I want to back-bottle an RT Pro

[ddinwdc]

Does anyone think there would be a problem in doing this? I will tap two holes under the valve, just like the old Automag classic rails use to come with. I have not actually held an RT Pro Rail, but it looks like it could accomodate this. Someone told me there is not enough "meat" underneath the valve, and that the screw heads would stick out. However, there clearly is enough "meat" on the other end of the rail to accomodate a forgrip, and the screws for a back-bottle adaptor and forgrips are the same. Does the thickness of an RT Pro rail taper towards the end or something? I am not talking about a ULE rail or an Emag rail; the ends of those rails have an angle to the end of them. I am just alking about the regular RT Pro rail.

[dfs]

i did this with my rtp because i didnt like the bottom mount and it worked fine. it felt great w/o a mask on and had a good cheek weld like a rifle. but, with a mask, it wasnt so good. i decided to just go with a remote instead. the bolts are a little long and will have to be cut a little. ill post pics when i get a chance.

[ddinwdc]

Thanks buddy; I'd love to see some pics.

[dfs]

here are the pics:

http://www.boreguard.com/images/webimages/DCP_0420.JPG
http://www.boreguard.com/images/webimages/DCP_0422.JPG
http://www.boreguard.com/images/webimages/DCP_0423.JPG

used a short microline on swivel connectors for the air connection.

[Miscue]

I'm trying to figure out how you can play tight in a bunker with that... ;)

[ddinwdc]

That's exactly what I want to do. I want to use it for wood ball and scenerio. What size tank is that? I am going to use the shortest tank I can find (45/45?). And you didn't have any problems tapping the holes? The screws don't interfere with the valve? Any mechanical issues?

Thanks!

-D

[dfs]

miscue- it is a little harder to peer around the cornor of the bunker. the course i play has two small wooded fields at each end of a speed ball course so you get a little of both with every game. the bigger problem is lining up with the site when you hold it like a rifle. the mask gets in the way and makes it hard to aim (i know the speedball guys like to spray-and-pray but i like to aim).

ddinwdc- no mechanical issues other than when you drill your holes, make sure there is enough room for the back of the trigger frame. the stock bolts will be too long and will not allow the valve to fit back in. i just assembled the frame and asa with the bolts sticking out and made a few passes with a end mill to chop em flush with the frame. you could grind the bolts down if you dont have access to a mill. the tank is a 68/45 with an adjustable reg that makes it just a little longer that a preset 68. it feels a little long to me and a 45/45 probably would be a good length. the last problem, caused by the microline, is that you have to remove the asa and microline to get the valve out of the gun. i dont like a lot of plummbing on the gun so its ok with me but a longer flexable air line will be needed if you want to remove the valve easily

i eventually stopped using this setup and went with a remote. it works good in the woods but it is hard to use when your in a hiding in a small area.

[ddinwdc]

Or a back-bottle adaptor?

[dfs]

bottom bottle - the one that came with the gun