Best recommendation for Mag & X-Valve?

[Dueydog]

Hello,

What are the best recommendation for setting up a Mag? I have a MiniMag & MicroMag 2000 w/ centerfeed, cocker threading and ball detent, an X-Valve w/ level-10, centerflag 201 tank (68/4500), 12" freak set, AGD intelliframe w/ blade, and Evo II. For some reason, it just doesn't seem to be as consistent or accurate as my MiniMag with stock valve. What can I do to improve accuracy and consistency? I have thought about adding another foregrip regulator, but I already have good ones on tank and gun. Would that help? I want to get this gun (Closest thing to a non-electric X-Mag that I've found) as good as possible before I upgrade to an X-Mag. It seems Angels and Autocockers are more accurate, is there any truth to this? I have always thought the D=RT and all should be the same, but if the guns recharge more consistently, wouldn't that make them more accurate?

I have also had troubles with the X-Valve. I cleaned up my X-Valve this weekend and noticed much marring on the bolt and spring, and when I took the bolt off it there was a 4mm burr on the end of the power tip,like the bolt had been hitting it incorrectly. I did exactly as AGD directed when installing it and have only used it three weekends now. I filed off the burr, but I'm concerned that all the marks are signs that something is not set up right. My other bolts and valves have not done this or have the marks. Could this be why I'm getting such inconsistent shots and chrono's? I've tried running the valve between 650 & 800 PSI and it seems to be more inconsistent at the higher PSI.

Thanks and look forward to your responses,
Matt

[joeyjoe367]

First off, you don't want a secondary regulator. You will starve the RT valve which wants 800 psi input.

When you're checking for consistancy, make sure that you are chronographing correctly. The RT valve recharges so fast that it will heat up the air inside. If it's allowed to cool, it will result in lower velocities, hence the shoot-up. Read up on your manual and watch the RT video for chronographing procedures.

Remember that accuracy is always about consistancy. as stated by budd orr, 90% of velocity fluxuations have to do with paint/barrel matches.

Get some good paint and a barrel kit. Match your paint well, and you should be good to go. Unfortunatly due to the aerodynamics of a sphere, there's not terribly too much you can do about accuracy other than keeping your velocity consistant.

Good luck.

*edit* as for the valve marring, I honestly can't visualize what's happening... got a digi-cam?