im doin something wrong. id hate to send it off if its something small like that... even if u are just 3 hours away.

[Havoc_online]

Hrmm.. what was wrong with the warp last time when you had to get it fixed? You say that the wries are in good shape and batteries are good, have you checked the wires going to the motor? look very closely at the board and see if any of the pins burned out on any of the componets.

*added, your jumpers sound fine so it's most likely something else.

[srrdude]

no my gun was gettin fixed.. the guy there just switched a jumper from the intellie to the sensor.. and it worked for a while but then on the way home it stopped. And could u say wat u just again in english-for-dumbies?

[Havoc_online]

check the wires going to the motor and look closely at your board. look CLOSELY to see if any of the pins that connect the componets to the board have burned out.

[srrdude]

what are the pins... which components.. and how will i know if theyre burnt out?

just a side note.. my motor works fine.. i put a nine volt againts the motor and it spun...

[srrdude]

using a very long process of elimination i can conclude that the problem lies in the switch. thats right, the on off switch.i know this, bcuz after re-routing the wire from the battery directly to the board rather than goin thro the switch, i activated my warp. prob just bad wiring in the switch. ill keep ya updated.

[Havoc_online]

are these connecting pins in good shape on this and everything else on the board.

[Havoc_online]

LoL, for future reference, could you state that you have had aftermarket mods(on/off) done to the warp ;)

[srrdude]

i didnt tho.

[srrdude]

next thing... now ive got it spinning... how do i get the sensor to work...

[srrdude]

that component dohickey u showed me is really really hot. help.../

[Havoc_online]

the blue dial adjusts the sensor. as for the board being hot - make sure the wiring is done properly.

(plz try and use your sig once per page, you've used your 8 times this page- not trying to be a bug, just trying to save space);)

[srrdude]

its not the board itself thats hot its just that one upper left component that gets hot.

[Havoc_online]

I didnt mean for you to change your sig, but to try and disable it now and then.....

[srrdude]

i didnt like it ne ways. haha.. my supplier sucked so the store it closed for a while... ne who. what wiring would hafta be wrong for the thing to get hot like that.. i could smell it.

[srrdude]

i still need help.. how do i make it no hot?
like... what wires... and how should they be...

[srrdude]

it gradually gets hot when i turn it on.. cept it only takes bout a second to get very hot. that aint right..

[Havoc_online]

pm'd you.

[ShooterJM]

Ahhhh warp stopped working!!! Won't run even when hitting the load button.

I checked the batteries. There's no visable damage to any of the leads on the board. The jumpers appear to be in the correct location, the battery clip appears to have good soldered connections.

Right now I think I need a quick schematic of the board wiring. What's the polarity of the two wires (white and red) running directly to the motor? If I follow it correctly red is positive and white is negative. Is this correct? I'm just trying to figure out if my board is fried or if something else is going out.

I'm supposed to be in my first tourny next week so I'm hoping to have it all up and running. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!

[Havoc_online]

ya red is pos. white is neg.

as for looking to see if the board is fried, look closely at the board and you would probably be able to see where a connection burnt out.

[ShooterJM]

Interesting. Running 9 volts directly to the motor correctly won't cause the motor to spin. If I reverse the polarity (positive to negative) the warp spins fine, and in the correct direction. Yeah I looked pretty close, didn't have a magnifying lens, but I didn't see any discoloration, solder issues, popped leads or even any ESD damage. Any thoughts or should I just replace the board?

Right now I figure I can just run power directly to the motor and install a few switches to get me through the tournament, but I'm kinda curious as to what happened. Thanks for the quick response by the way.

[Havoc_online]

very interesting indeed, it appears I was wrong. If you look at the board, the red(pos.) connection from the battery is linked to the white(pos.) to the motor. However, if you look at the motor the red wire leads to the side of the motor that has a red mark over a "+" sign. That's what had me going but I never paid that much attention, I always just remembered what wires went where and how the motor was oriented by messing with so many of them, lol.

Hrmmmm..... anyway, your motor works, you have fresh batteries and a good clip with all leads intact. Jumpers dont matter, if you can't activate the warp by pushing the button, then somethings up with the board. If you can't see any visible damage anywhere then just buy a new board or hook up the power straight to the motor like you said and send me the board, I'll see if I can repair it for ya.

