best cocker parts

[jwa158]

hey i'm trading my trix for a nice cocker and i was wondering what would be the best upgrades for a cocker. i want to know what are the best rams, 3-ways, lpr regs, and all that other good stuff on it. i mean best as in smoothest, most consistant, most efficient, for best rof etc. i'm also gonna put on an e-blade.

[PolishSausage]

Look into Shocktech 3-ways
Belsales Pnu's

Pretty much everythings good, but stay away from ANS, never liked them and a lot of people hate em' as well.

Look into getting Free Flow internals, for $70 and free labor, its worth it

Try out diffrent frames, I personally like the KAPP Reflex, but I hear the Eclipse and DYE frames are nice too.

Get a new barrel if it comes with the stock one

Look into the new Jam bolts or the Supa-Fly, just try stuff out if you can, with Cockers it all personal preference..

Check out www.air-powered.com

[magman007]

for a 3 wat, the besales hollowpoint 3 way is really really good, but if your going to e-blade it, that is a moot point. Lpr and Ram, go palmers.... and for your internals, i second the idea of going to freeflow

[big E kingpin]

i just installed a shocktech frontblock and bomb, an ans jackhammer and gen x 2 hp regs, a supperfly bolt, and a spring kit. very impresed with the preformance

[darklord]

If you got a lot of money go Eblade. Otherwise I'd go with a Shocktech bomb 3-way, palmer micro rock reg, evil bolt, rat 3:16 valve or an AKA valve... and a good inline reg like a AA black ice.

[Bartman]

bomb 3-way
micro rock lpr
chrome kapp clipard ram
tornado valve
lighting bolt
pre-98 benchmark frame(just for the triger stops)
Sidewinder inline reg

Thouse are my choices, and pretty much exactly what I am going to put on my sniper this week after I tear the used cocker down. As well as I have all those parts on my 2k cf now.

Bartman
Team Ihave no Idea
www.ihni.org
aka tech

[Major Ho]

Originally posted by jwa158
...trading my trix for a nice cocker and i was wondering what would be the best upgrades for a cocker... i'm also gonna put on an e-blade.

If its a nice cocker your trading it for...Why does it need upgrades :D Just hasseling you :p I really dont see that huge of a difference between regs. So Im sure you wont go wrong with anything out on the market. I do like the palmer ram and the STO ram for its rebuildable...ness (word i just crammed together) And why not get a race frame instead of an Eblade? They force you to use their grips, not that that is a bad thing but its forced upon you. Also, you cant go wrong with freeflow anything...

[kyballer88]

As far as bolts go, I would recommend the supafly. If
your not already sold on buying the Eblade, I would
consider checking on the racegun frame. I have a 2k2 vert
feed cocker with a stock front end, supafly, sidewinder
vert reg and a racegun grip and it is VERY smooth and VERY
fast..

[Automaggin2]

2 words

FREE FLOW

Get either a free flow cocker, a free FLOWED cocker, or send your cocker to free flow.

[FreshmanBob]

if you wanna go electro you will NEED a palmer rock and palmer ram, or freeflow ram. Both are the fastest and gentlest on chopping paint (freeflow will stop on your finger, palmer takes break in time an then does the same). 3-ways are a matter of preference, but the palmer rock and ram are a must. Same with freeflow internals. Hell, get a freeflow. If you look at the guns they have already built most are under 900

http://www.4freeflow.com (freeflow's site)

[jwa158]

cocker parts:

brand new red 2k2 cocker
Palmer rock reg
STO nickle 3 way
STO nickle ram
2k2 style evolution bolt
free flow hammer assembly
stock internal valve
brand new kapp timing rod
brand new matching kapp red & silver beaver tail
silver kapp 15* asa
kapp silver gas through grip
silver wgp hinge trigger frame with the
new wgp flame hinge trigger in red

i've got a system x regulator coming in also.

[nerobro]

Wow.. something bart and I agree on. These are about perfect.


Originally posted by Bartman
bomb 3-way
micro rock lpr
chrome kapp clipard ram
tornado valve
lighting bolt
pre-98 benchmark frame(just for the triger stops)
Sidewinder inline reg

Bartman
Team Ihave no Idea
www.ihni.org
aka tech

there's three additions. Stock rams are quite good. And you might want to try a palmer ram.
As for regs, I'm kinda partial to stabilizers. But the sidewinder is no slouch as well.

with a setup like that, you can't go wrong.

