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Kitsune
03-03-2003, 12:34 AM
I would like to thank you all for your help and guidance in the matter of me finding the right minimag. But I have givin it up.... because I just got one off EBay brand new, still in box, never used for $275!!!

I can feel it now..... well that is the stale air that will soon become the inside of my wallet.

Again I thank you all for your help, you have all been great, especially you Carl, you have been the greatest help, and now that I have said that, ON TO THE QUESTIONS!

1. How much does the level 10 kit usually cost?

2. Explain nitrogen, the tank, how it works, and the cost, plz.

All I can think of, and if I think of anything else I know you all will be there to help.




GOOD BYE 32 Degrees Rebel Bottomline 2002..... and lost screws!

Mossman
03-03-2003, 01:11 AM
Level 10, 70-85 dollars. Check 888paintball.

Nitrogen. Well, you've got yourself a tank. You put compressed air in it (basically the same as nitrogen, the terms are interchangable. Since air is mostly nitrogen it has most of the same properties as nitrogen. If you go and get a tank filled, 99.99% chance you're getting compressed air.

See, your co2 tanks are nice and small because you're storing the co2 inside as a liquid. When you let it out it spreads out again into a gas (well, most of the time). If co2 changed from a liquid to a gas consistantly and predictably then compressed air wouldn't be that much better. The fact of the matter is, co2 is hard to control, sometimes liquid gets in to the gun freezing stuff up, the temperature outside changes how it reacts, and subsequently, your velocity.

Compressed air is stored as a compressed gas. Common tank sizes are 47ci (steel tanks, about the size of 20oz co2 tanks, a tad bigger). 68ci tanks, which are a bit bigger, the "normal" size you see around. 88's are bigger, they come in a stubby size or a long and skinny size. They're managable for most people, getting on the big side. 114's are huge, big heavy blimps, people don't really buy em any more cuz getting fills is easier now and can be done more often.

Then there's the pressure the tank can hold. 3000psi and 4500psi are the major pressures. If your field can only fill to 3000, save some money and buy the 3000. If your field can do 4500, or you're thinking about playing tourneys where you really cant afford to run out of air during a game, get a 4500psi tank. The only real difference is price, they look nearly identical.

For your mag just get a preset screw in system. It screws in like a co2 tank and is more than enough for what you need. PMI and crossfire are 2 common, cheap, and established brands. I find that my 4500psi PMI reg i just sold was of much higher quality than this 3000psi one (WHICH I JUST BROKE AND HAVE TO SEND BACK TO PMI. GRRR!).

Go Crossfire just to make me happy :). I'd suggest 68/4500 if you can afford one, (less than 200 new, 150 used). 68/3000 if your field only fills to 3000 (170ish new, 100 used). IF price is a big problem get a 47/3000 steel tank, but be prepared to fill it a lot). If you can only get 3000psi but need to be able to play a while on a fill look for a 88/3000. I've only seen long styles of 3000psi 88ci tanks though.

Man, i wrote too much, hope it helps you out :)

-Sam

AGD
03-03-2003, 01:12 AM
Welcome to the family Kit!!

AGD

madmatt151
03-03-2003, 01:37 AM
I carry a 114 on my MAG. Am I considered a weirdo? I am lookng for a smaller one, just because of peer pressure.

ogre55
03-03-2003, 11:14 AM
madmatt151:

If it feels comfortable in your hands, use it. I'm 6'4" and it would feel a bit bulky to me (I use a 68) but to each their own.

Forget that pear pressure stuff.

Ogre

Smokee_2_7
03-03-2003, 01:44 PM
So far all of your questions have been answered. Im just going to mix it up a little (like i always do. . )


Sure, level 10 kits are about 85 bux.

However, X-valve comes with level 10 included. . . There's 2 ways to look at it. You can go ahead and get the level 10 now, and when/if you go with an x-valve you'll have an additional level 10 kit to sell used to someone.

Or, you could put the initial 85 towards an x-valve.

see how it works? It's always cheaper overall if you do buy upgrades at the same time. 85 now for lx and 235 for x-vlave trade in later will cost you 320 overall.

Or, you spend 235 for x-valve trade in first, and never have to buy an level 10 kit outright. Total cost, about $235.



Now, on to nitrogen.

Mossman pretty much said everything that I was planning on.

