No Response Trigger

[sfaoro]

Just bought the Xvalve. Everything installed properly and level 10 bolt works fine, however no response trigger. I suspect it's air pressure but am using standard 3000 psi non-adjustable HPA.
Contacted AGD... Tech said... Uhhhh. Try putting teflon o-ring at the top of on/off pin. No change.
Any ideas?:confused:

[Dayspring]

Now, what do you mean no response? Is it not firing at all? Is there pressure behind the trigger but not firing?

I need a little more detail to help.

[.bolink]

I know this is obvious...but do you have the RT sear?

[sfaoro]

Originally posted by .bolink
I know this is obvious...but do you have the RT sear?

The sear they sent with the Xvalve was identical to the stock sear.

[sfaoro]

Originally posted by Dayspring
Now, what do you mean no response? Is it not firing at all? Is there pressure behind the trigger but not firing?

I need a little more detail to help.

The gun fires great, 285 fps, no velocity drop. I was under the impression that the trigger was supposed to react something similar to the A-5 with a response trigger, ie, bounce but this gun does not do that. Just fires very smooth. No bounce at all.

[Russ]

The R/T sear only fits into R/T's (duh) not R/T pro's, Mini's & Classic's. The X-Valve doesn't fit R/T's because of the banjo bolt.

Next Q, what gun did you install the X-Valve in?

[maximum]

I have to have my input pressure at about 900 for a nice Reactive Trigger.

- Maximum

[sfaoro]

Originally posted by Russ
The R/T sear only fits into R/T's (duh) not R/T pro's, Mini's & Classic's. The X-Valve doesn't fit R/T's because of the banjo bolt.

Next Q, what gun did you install the X-Valve in? It's just a clasic

[sfaoro]

Originally posted by maximum
I have to have my input pressure at about 900 for a nice Reactive Trigger.

- Maximum Can you tell me what happens if you have your pressure about 750 psi? Any reactive tigger at all?

[Russ]

The on/off pin should measure .750" The valve just may require a bit of breaking in. I run my R/T valve at around 850psi for a nice trigger feel.

It won't be as "reactive" (bouncy) as an A-5's R/T trigger.

[Nobody077]

Running my retro at 700-750psi I dont get much reactivity. I get the best at around 850psi and it will start to runaway around 925psi. If you just got your valve give it some time, most wont be reactive untill they break-in. Keep your valve oiled real good and when it breaks in you should be able to find the sweet spot at 750psi, but it wont be A-5 reactive. You may want a adjustable tank or a 800-850psi pre-set.

[sfaoro]

Originally posted by Nobody077
Running my retro at 700-750psi I dont get much reactivity. I get the best at around 850psi and it will start to runaway around 925psi. If you just got your valve give it some time, most wont be reactive untill they break-in. Keep your valve oiled real good and when it breaks in you should be able to find the sweet spot at 750psi, but it wont be A-5 reactive. You may want a adjustable tank or a 800-850psi pre-set. Yes, looks like a regulated bottle is the only solution to this. I do appreciate everyones help.

[RTPRO]

Thx for the answear, I only oiled the on/off I fired like 800 balls and now is shooting much faster, thx...

[Md-Defiant]

OK, I have a x-valve in my minimag and i used it alot, like maybe 4000 paintballs through it and i shot just air thorugh it with my java preset 68 ci 4500psi tanks. And i still can not get a reactive trigger with it. i have to pull the trigger my self. Does it require more breaking into? Or is my pressure not right? my preset tank is at like 800-850, and if i turn my regulator up on my gun i shoot to high on volocity. On my friends old RT valve i can just pull the trigger just alittle bit and i get a REALLY fast burst shot! I also heard that Airgun Design cut out the reactive trigger on the x-valse to make them tounry legal but the tournies i play in alow them. so plz get back to me.

[Dayspring]

Just an FYI- you're buddy's gun was malfunctioning. Your gun is the one working correctly.

