A Couple Of 68 classic questions(sp)

[confedman75]

ok do to certain work issues, i can no longer afford the sweet looking xmag with the flame paintjob. so now that i have decided to get myself a 68 classic, i need to know what parts are NEEDED for it to shoot and what my first couple of upgrades should be, note im also getting 120$ dollars for xmas money. I was thinking of this
Needed
1.Teardrop(60$)
2.Macroline kit(11$)
3.already have halo B
4. already getting Flatline

Wanted
1.LX (??$)
2.dye stickies(10$)
3.later on, warp feed
4. later on, intellifeed.

[HoppysMag]

ok dye stickys wont fit on the stock frame, LV 10 is like 85$+ shipping now. i suggest the intelli b4 warp... and thats all i got to say sounds like itl be sweet setup:D

[dropkick1]

yeah, def an i-frame before anything and then lvl 10.

ken

[magman007]

ok ,how much do you have to spend? ad did you purchase the marker already? if not, you should get the tkp package from action village. Get the powerfeed. It will come with a barrel, macro hookups and all. and its relatively cheep. THen you can buy your drop, intelliframe, and a level 10. and if you get your intelliframe, you get your stickies already. Personally, id say level 10 before intelli. but thats up to you. If you give us your amount to spend, we can work out the best package for you

[Kevmaster]

i say LX before IFrame

[Xerces]

i wouldnt get LX, unless you're having problems with chopping.

[rikkter]

Originally posted by Xerces
i wouldnt get LX, unless you're having problems with chopping.

:eek: someone who thinks rationale!(sp)

i say get the intelli first. then what x said, if you have problems with chopping, then first, learn your trigger little more if your short stroking, then get level 10.
this is what i did for my self.

intelli
warp
might get level 10

[digitard]

I was in the same boat as you 2 months ago, I had an almost completely stock 68 Classic and I started upgrading it (i even had a 12oz remote CO2 tank).

Here's what I recommend:
1) HPA ... shoot constant, go Compressed Air first if you haven't already
2) Intelliframe
3) XValve: The ReTro valve is basically the same valve system as whats used in the XMag..... the XValve is the ReTro w/ the lighter aluminum body and it already includes the Level 10 built in. In a few weeks you can take advantage of the valve replacement program through AGD and get it for a reduced price by sending in your old valve. If you cant afford it then try to find a used ReTro valve in the classifieds and see what you can work out .... dont get the Level 10 by itself unless your chopping balls right now, but if you want to shoot fast just go XValve and get the best valve and level 10 already included.

After that with your Halo B! you should be set ... those 3 components will turn your gun (for the most part) into an RT.

WARP is cool, but with the HALO B you wont get much benefit to BPS cause its quick, BUT you will lose the hopper from the top of the gun, so if you want a more compact (for quick shots) setup then WARP is great, but it adds a lil weight.

But if you haven't go Compressed Air right away, that was the single best investment on my gun ... I can fire a longer string w/o drop off and I dont shoot hot.

Sincerely
Dave

[confedman75]

i shoot right handed what power feed do i want? and for the flatline nitro tank am i going to need a thread or nipple protectors?

[digitard]

If your right handed you want Powerfeed Left ....

Check out my pic below ... I'm right handed, so I use powerfeed left.

Sincerely,
Dave K

[darklord]

Definitely get an I-Frame before a LX. Seeing how you have a HALO B, don't bother with a LX unless you have severe problems with chopping paint. Try out a warp if you can first. I bought one a few months ago and tried it for a few games, and hated it! Warps aren't for everyone. If you slap on an I-Frame and have no problems chopping, try to save for an X-valve.

[confedman75]

no one has answered me about thread and nipple protectors for the flatline, are they needed?

[HoppysMag]

thread no, nipple always. tank cover too i suggest a dye rhino cover

[confedman75]

nah im getting a red redz, with a red redz condum

[magman007]

i also strongly reccomend the dye, there are olny a few i have seen surpass it, and i cannot find them any where. IT is much better than the reds,that is fo sho

[confedman75]

the dye one isnt PURE red, when i have the money for my xmag im stripping my 68 and keeping it as a backup, so i need an ALL PURE red setup

[HoppysMag]

Originally posted by confedman75
the dye one isnt PURE red, when i have the money for my xmag im stripping my 68 and keeping it as a backup, so i need an ALL PURE red setup

really will you marker stop funstioning if its not red? ya thats what i thought...:rolleyes: im sure the redz ones are good quality but dont sacrifice intergrity of the tank for a cheap all red cover that looks good.

[confedman75]

its just that i want an army style looking one, picture armys mag with a black bottle cover with a few red lines, it kinda then just makes the whole thing looks bad,

[magman007]

bah, trust me, the dye tank is worth it, it isnt worth scarificing the risk with a crapy tank cover!


also, please post your sig once per thread, it is really annoying when you post it over and over again

[confedman75]

sorry

[darklord]

I have a DYE tank cover, and they're pretty good. But keep in mind the sole purpose of a tank cover is to prevent minor scratches on the tank, not deep wounds. I slipped and fell on a rock in a brush game once, and it resulted in a gash in my n2 tank, even with a tank cover. Just a warning if you're playing in the woods.... a Redz or a DYE, it won't matter if your tank is pitted against a rock. :(