I'm totally confused!

[Canadian GP]

Minimag, Micromag, RT Mag, X Mag, E Mag, 68, RT..........see what I'm talking about?

I'm looking to move up from my Piranha to either a Cocker or a MAg of some sort. I don't like the looks of the RT and I know the E Mag is way over my price range to be just playing bushball.

Could someone post some pics or give an explanation as to the differences between the different versions?

Thanks for helping out the Mag Newbie. :rolleyes:

[cphilip]

Well actually if you have ruled out the Emag then the RT Pro is about as complete a package for the price as any of them.

You get X Valve, Intelliframe, Level 10 and your choice of bodies and a SS Line and bottom ASA all in that package. For the money difference its a great bargan.

You might want to look harder at what features you get with it that would cost you more later on to add to a standard mag.

Here is mine now and its waiting on an X Valve as mine was pre X made one.

http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=747651

[Evil Bob]

Click on the store link at the top, you'll see all the pictures you could possibly want of the different models.

-Evil Bob

[Gitaroo Man]

You probably want to get a RTPro since you will want to upgrade from your automag or minimag and it will end up costing more for you to do this.

Just wait a little bit and save up

[pito189]

Phil, you get an X-Valve for that beast, and I think it will be looking pretty damn good.

[Brak]

its okay...you're canadian....

[slushee]

There are fundimentally two types of valves.

The original A.I.R. Valve in the older Automags and the newer type of Valve called the ReTro or RT or RT Pro or XValve (yes, they are all basically the same valve, just named different).

The original A.I.R. Valve comes with most autom/minimags and expierenced shootdown (valve could not recharge fast enough to keep up with rapid fire). You can purchase the ReTro valve replacement and replace the A.I.R. valve.

The Automag RT and RTPro comes with the RT valve (same as the ReTro) and can only use Compressed Air. The Valve has a reactive trigger that helps push your finger forward to get a faster firing rate.

The XValve came out as an all aluminum version of the RT stainless steel version (all aluminum means less weight). Apparently all the newer RTPros come with the Xvalve (I might be wrong).

If you don't like the look of the RTPro bodies and like the regular automag bodies, i'd purchase an automag used and puchase an ReTro/RTPro/XValve to replace it (AGD will give you a discount when you send in your original A.I.R. Valve). That is what I did.


As far as bodies are concerned, The automag and minimags come ususally with AIR Valves, the RT and RTPRO markers look similar and come with RT style valves. The RT was only made for a short time due to the fact that it was a learning curve for AGD and the RTPro ended up being a better design. Putting an XVAlve in any automag marker will turn it into an "X - MAG" so to speak.

The lvl10 or lvl x is a new bolt built for any automag that will stop you from chopping a ball. If this bolt hits a ball that is only 1/2 in the chamber (and would therefore chop it), this new lvl 10 bolt (or lvl x depending what you want to call it) will recock instead of chopping it.

There is a bit more I have left out, but these are the main points... for bush ball and a cheaper marker, you may like the automag/minimag with the AIR valve in it. .. and you can alway's upgrade to the ReTro Valve

[Canadian GP]

Thanks to all that replied.

Slushee.........that is alot info you have passed on. I take it from what you have said that any auto/mini with A.I.R. is a good starting spot with upgrades of Retro valve and LV10 down the road.

One more question please. ULE bodies?

Thanks.

[Lopy-slopy]

ReTro or RT or RT Pro or XValve (yes, they are all basically the same valve, just named different).
Yes and no. Retro and RT are the same. The RT pro is a gun, not a valve, and the X-valve is made out of lighter material and has a lvl 10 on it. I think it is slightly faster too.
I would not buy from the store if I were you. Im not saying there bad or anything but you can get a great upgraded mag for the same price or less if it's used. Look in the clasifides. Ebay is good because it is safer than dealing with some unknown person because if you get scammed on EBAY you can report them and they will get your money back. But if lots of people are bidding on something you can end up spending more than you planned. Classifieds are great because you know what the price is from the start and you get great deals. And if they are well known like Tuna you know it's safe. They would never tarnish their reputation with a stunt like scamming someone.

[slushee]

Loby-Slopy
Yes .. the RT is very much a different marker then the automag .. and I was certainly glad to see the RT Pro come out that was very much closer in design towards the orig. automag. This meant more interchangeability and so-forth.

