on/off question?

[zippy]

I just got my x-valve in the mail and installed it inot my gun. I'm using a hyperframe and when i pull the trigger it makes a small hiss as if the on/off is not being fully activated. Do you think a longer on/pin would solve this problem?:confused:

[kenny45749]

From what it sounds like, i think that may be what you need. A hiss like that means that somewhere the interaction between sear and valve is not fully happening. This sort of thing would happen on a stock trigger if the trigger rod was too short resulting in it being unable to be pressed far enough to activate the on/off(if you followed that you get a cookie). Can the hyper frame be adjusted to stike the on/off differently. This may be another area to check. I would talk to center flag and see if they have seen this before. The longer pin may also be needed, i just dont know enough about the hyper frame to say for sure. good luck

[zippy]

Thanks for the feedback, would you happen to know where i can find longer on/off pins?

[kenny45749]

Try to get ahold of BlackVCG or Tunaman. They will be able to point you in the right direction, if not get you one. good luck

[askman]

before doing anything, maker sure that the level x is set up right. (start with 2 carrier and no shim) my did not shoot, because it was too tight, when I first got the x valve. (It had .5 carrier in it) I am using 2.5 carrier and 2 shim now. it is better to start too loose, compared to too tight.

[hitech]

Here is an excerpt from my Hyperframe FAQ that should help you determine if the on/off pin is long enough.

Adjusting the Hyperframe's solenoid, On/Off pin to short (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64976)

You probably need a longer on/off pin. I had the same wear pattern and fixed it with a longer on/off pin. Regardless, you want to determine if the sear is engaging fully. To do this, remove the grip panels and the safety (be careful not to loose the spring or the TINY ball bearing). Gas up the marker and fire it a couple of times. See if you can manually move the solenoid plunger away from the sear "leg". You need to have a small gap between the sear leg and the solenoid plunger. If you do have a gap then try and move the sear leg (accessible through the safety hole). It should NOT move. If it does, the pin is not long enough.

If there is no gap, or it is large, loosen the four VERY small set screws in the top of the grip frame (you will have to remove the grip frame to gain access to them) and move the solenoid.

Also, you should be using a RT style bumper (clear). They dampen bolt bounce better than the classic bumper (blue). The more the bolt bounces the more it will wear the sear.

Added: BTW, you can also use a RT pin. They come in various lengths.