[xen_100]

nobody seemed to care

but just in case someone wants to do it. it does work quite well.

so I thought I would post it here.

http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/xen_100/warpfix1.jpg
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/xen_100/warpfix2.jpg

[ShooterJM]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
very interesting indeed, it appears I was wrong. If you look at the board, the red(pos.) connection from the battery is linked to the white(pos.) to the motor. However, if you look at the motor the red wire leads to the side of the motor that has a red mark over a "+" sign. That's what had me going but I never paid that much attention, I always just remembered what wires went where and how the motor was oriented by messing with so many of them, lol.

Hrmmmm..... anyway, your motor works, you have fresh batteries and a good clip with all leads intact. Jumpers dont matter, if you can't activate the warp by pushing the button, then somethings up with the board. If you can't see any visible damage anywhere then just buy a new board or hook up the power straight to the motor like you said and send me the board, I'll see if I can repair it for ya.

Yeah I'll do the switch thing for now. I'll pull the board out and bring it in to work. Get some better light, magnification, and some probes on there to see if I can figure out exactly what's puking on me. Thanks a lot for all the help man! Appreciate it!

[silenttype]

I cant read the diagram for the 12 volt warp

[Xero]

I see the I Frame walk through on www.airgun.com to hook up the warp, but is there a sheet for the e-mag?

[Havoc_online]

you mean the warp/Emag interface cable? It plugs into the center connection on the board.

[Xero]

NOOOOO!!!! It can't be that simple!!! :D

ahh well....there's always my cocker to give me problems :p

[ncsurfer00]

Well I just got a used warp today. I got an awesome deal on it because the wires connecting the power source to the board had to be soldered. Fixed those. Now I turn it on and it will only spin when i hit the button. I tried adjusting the sensativity but that did nothing. hElp!

[SocialD]

I'm just bought my first warp and I plan on using it this weekend. I have set it up on my old skool RT and I'm getting ready to set the sensitivity and dwell. I was reading an earlier post and I have a question. Am I supposed to lube the friction wheels before I use the warp? By lubing the wheels I mean rubbing the faces of the friction disks with something like mag oil.

Darrick

[JT2002]

ncsurfer00


go check the airgun site for the warp manual. the switches might be setup wrong. not the dwell ones, but the ones for teh sensor. theres like three sets of pins lined up like..
::
::
::

you need to go to the manual and see which way to set them

[Havoc_online]

SocialD - correct.:)

[JT2002]

or if your lazy like me you can just buy a oil based shell paintball and a half a case of those or more through it should do the job.

[impulseplayer]

Alright well i and instaling a Pro team warp feed onto my impulse. And i was tuning it and i had it set to the sensor part. So thats right correct? And then i was tunning it and i turned it all the way down to where the motor would just barely not spin(like all the way clockwise). and i would shoot and it still wouldnt spin. Whats wrong?

[RoadDawg]

I got a problem with my warp. Don't know the cause so I came to this thread. When I use "wet shells" System X balls, my warp flies but when I use "dry shells" PMI prems it has a hard time loading. What can I do to fix this? Oh by the way they are the same bore. So my question is What's the Dealio? My setup is like this Rico to warp, warp goes to bottom of h/r p/f on my minimag. I've included a pic for reference sakes. Oh and yes they are very nice sheets :D http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=573259

[JT2002]

you can use the oil for your mag and VERY lightly rub some onto the wheels to lubricate them. but in my case shooting a case of the "wet shells" through my warp worked well and have had no probs with Evil paint yet.

[Lesman]

Havoc,

I have an opportunity to buy a slightly used Warp (less than 6 hours of field time)for a great price, which a friend of mine bought new but doesn't like because he was breaking paint in the breach. He was using it on a new classic automag with a level 10 and an all american 2 pc barrel. We were shooting winter paint at CPX and it was about 35 degrees outside. When I looked at it I noticed that he had not lubed the discs and that he had the dwell jumpers all in the non functional positions. When he removed the Warp he didn't break any additional balls so it seems that the rest of his setup is okay. What do you think could be the issues? I plan to install this on my new RTPRO is there anything special I need to know concerning the install. How many dwell jumpers should I be using?

