Move on? or Fight the good Fight?

[joeyjoe367]

Time to consult AO.

I've been a warp user for more than 8 months now, and I absolutly love the low profile, reliable loading, and weird looks I get from it, but I recently got an 88cui 4500 PSI Max-Flow tank. You can just guess at how bulky my RTP is starting to get.

I'm also having issues with the warp blocking my fill-nipples and gauges, especially if I'm working with a smaller drop-forward.

Honestly, I'm not in the best shape either, so lugging around a 10 lb gun isn't the most appealing thing for me.

RetroEclipseMan has a sweet setup with a no-rise body that I'm really starting to like, but I really don't know if I can play with a hopper up in the air anymore. I played a few games with my brother's old 'mag and it just felt weird, and off-balance with the hopper up top.

I'm seriously considering selling off EVERYTHING, except the gun itself, and re-setting up my gun the way I see fit. Hopefully, it would involve a warp-feed again, but I'm kinda in a lose-lose situation. Not liking the bulkiness/weight, but not wanting the hopper in the air either.

Maybe go for a:

No-rise + Halo + Diff Air System

Keep the Warp + diff Air System

My current setup is:
LvL 10 RTP, Warp, 9v Revolution, 88cui 4500 PSI Max-Flow, big-*** drop forward.

Any suggestions, oppinions, or critisizms? Any insight in something I haven't considered would be great. Please no "warp sucks" or "get an x-mag" type comments.

thx.

[PsychoBaller]

I'm using a Halo B now on my SFL (lowrise neck).... but its kinda top heavy I feel... was thinking about getting a warp....

if its a red PTP warp... and u ever decide on selling it... ill trade ya my black HaloB for it..

~da "not reall insightful" baller

[joeyjoe367]

No, it happens to be a clear one.

[Jonesie]

Hey Joe,
See if you can swap the Max Flo for a 68 or 88/4500 Flatline. I run a warp with my 68/3000 Flatline and put 90* elbows on the guages. Works like a charm.

Not to mention the fact that the Flatline is as nice as, if not nicer than the Flo. Then you get to keep your Warp, smoething I hope I'llnever have to live without!

Later ~ Jonesie

[cledford]

Dude, I feel you pain -I have had the same problems as you. I can tell you this - after playing with a Warp, you will HATE going back. I haven't been able to use mine (due to lack of interface cable - another LONG story) on my current main marker, an AKA Viking. I am currently running a clear HALO-B. I hate it! 1 out of every 2 times I'm eliminated is a hopper hit and the gun is top heavy to all get out.

On the other hand, I stopped playing with the Warped Emag altogether due to the weight. I put the warp on my Timmy (which is a VERY light gun) and don't notice the difference - but really got sick of the weight on the Emag - so feel your pain there. (I'm concerned about the Viking with Warp also, it's no light marker it's self.)

I also suffered with the Max-Flo issue. Which model do you have? The newer or older? The older was a REAL pain with a warp - because the fill nipple was on the side facing the warp and couldn't be moved. It was bad enough that you couldn't see the HP gauge. (This was on a Shocker) Anyhow I bought the new style manifold from SP ($90 installed) and replaced the old manifold on my 88ci Max-Flo. (The older reg can be used on either) This allows 2 things - a fill nipple on the right side of the gun (not blocked by warp) and the rail attachment method. Using the rail to attached the system is the best, because I replaced the hex head set screws with thumb screws purchased at the local hardware store (I can't remember the thread - but it is VERY common). This allows a 5 second loosening of the system which allows it to be quickly removed (easier to fill) or slide back enough to at least check out the gauge. It isn't something you will do in a game - but is still much more helpful then the older system.

All in all, I don't think you'll be happy moving back from the warp. The field of view, the relocation of the hopper, the lower center of gravity, and the sense of "invisibility" you have on the field (Ever notice how if people don't see a hopper, then you don't exist?) more then make up for the weight - but it is a toss up depending on the gun. In my case I went with a no-rise Emag body but am no happier with it. I love the light, warped Timmy best - I just am unhappy with it's durability. I wish I could find a gun with the craftsmanship of the Emag or Viking, and weight of the Timmy. Hang on a sec, could it be the Xmag? :)

Hope this rambling helps,

-Calvin

[Emagster]

well, this is coming from a front player who used to swear by the warp feed until about 4 weeks ago. if you dont move around alot and stay stationary most of the time then the warp is a great thing, but FOR ME i found that a vert feed is alot less weight, easier to move around with and doesn't get in my way as much. for a front player i like vert much better then warp...but thats just me.

