PDA

View Full Version : retro valve problem



magman187
09-19-2002, 08:08 PM
I installed my new retro valve today and upon gassing up the marker it began to leak down the barrel, so I looked to the tiny single sheet of paper that they call instructions
and under the "leaking down the barrel" section it says to move to a thinner spacer which would have been the .215 spacer so when that didn't work I proceeded to try every spacer that came in the kit when that didn't work I called AGD and talked to a tech, he ran me through a couple of tests that did not solve the problem. he asked me what type of air system I was using I said it was a 68 ci 4500 crossfire and he told me that I may need to put a slide check inline because the tank wasn't gassing up the trigger sear fast enough to catch the bolt. so we exchange some information and Iwas going to send in the marker for repair. when I layed both valves next to each other, my stock valve which I have never had problems with and the retro valve I noticed one difference other than some machining.... here's my question

between the bolt and valves on both valves their are urethane bumpers the one on retro valve was smaller in diameter than the one on the older valve and it also seemed to be thicker so I switched the old bumper "blue in color" to the new valve and reassembled the marker and gassed it up it seemed to fix the problem but is this a correct repair. has anyone else done this please let me know...
also maybe I got caught up in all the retro hype but after pulling the trigger a few times i noticed very little diference between my old valve and the retro one can someone please tell me what the benefit of a retro valve is because I couldnt tell the difference or maybe thier is something wrong with my gun.

Havoc_online
09-19-2002, 09:48 PM
take the blue bumper off and put the other one back on. If it's a new valve, take the barrel off and oil the valve throughly(espescially the on/off).

Bulldog
09-19-2002, 11:12 PM
The retro valve's a tad lighter than the standard valve, plus it eliminates shootdown. Some people never fire all that fast, so they don't notice a differance when they "go retro".

Plus the whole reactive trigger aspect too.

EnW
09-19-2002, 11:54 PM
The blue bumper you used for the retro valve will cause the bolt to bounce more and could lead to a broken sear tip. Put the clear one back on...the bumper shouldn't be the problem.

athomas
09-20-2002, 07:34 AM
Put the proper bumper back on first.

Take your retro valve on/off assembly out and put plenty of oil on the o-rings. Do the same with the power tube o-rings. Put the shortest power tube spacer in. Gas up the gun with the trigger pulled in. Quickly release the trigger and pull a few shots off. You may have to turn up the velocity to get it to work properly.

New retro valves need to have the o-rings broken in or seated. The extra oil helps create a seal until the o-rings seat themselves.

Once you get it working, put in the longest power tube spacer that does not leak down the barrel.

Hope this helps.

magman187
09-20-2002, 04:00 PM
thank you guys for your help and ideas after I posted the previous message I put both sear assemblies together and notice that when youd look down the top of the new one it was slightly bent so I straightened it out and the valve worked fine.

Telefragged
09-20-2002, 07:15 PM
What type of tank are you using? If you've got a screw in, or something with a slower on-off you may want to try holding the bolt back with a squeegee until the valve seats.