[Havoc_online]

impulseplayer just adjust the dial to the point where it spins reliably with each cycle.

RoadDawg you need to lube your friction disks with dry paint.

Lesman you pretty much answered your own question.:) lube the disks and set the dwell for about 1/4 turn(should be like two jumpers) you should be fine.

[Lesman]

Havoc,

Things are looking pretty good thanks for your input. I did notice that when I slipped the hose fitting on the end of my powerfeed that it is kind of loose. It takes little pressure to slide it on. Is this normal? It seems like it wouldn't be very durable in the field. Do you have any suggestions on how to snug up the fit?

[Havoc_online]

you bet, go over the first couple of posts in the first page.

use a short thin piece of friction tape(not even enough to wrap around the bottom of the powertube and that makes a big difference....

[Lesman]

Havoc,

Thanks for your help, I am heading out to Challenge Park this weekend to give the new warp a try.

[Mike Meeks]

I've got a really basic question. I've got two guns that I'm picking up warp feeds for, for my team. Mine is an RT pf hopper left and the other is a verticle feed minimag. Will I need to pick up the Pro Team 90* for each of these or will everything I need come from AGD? Is there anything else that I would need to pick up? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
mike

[JT2002]

dont hold me to this but it looks like you might have to make your own custom adapter for the 90* adapter to fit on the body. something like some sort of tubing just long enough to stick out of the vertical feed and for the 90* adapter to hold on to

[Mike Meeks]

Thanks for the info.

If I understand you correctly I will need to pick up the Pro Team 90* for both guns. Plus I may need to make an adaptor for the vert mini. Sound right?

[Koosh]

One quick question because i am such a bonehead...

I just got a warp, and while playing around with it, I hooked up a 9v and left it there for a while... I came back about 1 minute later and picked it up, forgeting that I hadn't put the batter cover on...

When the 9v fell it broke the negative lead off of the board. Looking at how I can solder it back on I realized that there isn't much room for play around there, so i was wondering what can be done about it?

Thanks

[Havoc_online]

Mike Meeks newer warps come with 90* adaptors already. you should be fine with just that unless the vert. mini has a bell style top which I doubt, in which case it's not too difficult to work around.

TheFlamingKoosh you may be able to take it to your local shop(provided someone there knows how to solder) if not your always welcome to send it to me.

[Yuji]

What is the optimum ball stack height for the warp when running 90* feed adapter? I broke my adapter tightening it and am considering just cutting it down along with my feed tube so that the feed hose is tight to the gun body. Don't want to do it if the a shorter ball stack is going to cause probs.

Heres a pic of where I would like the feed tube to connect to the 90* adapter.



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/pdfb559348fc0db29ac4decd1395295c8/fca5fa58.jpg

[Havoc_online]

between the 90* adaptor and the breech you should be good so long as you leave enough room for the plug to do it's job and the feedtube doesnt go too far in the adaptor.

[Yuji]

Well, in between me posting and you posting Havoc...I already did the dirty deed. IT's much tighter..could go about a 1/4" more but I'll wait and see. Thx for the help and I'll let you know how it works.



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/p5c3ea22ad6a08ebf75d76922bb8d04e1/fca5eab1.jpg

[Havoc_online]

cool. BTW Welcome to AO! :)

[JT2002]

is that a mayhem?:D

[Yuji]

Ummmm...no, it's a Tequila Sunrise Matrix.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid50/p6eb73edbd0181b6c37925ee5cc999c91/fcab5237.jpg

[Yuji]

Havoc, shall I remove these pix...being this is warp feed forum? Sorry mods

[Havoc_online]

whatever you'd like, no biggie. as long as it's warped!:p

[JT2002]

yuji slap a warp on that thing so i can look at it day and night:D . sorry for off topic but how do you like it? ive heard some not good things bout it. Anyways, BACK TO TOPICC!!!!!!!!!111

[Timmy215]

I just recieved a brand new warp feed. It worked when I but it on my gun and shot in my back yard and the first time that i went out to the feild. The second time that I went out to the field and but it on my gun it would only spin when i pressed the button and would not sense my guns vibration each time i shot. It will also spin constantly when i turn my sensitivity all the way up. Any ideas whats going on?