[RetroEclipseMan]

Dude I say if you're gonna stick with the same air system then go with a no-rise body which is nothing like the powerfeed body once you play a game with it. I wouldn't really worry about a halo b right now unless you're gonna go for an emag. I played all saturday with Kory's evo 2 and tried the whole time to get the level 10 to kick in but it kept up fine, even fanning it as fast as we could. And with the new stye neck on those things plus the the no-rise body it is almost perfectly balanced and with the way i hold my gun the hopper barely clears the top of my mask.

Hey Cledford. When you say you replaced the manifold on your old maxflow what did you mean by that? Do you mean the bottom part of the old styld maxflow or did you pay the $90 for a whole new reg? I was just curious cause that sounds like a pretty good deal if it's for the whole reg?

[joeyjoe367]

Cledford,

I have the older style max-flow regulator, however I don't have a problem with the fill-nipple being in the way of the warp.

The 88 CUI tank on the max-flow is the "long" style tank, so I have to use an uber-long drop forward. It actually puts the manifold so far forward, that it clears the warp feed. I was quite surprised. It 'still gives me enough tank to shoulder the gun, and not have a hopper where my nose should be.

Jonsie: 90* elbows for the guages!?!? That's a GREAT Idea!!! I wish I had thought of that when I had my 68/3000 Flatline (traded for the maxy).

...could you put a 90* elbow on a fill nipple? that would make things REALLY easy, if you had my simmilar warp-blocking-the-fill-nipple problem like I had.

Hmm... Well, I think I'm going to make my decision this saturday. I'll have to play a game or two with your No-Rise, Brandon, and see how I like it. I think I'll set my gun up so that I'll play with just a hopper-right power-feed, but be able to switch to warp fairly quickly. Mind if I borrow that extra 12v Revvie you got? I don't really feel like using my hopper, and leaving the warp-hose stuck in there so that paint doesn't fall out of my drilled hoppe :)

I really appreciate all the feedback guys. Hopefully, I'll be able to make a decision soon.

*EDIT* Cledford, can you post some pics of your maxy setup?

[RetroEclipseMan]

Yeah dude, you can definately use my gun for a game or two. I'd still like to try out the warp setup since I haven't gotten a chance to try it. You'll have to go easy on it though since I gotta actually use my revy on it and not the evo 2 since kory just got his new imp to use it on.

BTW, what drop you got on your gun right now? Is it the old smart parts one?

[Jonesie]

Hey Joe,
I don't see why you couldn't put an elbow on your fill nipple. Seems like it would work.

Good Luck ~ Jonesie

[joeyjoe367]

No, it's an older one I had on my origeonal 'mag. it's like a NWPP "spoon" drop, but without the whole on-off assy. about 6 or 7" long, and drops about an inch and a half. It's PERFECT for the maxy.

[joeyjoe367]

Originally posted by Jonesie
Hey Joe,
I don't see why you couldn't put an elbow on your fill nipple. Seems like it would work.

Good Luck ~ Jonesie

'thing is, you're filling 4500 PSI... Teflon tape wouldn't cut it there, would it? I'd think that loc-tite would be necessary.

Did you just use a plain' ol 90* and teflon tape to your HP guage? I believe there's 4500 PSI going into that inlet, right?

[hardr0ck68]

keep the warp, cut some weight, i say drop the 9vt revy for a r2k, the weight nothing (there also made from about $10 in parts, but they do the job just fine!!) switch to a lighter air system, i would say 68/45 flatline or a nitroducks new x-tank thing...but the maxy is ALOT of weight and quite a bit of maintance. and pull off any sightrails or un-needed bulk...im sure you can drop 3-4 lbs pretty easy if you really try for it. if you run a stainless barrel then yeah thats another good place to cut weight.

[joeyjoe367]

Nope, my RT is pretty much bare bones. got the stock aluminum barrel on there at the moment, and sometimes I use a boomstick (to have a barrel kit in the near future). There's really no way for me to shed off a significant amount of weight without making major changes to the setup, such as the air system, or mainbody.

Yeah, the sightrail could take off an ounce.. but then it wouldn't be dead sexy :)

oh, and I'd have no place for my scope :D

as I said, I'll make my decision on saturday after testing out a few setups.

[Jonesie]

Originally posted by joeyjoe367
'thing is, you're filling 4500 PSI... Teflon tape wouldn't cut it there, would it? I'd think that loc-tite would be necessary.

Did you just use a plain' ol 90* and teflon tape to your HP guage? I believe there's 4500 PSI going into that inlet, right?

I used tape on my 3000 psi hi guage because the guys at my local shop told me it work fine. On a 4500, I would not hesitate to use Loctite, IMHO. I know that's the plan when I get my E-Mag and 68/4500 Flatline and Warp it...

Jonesie