[kyballer88]

If you call professional paintball they will tell you that as long as you have a good bolt (supafly) and good inline reg such as sidewinder, your will do just fine with a stock front end with a racegun grip. If you do, I would consider the A.C.E (anti chop eye) kit. They programed mine in classic mode at 15 bps and I have not chopped any paint. I think the racegun is still on sale for $399. Well
worth it.. 1-866-freeflow

2k2 vert cocker
supafly bolt
sidewinder inline
stock front end
black racegun grip
A.C.E kit

[thei3ug]

depends on what your definition of "good" is.

Consistantly good quality with one or two bads?
or good for a few people and not for others.

Pretty much what you're going to get is a bit of both with an opinion poll. And I've learned, for the most part, that no matter how much evidence you build to the contrary, if someone uses that product, regardless of quantifiable results, they'll pimp it like they own the company.

[ogre55]

As for LPRs, go with the Palmer Mini Rock, the micros are good, but they have no relief valve. The boys and girls at Professional Paintball use these.

On rams another option is the Chipleys (although I am not sure if they sell just the rams).

Finally on inline regs, go with a Palmer inline reg. It is the best around and you can install a guage if you like.

Oh and the Phatt Hammer allows you to adjust the velocity without having to take off the back block.

Ogre

[nerobro]

I dunno, nobody has said ANS is good. And Nobody has been really pushing the shocktech parts... people all seem to be leaning towarads stock and Palmer parts. I almost see a concensus coming ;-) I'm rather shocked.


Originally posted by thei3ug
Pretty much what you're going to get is a bit of both with an opinion poll. And I've learned, for the most part, that no matter how much evidence you build to the contrary, if someone uses that product, regardless of quantifiable results, they'll pimp it like they own the company.

[AutoMaggot]

As for LPRs, go with the Palmer Mini Rock, the micros are good, but they have no relief valve.

Get the micro-rock... you never need the relief valve since the air is regulated. All you will get with the longer rock is just that... more legnth.

And don't stay with the stock valve in yout cocker, go ahead and get the entire Freeflow internal kit. I upgraded my Freeflow piece by piece and noticed the biggest difference by putting in the valve alongside the stock FF Hammer... I was shooting over a case of paint on a single tank fill. When I dropped the tungsten hammer in, I was able to lower my cycling pressure to rediculous levels.

In terms of a front end kit, if you already have the STO Ram and 3-Way... I honestly wouldn't even waste your time changing them. The only benefit you would be getting by changing the 3-way is a shorter throw distance, but the STO is short enough to begin with. If you're all down with the way Pro Paintball does things, just remember that they still use the STO Ram on mose all their non-Race applications because of its longevity and smoothness, and that their own Bullet 3-way is just an STO with a cool front cap to make it look like a bullet. So, essentially, you're all set in that department.

I've been down the AKA route, and wasn't impressed with their valve at all... it allows you to run less pressure INTO the gun, but that doesn't necessarily mean that you're going to pinch or really lower your cycling pressure. I was able to shoot 275 FPS on my KAPP Flame with a Tornado Valve at 220 PSI. With the Freeflow internals you actually have to raise your input to around 350-375 PSI... then you can drop the hell out of the Palmer Rock. Mine ended up cycling at around 33 PSI, which is pretty rediculous :D

But, yah, in terms of the Freeflow Hammer... it alone doesn't do much... its the honed valve that really makes the difference.

[oneshot]

free flow is the way to go

[ogre55]

Speaking if cycling pressure and such, how does one measure the cycling pressure?

Ogre

[AutoMaggot]

You can get a special attachment that hooks up to the LPR with a gauge and it'll show you what you're running at. But I go to college close to Pro Paintball, so its nice.

[NewMag]

I'm not a cocker expert but when I owned mine I absolutely loved KAPP pneumatics. escpecailly the three way. relly smooth. Rat valve, shocktech supafly bolt, a new frame would be a great add on as the stock ones are pretty fragile.