[Havoc_online]

you need to break in the carbon brushes on the motor. just let it run till a fresh battery dies.

then adjust your sensitivity(once mounted, also make sure everything is tight) to your markers recoil.

[johnnyringo]

I have my I-frame wired into my warp and just purchased the PTP 12v drop in kit. My question is when I put the kit on the warp feed it just keeps spining after the first shot and will not stop. I take the kit out it works fine. Any help would be great!

[Lesman]

Havoc,

I converted my warp to inteli feed per the directions on the AGD site. One thing that I noticed is that the gun still responds to the vibe sensor like when the warp gets bumped or something like that. I have the jumpers the way the directions show. What should I do? Is it going to be a problem during gameplay if the warp is receiving signals from the switch and the vibe sensor?

[Havoc_online]

johnnyringo how old of a warp is it? what kind of batteries? are you sure your jumpers are all in the proper place?

Lesman take out all the jumpers on the right set of pins, just leave the top(neg.) pins connected.

[johnnyringo]

havoc I jsut purchased the warp from paintball wizard. I was using duracell. I have both the top and the bottom jumpers on; on the right side of the warp board. Should I take the bottom off as well? I wonder if that was the problem!!

[Havoc_online]

intelifed - just leave the top jumper on.
as for it being a new warp, that may be it, you may need to break in the carbon brushes on the motor(see run-in)

[SkElL~ObIsSiS]

i just gopt a used warp and i thnk the previous owner took out the recoil sensor, can anyone point one out on a pic of a warp for me?

[Yuji]

Why would a brand new Warp that has seen some playing time run slow or not at all? It just doesn't turn as fast as my other warp. Both are new and have the proteam 12v mod. It will turn without balls but as soon as it's under load it turns very slow or not at all. Tried new batteries and checked the jumpers and still not working properly.

[1stdeadeye]

This thread is great. I was trying to get my warp set up on my X-Mag. Once I put everything together, I couldn't get my 90* adapter to fit my hose. I pushed and pushed. I was about to post, read this thread, and realized I left the Feed tube adapter on my R/T. Duh!

Question, what is the best way to cut the feed hose?

[Havoc_online]

SkElL~ObIsSiS The vibration sensor is a disk mounted on the shell(you can't miss it). You might try checking to see if your jumpers are set up properly and if they are, check your dial sensitivity. If nothing works, check that the board is connected to the vib. sensor(two springs) properly.

Yuji Remember that the warp needs to stay fed, keep paint in the hopper. Check your ballstack for restrictions(see if it feeds well without being connected to the body). Finally, hows the paint fit the friction disks?

1stdeadeye Glad the thread helped out! (Just use the sharpest razor you can find)

[silenttype]

warp exploded view
http://www.airgun.com?downloads/warpexploded1.pdf

[SkElL~ObIsSiS]

I just got a used warp and I cant get the thing to activate at all, I got an e-mag but am in the procces of making a link cable and just wanted to use the warp with the gun on vib, but when I set it to its most sensitive setting and slap the piss put of it nothing happenes???? im confused, where is my vibration sensor? is it missing? the jumpers are set on the bottom two in the vib. position

I can get it to spin with the white primer button but thats it...

[Yuji]

Well...heres my trix with my stealthy warp mod :D I'm still working on getting a smaller 45/4500 and a suitable drop forward but u get the picture, I also shortened up my warpfeed adapter and feed tube some more...what do you guys think :confused: I hope no one steals my idea and makes a bunch of $$$ :rolleyes:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/pcfa325ae25c925d5294dc82921040179/fca66ead.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/pa541dc09a9e87a836f42b721d9820586/fca2b0a9.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/p1f436d10c72420d4cf2fff367d53d090/fca66ea1.jpg

[ski]

That's definitely a unique setup. Not really my thing but I give lots of credit to you for the effort put into it, awesome = ).

Now on to my questions. I just got my 12v mod done to my pro-team warpfeed, running it on an Adrenalin Impulse. I have the issue with it constantly spinning so I'm going to look into a capacitor for it as suggested on this thread. However, just out of curiousity, how much work would it take to leave it running off of a 9v battery like it is "stock" and simply hooking up an on/off switch to it. Furthermore if I can't get this mess cleaned up how much do you charge to have the 12v mod, LED and on/off switch done Havoc? I consider myself fairly proficient, the wiring has not been an issue at all...getting everything to fit inside most definitely has been, hehe. With the LED, on/off switch and plus now a capacitor, I'm just not sure if I'll be able to get everything in there. Any help would be appreciated, thank you very much.

