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View Full Version : Custom MAG body Questions??



gunselman
04-22-2003, 11:50 PM
hey guys,

I am building custom mag body similar to a SLUG that extends over the valve.It is going to have Cocker threaded barels, with angle feed necks and angel ball detent(s). I need to know how thick the walls of the gun need to be at the ball detents for it to still do its job but not be restrictive?


Like in the ULE Body, how thick is the wall (THE NEW ULE BODIES, AFTER THE BALL DETENT PROBLEMS)

And can you use dual ball detents?


SO if you guys could help me out, that would be great!

askman
04-23-2003, 12:25 AM
start with Sluggo blue print or buy a sluggo.(it is extended version) it is available in the tech forum. as far as thickness is concerned for detent, it depends upon detente that you are using. there are variation among makers. I would bet the detente that you want, and measure the thickness of the thread. basically you just want to see the ball inside such that when ball is completely depressed, it will go flush with the inside body.

gunselman
04-23-2003, 08:42 AM
hey askman,

thanks for the info. I did use the SLUG file that was posyted and i made a few minor changes to it. so the ball detent should fit almost fulsh on the inside of the body wall?

Do you think that there would be any benefit in using dual detents (one on each side of the breech) would give me any advantage onver just one. I saw that a few companies that are making SLUg bodies are using two so i just wondered if it would help at all.

Also i am putting a RetroValve with a level 10 in it and i am using and inteliframe or possibly a Benchmark one finger frame, it that helps anyone.

askman
04-23-2003, 09:53 AM
dual detente will be needed only for halo. otherwise it is nice, but not needed.

sniper1rfa
04-23-2003, 09:53 AM
almost flush, but not quite. if you make it flush, tolerances will push it into th breech, jamming the bolt. The simplist solution would be the normal wall thickness (say, the OD of 1.125" and the ID of .69"). I think that would work straight up, because the bore of a sluggo (to my knowledge) is slightly larger than that, like .695". But, if it doesnt work when you make it, use an o-ring.


or you could just go buy a detent and mic it. :)