CanadianGP
That's exactly what I did! .. I orig. purchased a used automag (I alway's liked the look of the orig. automag better then anyother version of the automag) and upgraded to an RT Pro Valve (same as ReTro) and lvl 10. I have since played in a few ontario only tournaments and absolutly LUV my marker. I'm sure you will luv it :D

[FalconGuy016]

Originally posted by Lopy-slopy

I think it is slightly faster too.


What do you mean faster? The recharge rate is faster? Or the reactiveness is faster? Im almost positive both of those are a no. It wouldn't even matter if the recharge rate was faster, as you cant outshoot it anyways. The reactiveness is completely dependent on the input pressure from your tank. I dont think AGD would design the valve any "faster" because it is unnecessary

[Demobilized]

The RT is a valve that pushed your finger foward and lets you shoot faster, this is the main advantage of the RT. To accomadate these new rates of fire the RT valve can get it also has a faster recharge rate, which will FULLY recharge as fast as your can pull the trigger. As stated they only run on N2/Commpressed Air, and is the same as the ReTro Valve.

Next you have the X-valve, which is any alumminum version (lighter by 3 oz.'s) of the RT valve and has the Level Ten pre-installed. But other than that they are the same, they shoot no faster or have any other perks.

The A.I.R./Classic/.68 valve is the stock valve, it has a lower recharge rate than both the RT and X valve and has not reactivity or push in the trigger. If fired fast enough you can start to experince velocity drops known as shotdown. This valve can be used the the new level ten upgrade the stop chops. This valve can be used with CO2 but will need some type x-chamber/remote/anti-siphon

Minimag is just a smaller version of the Classic Mag

Micromag is a version of the Automag made by ProTeam Products. The micromag takes cockerthreaded barrels and has a diffrent body, but the valve is the same.

The classified forms here are great, and everyone is nice to deal with. So I would suggest buying an used Automag off here since the Mag is dependable enough to last and you will get a GREAT price.

[slushee]

ULE bodies apparently can be purchased to upgrade the body tube of any automag marker (they look nicer and weigh less) ... at least this is what I believe to be correct

[WARPED1]

You are correct sir! I'm waiting for warp feed ULE bodies.
I want a purple one.

[automagking182]

I'm totally confused!
Minimag, Micromag, RT Mag, X Mag, E Mag, 68, RT..........see what I'm talking about?

i dont even see the code- all i see is
awesome guns, work flawlessly, get any one of them, etc.
(from the movie The Matrix)

[Cristobal]

A couple thoughts to add to the above:

1.) Though it won't recharge as fast as the RT, the AIR valve still should be good for 16cps before encountering shootdown... translation: don't worry about it :)

2.) If you are running C02 a classic (AIR) valve, you'll want an anti-siphon to help prevent liquid CO2 from getting into the valve and freezing it under rapid fire. Beyond that, an expansion chamber, or even better, and inline regulator will help. see here for an explanation of siphon/anti-siphon tanks: http://www.docsmachine.com/tech/siphon.html

3.) If you are running HPA then you already have a reg on the tank, so you won't need any other regs (remember, the valve has an internal regulator). Triple regging is generally unhelpful and liable to result in starving your valve for air.

4.) There's a lot of info on these boards, and a lot of times the answer to a question is as easy as using the search button.

[xLoHungWangx]

I'd recomend getting when used. Chances are if you buy it pre-owned it probably has some good stuff on it.

[Fastkid]

I bought a tko 68 automag from actionvillage.com... Very nice product

Basically, most guns are some variation of eachother, even though some of them can't have parts interchange


For quality, it ranges like this, 68automag or a minimag, Rt, Rtpro, Emag, Xmag.

Rt and rt pro have the 'retro' valve which fires faster, but you actually can just get that as an upgrade for the 68automag or the minimag... Retrovalve, Xvalve, and the emag valve can not function on co2, but the 'classic' valve on the minimag and the 68automag can

Minimag is basically a 68automag with a different look, and a standard frontgrip, but the frontgrip can be an upgrade for the 68




Sheesh... I want an xvalve, dropforward, warpfeed, and the new halo for my 68automag, maybe even a new barrel...