Mike
mailtank@comcast.net

[ski]

Ok...well I got a 100 uf capacitor and put it on the output side of the 12v reg and now it doesn't work at all...I take it off it won't stop spinning, I put it on it won't spin at all. Any advice would help, thanks = )

[Yuji]

I realize it looks unorthodox but the warp/halo feels more comfortable in this position and absolutely rocks when I run a remote. I obviously would prefer to run a tank on the gun..but until I get a lighter/smaller one i will make do with this. Thinking outside the box is sometimes a good thing :D We'll see in a couple of years how ball feeding products evolve...But I bet dollars to doughnuts that traditional hopper configurations are going to change drastically. I'm going to keep working on this project and will post pix when it's all done.

[Mike Meeks]

Well, I have both Warp Feed kits now and it looks like it should be pretty easy to put together and link to the inteliframes but I have two more questions.

1. I'm having a hard time getting my rev and the lower warp feed adaptor to fit in the warp. They both seem just a little to big. Would you recommend unscrewing the shell slightly inserting the piece and then tightening the screws back up or would this not be good for the warp? Otherwise should I just sand down the rev and the adaptor until they fit?

2. The Minimag I'm installing the warp on does have one of the old bell shaped verticle feed tubes. Can you recommend something to use as an adaptor for the 90 to attach to? I was thinking of cutting off the neck of an old VL 200 or finding something in the plumbing department that has the same dimensions.

[Just Me]

Howdy I just got my AGD warp feed and I have a couple or three of NOOB questions:1) after the run in period will the vib sensor settle down to a steady spot? as it goes right now I have to adjust it every time i want to feed balls correctly with each shot. 2) does the kit only come with 2 mounting screws? since I havent been running a drop forward or bottom line, I dont have an extra set of screws for the mounting plate. could you give me the specs on them(metric/standard adn what size) so I can try to get a couple more? 3) I am running a old school PF/Hopper left MAG and i dont have to worry about out shooting the warp or my revy but I want to get more battery life could you tell me how to set up a on/off switch inline with the paralell 9 volts?
Thanks
Just Me

[Havoc_online]

ok guys, most of the info is in the first couple of pages.

Remember - in order to transfer vibrations properly you need to have the warp mounted tight.

you want a tight fit with the revy and hose so dont sand it(you dont want it falling off do you?)

[Havoc_online]

warp mod pricing.
by popular demand.

Ok, I probably mentioned this before but I really recommend a "big cell" mod over the 12v mod but since it's your warp it's your choice. Your not going to be pulling anywhere close to what a 12v warp can feed at, it's loud, runs through batteries quicker(It doesnt hold 12v for too long). It can still only really feed as fast as your hopper so to really take advantage of it, you'd have to run a HALO B.

The bigcell mod uses 2 9v's to make the battery last twice as long @9v. It'll feed at about 16-17bps. Again, assuming you have a hopper that could keep up. The batteries last months(if you use the switch properly).

The l.e.d. I can do but I also dont recommend cause it draws needed power from the batteries. It'll slow down the warp and run through batteries quicker. Again, it's your choice.

here are my prices.

on/off - $10
big cell - $15
on/off w/ bigcell - $20
12v mod - $20
12v w/ on/off - $25
l.e.d. - add $4
fix broken warp - case by case basis - pm me.

You MUST also include insured return shipping.

[tb-303]

ok, ok, ok i'm lazy. but i started to look through the posts and wasn't sure what i was to look out for.
i was given a warp feed yesterday and i want to put it on my z-gripped RT. and i don't really know how to go about it. it's a 9v warp and it doesn't have a sensor in it(apparently)
help! what do i need to do?
thx in advance.
teebs

[Havoc_online]

If your warp doesnt have THIS (http://store.airgun.com/agdprod/images/parts/sensor_med.jpg) mounted on the shell then you need to send it in for a new sensor. You'd have to intelifeed it to have it work otherwise(which is pretty tuff to do on a Zgrip).