Either a PMI or crossfire screw-in.

I own a crossfire, Barry owns one of each. The other guys on the team all shoot crossifres. None of us have had any problems.

Picking the size and pressure of youre system is determined by where you play on the field, how much paint you shoot in an average game, and you're budget.

I know you, and roughly how you play. Honestly, at this stage in your paintball-playing-development, I wouldnt' sweat the above questions too much.

That being said, Let's make the limiting factors cost and overall usuability.


the absolute CHEAPEST way to fly with be with a 47ci steel tank, with a 3000 psi capacity. These can be found for under 100, easy.

Now, there's some drawbacks to this tank.

Its very heavy. We have one in the shop that paul left up there the other day. Next time I see you I'll let you hold it and see for your self.

IT does not hold alot of air. I do not have definite numbers on the # of shots off this tank, but I will tell you that its going to be somewhere below 700, (on a mag) for sure.

This means that you will have to re-fill about every other game (approximately).



Well, moving up the price scale a little bit brings you into the ranges of the carbon fiber wrapped tanks. The main benefit of these things is the SIGNIFICANT decrease in weight over the 47ci steel tank, as well as increased capacity.

There are several sizes- -45ci, 68ci, 72ci, 88ci, and 92ci just to name some of the more popular ones.

I own a 45, and 68. Barry has a 72 and 88. Come by to take a look at the differences between sizes.

Almost all of these sizes (except the 45) can be bought in a 3000psi version. on my mag, i get about 800-900 shots off of my 68ci, 3000psi tank. Thats more than I will ever shoot in a single game, considering the position that i generally play on field.

By going up to the 4500psi models, you can figure an increase in shots by about an extra 50% (68ci 4500== about 1200-1400 shots). There is NO increase in size or weight, just in the pressure that the tank holds, and cost.



All that being said, here's what I would reccomend for you at this time:

Crossfire 68ci 3000psi.


That will be the best cost/benefit ratio for you at this time.


Talk to ya later,


Carl


P.S. Feel special man, Tom Kaye himself just welcomed you to the automag family!

Kitsune
03-04-2003, 03:04 PM
I probably will get compressed air soon, but I will be using the system where you carry the tank on your back and have the hose connect your gun to the tank.

For me to do this, could you give me a list of what items I will need? You will need to explain any of the valves or whatever are on these items because I know how to shoot a gun and nothing else.

I mean I started getting confused when you gave me that DETAILED explanation on the compressed air systems.

Thanks.

FalconGuy016
03-04-2003, 03:16 PM
Get a very large tank (unless you find that uncomfortable on your back) and buy a REMOTE line that is rated for compressed air. I *think* all should work fine, but I know there are those out there made for air specifically. Screw it in your gun, you are done.

If it turns out you dont have to buy a specific air-rated remote line, then DO NOT WORRY about the psi rating (unless its like below 1000 or something strange). You do not need a 4500 psi rated remote to run a 4500 psi tank. The tank outputs at around 800 psi.

However for c02 you need to have at least 3000 psi for a remote.

Ultimator
03-04-2003, 03:43 PM
Go compressed air almost immediately and you will appeciate your mag a lot more. I used Co2 for about 2 months and when I went to compressed air the difference was unbelievable. A lot more consistent and a lot more accurate. Take Carl's advice on the Xvalve too, although it gets sort of expensive because you cannot use CO2 on an Xvalve. So what I would do is this:

Buy a 68/3000 tank (cost used is around $100)
Save up for a while and buy an Xvalve (I believe Doc said it was $235?)

You will be pretty much set from there, the only other thing I would suggest is an Intelliframe, Y-grip, or Z-grip, whichever suits your needs the most.

TheJester
03-04-2003, 03:53 PM
i'll 2nd the statement on save up for a x-valve, that's what i did for my minimag. they nailed down nitro/compressed air tanks, so just trust us, it's ALOT better than Co2. if you don't want to wait to get the lvl 10 that comes on the x-valve, here's the cheapest place to find 1 at 68.75 lvl 10 kit (http://store.yahoo.com/actionvillage/011-1000-581-1.html) hope you enjoy your mag, i know i love my minimag

WARPED1
03-04-2003, 04:52 PM
I had a 114 3k that I ran remote.Recently I purchased an 88ci 4500psi tank.Still waiting for it.