making the emag smooth while firing.. how?

[boomerfoxtrot]

I'm going from a GZ ... yeah, the trendy, cheep spyder clones to an EMAG... I'll shoot my GZ then shoot the emag and I notice that the EMAG has a LOT more jump to it while shooting...

Is there anyway to get this jump under control and make the gun smooth?

also, does the XMAG have this problem?

[Cristobal]

I would expect that the lower mass of the lvl 10 bolt would help keep the gun from moving as much when it cycles (as compared to the standard bolt). Since the X-valve comes with lvl 10, I would expect you would see this benefit.

[Dayspring]

Jump? What jump? I don't notice anything.

I would imagine that the Emag has more moving mass during the firing cycle than the GZ does. So that's probably what you're feeling.

My advice? Hit the gym. ;)

[personman]

rar boomer, if I can handle it, you can, and thats that.
:p

[Havoc_online]

it's either in your mind or your just more confortable with the GZ but the LX Emag will have less recoil.:)

[boomerfoxtrot]

maybe it is in my mind.. I don't know...

If I ever get the LX to work without dicking with it every week I'ld be happy...

but the LX keeps pissing me off!!

I had it set and it worked great, dry fired it 100 times or so, no leaks, shot fine.... let it sit for a day, the batt on the emag died so it's charging now, but when I gass it up... it charges the valve, but only fires once then it has nothing.. I crank the Voc up and it vents out the back, and still nothing.... ahhh.. I hate this..

[JEDI]

I seem to be having the same level 10 problem. Its made me very "gun shy" of my Emag. I'm almost hesitant to call it my primary marker. The LX will work when I dry fire it at home, and even while running a hopper of paint through it. As soon as its go time at practice, I get barrel leaks, bolt stick, all kinds of rediculous BS.

In the past few weeks, I've gone from a 1.5 to a 1.0 to a .5 carrier, and back again. I'm really losing faith in my Emag, and I've put so much into it. Its become a running joke within my team. TOM! anyone! Please help me out! I dont want an $1100 paper weight.

[Skoad]

if your fed up with it...i'd like a $1100 paperweight... :D

[Mossman]

Originally posted by JEDI
TOM! anyone! Please help me out! I dont want an $1100 paper weight.
I wouldn't mind an 1100 dollar paper weight :)

I don't have LX issues at all, but its just getting warm so I havent used my mags too much over the winter.
Anyhow, oiling up the carrier o-rings is always good. How many shims you running? I forgot to put shims in my retro mag before I left for the field on tuesday, and i left without em, but it hummed all night and didnt break any paint. It bounced off and reset one or two times, but the Halo took care of my nicely :). I believe I have a 1 carrier in there, I'll check later
-Sam

[Reo5th]

I had similar LX issues...kind of a pain to work out

just buy an angel!

[Phil]

It is not in your head. AGD guns are no where near as smooth as timmy's. You wouldn't notice it unless you shot both. I didn't notice the kachunk of my tippmann until I bought my RT. Man was that RT smooth compaired to the tippmann. Then I shot my friends Impulse and I thought wow, my Emag sure cycles roughly compaired to this impulse.

I feel your pain with L10. I installed it in 3 markers and had trouble with all 3. 2 of them I gave up on and sent to AGD. I finally got L10 working in my Emag after days of finageling. Hell, one of them had to be sent twice because even AGD didn't fix it the first time. If your one of those lucky people that the planets aligned for and L10 works well then more power to ya. I have a friend right now that is struggeling with his L10.


Good Luck

[Dayspring]

Why, so I can have a $2000 paper weight? ;)


Originally posted by Reo5th
I had similar LX issues...kind of a pain to work out

just buy an angel!

[BlackVCG]

The reason that Mags have so much "recoil" is because they dump so much air so quickly. The air builds up behind the ball due to the ball's inertia and this cause the air to expand in both directions. This is why you feel more recoil when shooting paint than just air.

If the Mag was a low pressure dwell controlled gun and had the same moving mass bolt, it would be the smoothest gun on the market. There's more to recoil than the moving mass.

[JEDI]

Originally posted by Skoad
if your fed up with it...i'd like a $1100 paperweight... :D
For $1100 Its yours!

[ChucktheMAGician]

I'm so glad to here that lx is causing someone else weird problems:rolleyes: I thought it was just me, have it working fine Friday night, and then have to use another gun Saturday at the field because it's leaking somewhere or not firing. What's weirder is that my emag works great every time but my no rise retro causes problems. Oh well, I'm still not sure whether it's the user or the machine!

[Cristobal]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
The reason that Mags have so much "recoil" is because they dump so much air so quickly. The air builds up behind the ball due to the ball's inertia and this cause the air to expand in both directions. This is why you feel more recoil when shooting paint than just air.


Are you sure about this? It was my understanding that the dyno test results posted in the data thread in deep blue showed that if anything that the mag takes a little bit longer to reach peak pressure behind the ball than most other markers.

[rehme]

sometimes when i am chronoing my gun will not fire that is how sensitive i have my LX :D but when i raise my gun it fires just fine it makes me wonder when i bunker somebody it wont fire:confused:

[BlackVCG]

Are you resting the gun on the chrono when you chrono in the gun? If so, that's the problem. By resting the barrel on the chrono, if the bore size is tight enough, it will hold back the LX bolt and keep it from firing. Just don't rest the barrel on anything and it will be fine.

[nuclear zombie]

I always thought that the recoil your are feeling has more to do with the spring kicking the bolt back.

[Patron God of Pirates]

Oil the gun well every time you use it. I had the same problem until I started doing this. Every time you pull it out, put a few drops in. I tuned LX will stick with the added friction of less than fresh oil.

[thecavemankevin]

keep in mind you might need to use the middle spring, but cut it a bit. That is the problem i was having. Kept chopping with the stock spring and put in the middle and couldn't get it to fire (cranked the veloc. up and it just vented-even with a new piston). cut the spring and it works great now.

Also, i have noticed on my hyperframe that if the field strip bolt it just even a little bit too tight, it wont fire...just click. So i finger tighten it and then back it off just a hair...and she rips....????

For those with emags try backing off the tension on you field strip screw and see if that works.

[JEDI]

The last two replies sound interesting. Thanks guys. I'll give them both a shot.

[omni]

I get weird leaks now and then as well. My lvl10 will just start leaking after its been working fine, I just have to take it apart and put it back together with all the same parts and it works fine.

I though the Oring wore out more and I had to go to a tighter carrier, but with the next one down my bolt Sticks really really bad.

[hitech]

You guys with the level 10 problems. You MUST use the largest carrier that does not leak. Also, if that carrier causes the oring to fit tight on the power piston (the weight of the bolt will not allow it to slide past the oring) it is still too tight. Use a different oring. Even better, use an oring from a different kit. One of the level 10s I installed would not work correctly no matter how small a carrier I used. It would work okay at first, then leak after awhile. I used an oring from a different kit and it hasn't had a problem since. :D