[tb-303]

no mate, i don't have one of those. the previous owner had the z warped. i know how to do it now but i dunno where the micro switch thing would go.

teebs

[Havoc_online]

the Zgrip is not designed to be intellifed, it needs to be modified in order to pull it off. That or you can buy an Iframe (http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=11&CATID=5)

[tb-303]

i think i've done it.i dunno what a normal z-grip looks like from the top(only seen mine) but mine has been well and truly milled in the part where the seer would sit. it's an ex storm gun and has been well and truly Bonich and Sosta'd. now all i gotta do is try it!will post a photo if i can get to a digi camera to show you that it doesn't seem to be a run of the mill z-grip.

teebs

[Lesman]

Havoc,

Do you have details on how to do the big cell mod? Do you just put 2 nine volts in parallel? Do you have a schematic/parts list? My warp seems to be kind of a hog on batteries!

[Havoc_online]

pm'd you.

[WARPED1]

Originally posted by minion450
Yeah the looks kinda had me going. I thought they were faster though. oh well a halo is my next perchase when my rt pro comes in
An eVLution 2 does 17bps, a HALO B does 22. Now,which one is faster?:p

[Yuji]

I'm going to test a egg II against my Halo B tomorrow.

[Blurry]

I bought this warp from an AO member he had it setup for intellifeed, but now i have a z and it isnt milled for the intellifeed. so now i have to set it up for vibration it has the sensor i set up the jumpers as shown in the manual and i have been playing with that blue thing from hell to high water cant get it to do anything in vibration is there supposed to be some wires or something making contact on the sensor body or what i am playing in a tourney this saturday and really want use this warp havoc please help me

[JT2002]

try looking for this without taking your whole warp apart.
try looking into the area where the board is from the right side when u hold the warp with the board facing you. the board compartment, look in the right side where its clear, do you see any sorts of springs in there under the board? the vib sensor needs these springs for the connection to be made with the board for vib to work. im pretty sure bout this (right havoc?)

w00t just realized senior member! :cool:

[Blurry]

what can i use from something to substitute got this used so they probably got lost by the dude i bought it from

how many are there

[JT2002]

yeah, um ask havoc, i know i almost lost mine when i had to un screw teh board for a min

[Blurry]

could anyone tell me how many springs are in there or where they are located at and where i could get more approximate size etc.

[JT2002]

just looked at my warp, im pretty sure theres only 1 small spring located at teh bottom right corner of the board. look for something like a small little bit of molded plastic there what was made to hold it, nothing big though, and then you should see i think some sort of metal contact on teh board with a little something sticking out of the middle for the spring to sit over.
as for spring size im really not sure. its just a real small simple spring, its not made to push with much force, just enought to keep good contact with board. and its not very wide at all, probably only like no more than 3 mm or so (just guessing) good luck!

[Havoc_online]

Blurry - If you PM me your address I can overnight you the springs. You'd have to pay shipping though. time counts. if I dont get your pm by 4pm central time thursday it'll be too late to overnight it usps in time.

it's two springs that contact the vib sensor to the board.

(thx for the help JT)

sorry I havent been on the boards much lately....

[JT2002]

anytime,
oh btw im trying to send my warp this week, just kinda hard getting box and stuff, plus i played last weekend, but soon!
JT

[1stdeadeye]

Pmed you regarding repair request. I can overnight it tomorrow if it's okay with you.

Thanks

[Havoc_online]

both of you - no prob :) :) :)

[WARPED1]

Ok, this kid wants to sell me his warp, he says the vibration sensor doesn't work. But it works if intellifed.
Any clue what this would be? Could it need new jumpers?

[punkerx1]

haha, warped i said that?? i think i said 'it doesnt work to good' or something, it works perfectly, i just dont like the vibration sensor because it doesnt work as well as if it were intellied..hehe:p

[SkElL~ObIsSiS]

when im firing my e-mag wich is linked to my warp, it seems like it dosent fill up my p/f tube all the way..... and then when i get on it it will chop...

[WARPED1]

Originally posted by punkerx1
haha, warped i said that?? i think i said 'it doesnt work to good' or something, it works perfectly, i just dont like the vibration sensor because it doesnt work as well as if it were intellied..hehe:p
No, no, a second warp I'm buying, not yours bro!