What he was experiencing was called runaway. Meaning, he was not in full control of the firing cycle. This condition can ruin sears, trigger rods and bolts, as well as put undue strain on the other mechanics.

The reactive"kick" is only there to get the gun back to firing position, not give you a burst mode.

[jcoolzer0]

i thought the whole point of spending $325 was to get the gun to bounce, so the valve only helps if you can outshoot the trigger? does it make the trigger pull any different. I recentl;y got a minimag, and was planning on buying a retro, then decided to go with x-valve, but after seeing this maybe it isnt worth it. any suggestions?

[Md-Defiant]

I was under this impression also. I thought the hole point of the Retro or x-valve was suppost to be able to act kinda like the tippman rt trigger. Then what is this thing where you can get 25+ bps?

[maximum]

I have a X valve. I was running my input pressure at like 700-750 and it felt better than a classic AIR valve,but still wasnt what i expected. Then i bumped my input pressure up to 850-900. WATCH OUT!. I can feel it kick my finger back into firing position. Its all about the input pressure. Granted its less efficient, but who cares about effeciency if you are accurate? Just make your shots count.

- Maximum

PS. Invest in a adjustable tank!

[Md-Defiant]

soo, i can get a burst shot? And if you can't then why does it say 25+ bps?

[maximum]

No burst shot!. Semi Auto is One Pull One Shot. The valve is capable of recharging and shooting at 25bps w/out shootdown. If you can pull the trigger that fast then it is possible to shoot that many balls w/out shootdown(velocity drop off).

Buy a e-mag if you want burst shot.


- Maximum

[Md-Defiant]

ok ok ok! but som,e poepl think that this rt valve/x-valve is like the RT triger for tippmans

[Dayspring]

The ReTro valve, and subsequently, the X-Valve were designed to reduce any sort of shootdown problems. The air flow was redesigned from that of the classic valve. As such, the valve can recharge at a rate over 20bps.

With the classic valve, the on/off pin top was exposed to regulated air pressure (about 400psi).

In the ReTro/Xvalve, the on/off pin is exposed to full, unregulated tank output pressure. (The larger diameter top also helps.)

The kick that happens was acutally a side effect of the redesigned air flow. (The on/off pin is pushed down onto the sear and that in turn pushes the trigger rod into the trigger.)

FYI- Bursts on a gun NOT designed for it (Emag) is mechanically unsound and dangerous b/c you can break parts.

Class dismissed.

[maximum]

Originally posted by Dayspring
FYI- Bursts on a gun NOT designed for it (Emag) is mechanically unsound and dangerous b/c you can break parts.


THanks for the Correction


- Maximum

[Md-Defiant]

ok thanks guys.

[trevorjk]

yeah i was under the same impressions about the x valve when i bought it to


i installed it and it wouldnt work i was useing a cheap steal 50$ tank.

well i sold that went to a big 88 4500 tank at 850 preset. and my gun rips. i installed a level 10 and it just made it faster


i sweetspot under total control at 15 bps over the chronos HONEST TO GOT I HAVE WITNESSES

i dont know if i got lucky or what but the trigger can be very reactive.

[Md-Defiant]

so you can get a reactive trigger...but it is bad for the gun...?

[Dayspring]

You already HAVE a reactive trigger.

What you want is a RUNAWAY/SWEETSPOT trigger. And THOSE are bad for parts. I've seen an emag snap 2 trigger rods in 3 weeks due to the stress put on them by a trigger set up in such fashion.

[Md-Defiant]

ok thanks you no need to get angry. So reactive trigger is just it pushes the trigger back to yout fingure. And a runaway mode trigger is bad for the parts. So when you guys say reactive trigger you just mean that it bounces back to your fingure?

[Dayspring]

Correct.

And that wasn't angry. I get big, green and smash things when I'm angry. ;)

[Md-Defiant]

cool

[trevorjk]

I get big, green and smash things when I'm angry.

that is so weird, i do the same exact thing!:p