Emag in manual no bounce

[ICOM]

Ok i am playing with my emag in manual mode and i feel no bounce or nothing like that at all. I have my tank set at 850-950. It barely feels like a rt trigger,mostly like a classic. Is there something wrong here,well with my gun?

[Strider]

What velocity range and do you have LX?

[pbguy888]

I played with my X valved micromag and the exact thing problem was happening... I cant figure it out. And I dont know what my velocity was ( at friends house) And I have an LX

[BajaBoy]

yea, also what spring you using? (try a small)

[pbguy888]

small is in for me

[rehme]

try a little bit of oil

[Strider]

You need to have access to a chrono to properly get it running.

I've had good success getting the RT trigger to react with LX around 250fps on the stock spring. (Small Spring I believe?)

EDIT: Oh those was with a RTP RTPX and Retro Mag. I do note that my emag isn't very RT-like with my middle spring, but I use EMode most of the time...

[Blazingace]

I run all Retro Minis and My e-mag. I have the mid spring in most of the guns, but the short one in the e-mag. The retro minis are plenty reactive at the preset pressure. On the one with the Flatline I turned the pressure up to 1100 and got incredible bounce. I just wanted to see what it did. I notice that mt e-mag is more reactive that the retro valves. Same tank and imput pressure. The wau it is designed and the ON/OFF assy. is different in the retros and the E-mag.

[ICOM]

Ok its short spring and velocity is about 260. But still nothing really....

[ICOM]

I really dont use it in rt mode but just wondering why my emag is doing this.

[cgrieves]

I recently upgraded from a classic valve to an EMag valve in my classic Mag with Level 10 (longest spring). I swapped out the Quad O-ring and used the standard twin on/off top O-rings. I started out with a single trigger and found the pull too stiff and no noticeable reactivity. I then installed a benchmark double trigger frame and found more reactivity, but still nothing really significant.

So the last step is to tune your on/off pin. Get a set of vernier calipers and two spare on/off pins, and using a file or dremel (be very careful using a dremel, it cuts down pretty fast) start taking small amounts off the thin end of the pin. Make sure you cut it square on the pin end.

You only need to take thousandths off at a time (this is why I prefer to use a high quality file) spend an afternoon doing it, and keep reinstalling it and test firing. Write down the pin lengths and how it feels on the trigger. Either do it until you get it how you like it, or do what I did and keep filing until the trigger is unusable. You then know how afr you can go with your pin and what sort of response it will give you. File your second spare pin down to the length you like. The length required will vary from valve to valve- mine needed to go down to .730 before I got the response I liked, but without the trigger running away.

My next project is to install the Quad on/off O-ring, (which supposedly gives a lighter pull, but also requires a shorter pin) and find a pin length to suit it.