what does a pro connect consist of?

[warpfeedmod]

I have access to alot (and I mean ALOT) of air fittings and whatnot through my line of work, a friend is having the level 10 holding the air problem and instead of buying a pro connect I was considering getting some parts from work and building my own sort of pro-connect.

From the posts I've searched through it seems to be a sort of quick disconnect? Or is there more to it then that?

[Brak]

i have a pro connect and it seems like a fancy male/female quick disconnect (slide check), except instead of sliding the parts together, a little button disconnects them.

[EsPo]

it is a QD and slide check all in one. it is like a QD but degasses the gun when you undo it.

[warpfeedmod]

okay so ill want some SS fittings that'll basically release whatever pressure is in the lines as well as disconnect the two parts..

ill see what I can do.

How much do proconnects usually go for? I see paintballgear has one for $59..

I'm just wondering 'cuz if it's more then I can get the parts for it obviously won't be worth it.

edit: Oh yeah what size is the SS hose fittings that it should use? All I've got is macro/micro on my markers.

Thanks for the input!

[Kevmaster]

my store sells them for $40 each

[PsychoBaller]

I want Stabuli to make their ProCOnnect model 3s again... all the ones that are out for the last 2-3 years are the Model 4s, mad tiny, restrict flow a bit more cause they are narrower....

I gots two of the oldschool PC 3s, mad nice, madddd.....

heh
~da baller

[Mossman]

Originally posted by warpfeedmod
okay so ill want some SS fittings that'll basically release whatever pressure is in the lines as well as disconnect the two parts..

ill see what I can do.

How much do proconnects usually go for? I see paintballgear has one for $59..

I'm just wondering 'cuz if it's more then I can get the parts for it obviously won't be worth it.

edit: Oh yeah what size is the SS hose fittings that it should use? All I've got is macro/micro on my markers.

Thanks for the input!

Not exactly. It holds the air in the female side, and only lets the air out the male side. This is great if you have a tank w/o an On/off, like a raptor, so instead of adjusting down every time just leave it how you like it and let the pro connect hold the air.

[warpfeedmod]

Originally posted by Mossman


Not exactly. It holds the air in the female side, and only lets the air out the male side. This is great if you have a tank w/o an On/off, like a raptor, so instead of adjusting down every time just leave it how you like it and let the pro connect hold the air.


okay so the marker side releases the air, the tank side holds it back. Makes sense otherwise you'ld loose all the air in the tank.

okay ill check for some fittings here. any ideas what size or is it all pretty much standard? And you want something high-flow too.

[Mossman]

Umm...no clue on the size. All I can tell you is that all the threads you're gonna work with are 1/8" NPT, but I have no idea what the fittings you're gonna use to maybe get this to work are.
You're on your own on this one :)

As for high flow, ya, it cant hurt. Microline doesnt really restrict flow, and its some skinny stuff, you can judge the interior passages of the fittings with the ID of microline, if its close you most likely wont have a problem.

[xen_100]

one thing people haven't mentioned yet. the part that is on the the tank side. seals off the airway when it is disconnected. so it doesn't degass all the airlines when you disconnect it.

go here and you can still get the RBE03. both parts cost about $25.

http://www.staubli.com/web/coupling/division.nsf

just click on "products" then "compressed air"

[warpfeedmod]

gotcha ill see what i can do. Thanks for the input all!

[SlartyBartFast]

This is one thing that really worries me about paintball products and setups. Few seem to respect the manufacturers specifications and safety data.

The Staubli site for example lists the maximum working pressure as 50 bar which is 725 psi. Most tanks for Automags are 850psi and some run higher for more reactiveness.

I'm amazed there aren't more serious acidents with the number of homebrew systems and repackaged parts not meant for high pressure use.

[xen_100]

I agree, that you should never exceed the manufactures spec. But that is working pressure. burst perssure is 4X that

[SlartyBartFast]

Originally posted by xen_100
I agree, that you should never exceed the manufactures spec. But that is working pressure. burst perssure is 4X that

Really? And wiil the manufacturer back up its product if it fails after repeated over-pressurisation? Where does it say 4X?

These numbers aren't just pulled out of a hat. They are designed and tested under strict health and safety reglementation.

Just because it didn't burst or leak, doesn't mean that it didn't deform or degrade after being overpressurized.

Take tanks for example. The Hydrotesting involves overpressuising the tank and measuring the deformation afterwards. Why can you only do the test so many times? Because each test weakens the tank.

Same holds true for all presssure systems.

[xen_100]

that is pretty much an industry standard. they have to have a safty margin. now that is not to asy that is would not start to leak or cause unwanted side effects if you run it higher than the recommended pressure. it just wont cause catastrophic failure

[warpfeedmod]

well alot of the parts here are for autmotive air couplings (semis, etc) as well as we have high-pressure ones. I'll see what I can get but the lowest one we've got I think is rated at 1000psi, at least thats what our engineering guy told me.. I'll be able to find out for sure when I bring in some SS hose tomorrow...

Hey if I can get this stuff cheap would anyone want to "test" it for me? Maybe I can sell them pretty inexpensive instead of everyone spending $40+ for em.