new or used

[njhotmail]

im a first time buyer for a mag (most likely auto) and im wondering if i should buy a new gun and upgrade it how i want to or buy a previously used gun already upgraded

also which are good sites to use to upgrade mags

[rjvemt1]

the answer to your question depends on a few things.

first, how much money are you looking to spend right off the bat? ther are a few pb sites that sell mag 'packages' that are a very good starting place for the first time mag owner (paintballgear.com).

second, do you know enough about the different barrell and air systems(n2 versus co2) to make an informed decision at this time or would a 'no-frills' mag be o.k. for now while you took some time to learn about the upgrades that are available for mags.

i bought my classic mag used for 400$ with a centerflag hyperflow 301 nitro trank, but this is my third mag and i already knew where i was gonna go with it and since then ive added a hyperframe(electronic trigger) and a warp feed and will put a level 10 in it next.

all im sayin is start of slow a learn what you can about available upgrades before you dump a bunch off money into something that you find doesnt suit your needs in 6 months to a year.

[DarkPhoenix]

Well, I would say you have three basic types of automags, or just mags for short. The first is the Classic Mag, it is the cheapest and runs on either CO2 or HPA. Usually the classic mag comes without a barrel and bottomline set-up but many of the online stores market them in bundles, for convenience. There are many upgrades for the 68 Classic.

The second, middle grade choice is the RT Pro. More expensive than the 68 Classic and a couple of hundred dollars less than the E-mag, the RT Pro comes readilly equipped with the RT valve, which is the fastest cycling paintball valve on the market today. The RT Pro only runs on HPA or N2. Newer versions of the RT Pro also come with the Intelliframe, AGD's double trigger 45-style grip frame, stock. The RT Pro comes with a barrel and bottomline set-up, making it ready to go out of the box, just add air.

At the high end of the spectrum, you have the E-mag. The E-mag is Airgun Design's electronic marker, merging the power of the RT valve with electronic firing capabilities. The E-mag has three basic firing modes: 1) Electronic, which is self explanatory; 2) Hybrid, where the gun is fired electronically but the trigger has the reactive kick of an RT (personally, my favorite mode); and 3) Manual, should the E-mags electronics fail, a flip of the switch gives you the ability to fire the gun like a regular RT Pro. AGD has capped the maximum electronic rate of fire of the E-mag at 16bps and does not come with automatic fire or turbo modes. The E-mag also has a 3 and 6 round burst fire, which are capped at a max speed of 9bps. The E-mag, like the RT Pro, comes with a barrel and bottomline adapter, so add air and your ready to go.

There are many versions of each gun, which include the hopper orientation (Standard(only on 68 Classic), Powerfeed H/L or H/R, Centerfeed, and Warpfeed bodies, which we'll get to), body colors (grey and teflon black, for the 68 Classic, and Polished (chrome) or Teflon Black bodies for the RT Pro and E-mag.

The Warpfeed is AGD's positive feed system, forcing paintballs into the gun's breach, decreasing chops and increasing rate of fire. The warpfeed can be used on almost any paintball marker and AGD also has warpfeed bodies available for their markers to fully exploit the Warpfeed's capabilities.

Besides the barrel, the best upgrades for any AGD marker come from AGD itself. Any aftermarket upgrades not from AGD may cause malfunction or harm to your marker, due to the higher tolerances in all AGD markers. Upgrades include: 1) Level 10 Bolt kit, which reduces the marker's ability to chop paint, at the cost of slightly higher gas consumption; 2) the Intelliframe grip, AGD's 45-style double-trigger frame, which comes with the choice of either a groove or blade trigger, and has mounting points inside the grip for components to link your warpfeed and/or loader to your trigger to allow for more reliable feeding; 3) RT valve, for the 68 Classic marker, has a faster recharge rate than any other valve on the marker allowing for faster rates of fire. The RT valve also has the added benefit of a trigger kick, which returns the trigger at twice the force used to pull, also allowing for increased rates of fire.

I must apologize for my exceptionally long post and I hope I answered your questions.

[someVWkid]

if your starting off you cant really go wrong with a used mag. if u ever have any problems you can always ask sumone cuz it turns out that mags are as old as time and someone, if not everyone, knows sumthin about them. they dont really wear much from use (aside from scratches) so they'll function as good as ever (my used valve certainly did). just dont go cheap and get a standard feed body and/or co2. all you really need to have it shoot fine is HPA and a 12V revvy. other upgrades (level10, barrel, aftermarket gripframe, RT) can wait.

[athomas]

The beauty of a mag is that a used mag is just as good as a new mag. They never wear out except for a few replaceable parts. I would say get a used mag to start. That way you can get more options for less money until you decide what you really want.

[ALF702]

Im new to mags myself.. I had been using spyders for long time already.. but I got a used mag number 55XXX from someone on e-bay for like $150. it was a 68 classic powerfeed, hopper left. it shot great once I got it, and even better after changing o-rings and reg seat.
but its true, mags age,, but never die.