[JT2002]

Originally posted by SkElL~ObIsSiS
when im firing my e-mag wich is linked to my warp, it seems like it dosent fill up my p/f tube all the way..... and then when i get on it it will chop...
first fix warp, try new battery, the MAKE SURE u get lvl 10. trust me bro is the best thing for a mag, had one and its amazing

[JT2002]

oh btw havoc pmd you

[Havoc_online]

WARPED1 case by case - could be a number of things, you could send it to me for repair if anythings wrong with it.

SkElL~ObIsSiS yes, make sure you have fresh batteries as JT said, also lube your friction disks and check your dwell time(should be 1/4 turn)

[Strider]

Havoc, I have a warp that isn't sensing the vibration from my EMag. After playing with it for a while, I think my potentiometer isn't working. Turning it in all different directions makes no difference on how sensitive a love tap is required to get it to spin. On the other hand, it WILL sense a hard tap and spin normal, just not the kind my emag makes. :)

(For reference, I have a working Warp in front of me for settings and reference sake)

Is this a part I could pick up at a store and resolder on? Or does this mean I need a whole new board?

[Havoc_online]

try replacing your board contact springs.

[WARPED1]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
WARPED1 case by case - could be a number of things, you could send it to me for repair if anythings wrong with it.

SkElL~ObIsSiS yes, make sure you have fresh batteries as JT said, also lube your friction disks and check your dwell time(should be 1/4 turn) Cool, if I get it, I'll do that.

[1stdeadeye]

Got mine back.

Thanks for the quick turn around! I'll let you know how it works next weekend!

Looks great though!:D

[Strider]

Originally posted by Havoc_online
try replacing your board contact springs.
I've swapped them out with a friends springs, without change...

[Svenmac]

Do you know if there is a postive or negative trigger for the ebalde? I am getting a warp and would like to run it off of the trigger instead of the recoil. I have heard the sensor is tricky to set on Autocockers. Is this true?


Thanks

[askman]

Well, I bought a used warp/revvy combo. it was advertised as having 12v mod and added a extra connector, so you can run the revvy off of the same switch. (the revvy was nothing more than servo motor and casing)

Well, whoever put it together was an idiot and did not know how to solder, etc. It did not work when I got it. I basically unhooked everything and resoldered/heatshrink wrapped everything and replace the reg with brand new 7812C voltage reg. (It had 7812a, but lead broke on it when I took it off) After rewire, I first turn it on, it will turn on continuously, but when I turn the sensitivity down, it was working fine.(bit marginal, but usable)

Now, I hooked up the revvy to the warp, and once warp starts on, it would not stop stop. When I minimize the sensitivity, it almost works until it turns on again. I added .1uf cap to the output(I actually soldered the .1uf cap across the vcc/gnd of the warp control board). This fix the problem. .1uf is recommended for transient voltage conditioning of regulator output.(also recommended in the datasheet)

So, I have a warp that also runs the revvy. It works really well. probably eat through battery though, so I will probably use NiMH rechargeable.

hope this help others, who is thinking of doing the same mod.

[WARPED1]

How do I attach this thing? I got the plate and 2 screws, do I need two more? I wanna put the plate inbetween my KAPP drop and grip. The screws that came with it are not long enough.

[JT2002]

yeah its fine/ u only need the 2 screws for the bottom of the grip, which u have. to attach, put the plate inbetween the drop and your grip, with the plate angles towards the front of the gun. then screw in everything, the plate and the drop.also for custom adjusting you can losen the screws a little and teh plate can be slid a little foward and back in angle. then after that take the two small screws for the top of the warp that came with it, align the slots for the screw on the warp with the holes in the plate, then put the screws through the top side of the plate and tighten them into the warp. by losening them a little the warps angle can also be adjusted. also make sure you know how to adjust sensitivity unless you are using intellifeed. HAVE FUN with your new warp!

also if u would like instructional pics just ask and ill wip something together 4 u

[WARPED1]

I gotta run to Home Depot to get new screws.:) thanks guy!

[JT2002]

ok. if they are the ones that connect the warp to the bar make sure there not longer than about 1/2 inch