no sweet spot on my retro valve

[azmtnbiking]

its been a while since i replaced the o-rings in my valve and the sweet spot was starting to get smaller and smaller. i replaced the o-rings in the valve bu i still have no sweet spot.

(i had an earlier problem with the the valve going nothing but full auto, but i found the problem. i had forgotten an o ring)

[Dayspring]

You're not SUPPOSED to have a sweetspot. That's actually the gun malfunctioning. You will have more problems than you expect by looking for it- worn sear assemblies, broken trigger rods, worn bolts.

Count yourself lucky that your valve is wearing in.

[azmtnbiking]

really, then why can it fire about 15 balls a second, and the x-valve (the all aluminum version of the retro) can fire 20 balls a second

[Butterfingers]

the RT Retro and X valves are identical in operation... You have to practice to find the sweetspot. If it were easy it wouldent be legal.

[azmtnbiking]

i know this, i'm just wondering what mister dayspring is talking about when he says the gun is malfunctioning when it has a sweetspot. my sweetspot is gone completely and i'm trying to figure out why

[rkjunior303]

Aside from LX on the X-Valve, is that the only difference between a X and an ReTro/RT Valve?

[Dayspring]

When you hit that "sweetspot" you are not allowing the gun to go from full lock to full unlock and back. It begins to wear down parts of the gun such as the sear and the bolt. This will lead to issues down the road that you'll come on here and ask "Why does my gun go full auto and I can't stop it?"

The trigger rod wasn't designed for that kind of rapid fire abuse and I've seen somebody snap 2 rods in 3 weeks b/c of this phenomenon.

What happened is that your valve has now worn in and is working correctly. This is a good thing.


Originally posted by azmtnbiking
i know this, i'm just wondering what mister dayspring is talking about when he says the gun is malfunctioning when it has a sweetspot. my sweetspot is gone completely and i'm trying to figure out why

[Dayspring]

X-Valve is also all aluminum whereas the ReTro valve is an Aluminum/Stainless Steel hybrid (front/back)


Originally posted by rkjunior303
Aside from LX on the X-Valve, is that the only difference between a X and an ReTro/RT Valve?

[rkjunior303]

which only really helps weight.. Performance is the same if you were to have a LX of both.

[Dayspring]

Correct.

[Tim Taylor]

Wasn't the valve designed to do 26 bps? I saw that an x-valve would do 34+ cps. Are you saying that we are all buying these markers so that we can only fire as fast as the lower end of the marker will shoot regardless of the valve recharge rate 8(. What then is the maximum trigger pull rate that would fully cycle the system?

[Dayspring]

What I am saying is that the valve was designed to eliminate shootdown problems. They re-routed the airflow pathways and a few other changes to allow for this. This is why you have to use Nitro only on the X-Valve/ReTro valve. CO2 can't change from liquid to gas quickly enough. It recharges THAT quickly. Once you fire a gun that is RT equipped and the trigger pops back out, you have another full pressure/full velocity shot ready to go. The trigger kick is actually a side-effect. It was never actually designed into the gun. That is the difference between our RT and the Tippmann RT. They still use their old valve, nothing special. They just use the wasted gas to kick the trigger back faster and get that bounce. They did nothing to improve their valve.

That 26BPS means that it is capable of going that fast without shootdown. Keep in mind that it was COMPUTER PULLED. As with any gun, electronic or not- the person is the limiting factor. If you can't pull 26, then you don't get 26. What you have with the 26bps is the ability to shoot as fast as possible without shootdown.

[Butterfingers]

No damage will result from a high rate of fire... Damage results when unexperienced people modify factory parts in order to acheive a high rate of fire.

You can fire 30 bps all day all night all year the valve was designed for it. What it wasent designed for is novice trigger jobs and other modifications.

Finding the sweet spot on an otherwise factory gun requires skill. But if you do get it to fire fast rest assured it is doing no damage.

[FlipShot]

so basically, if I'm shooting with the X-valve and I start to hit the sweet spot and fire quickly, I should stop firing and just treat it as if it was a classic valve?

[Dayspring]

Then how do we explain the worn sear and bolt b/c of said sweetspotting? I'd call those damaged parts...

Valve may be able to handle it... other parts- not so much.


Originally posted by Butterfingers
No damage will result from a high rate of fire... Damage results when unexperienced people modify factory parts in order to acheive a high rate of fire.

You can fire 30 bps all day all night all year the valve was designed for it. What it wasent designed for is novice trigger jobs and other modifications.

Finding the sweet spot on an otherwise factory gun requires skill. But if you do get it to fire fast rest assured it is doing no damage.

[Butterfingers]

Properly set up it will handle it, I have had no problems with wear and my gun. It must have a couple hundred thousand dryfire shots through it.

The problem is that people do silly things like shaving the on/off pin to ungodly short lengths, belveling the sear, adjusting the trigger rod, and loostening the FS bolt. All of which will cause damage.

I am still on my original sear and bolt and all I do is "sweetspot"

You do eat up alot of urethane bumpers though...

Practice to find your "rythym" just as long as you keep everything OEM your gun should be fine.

[FlipShot]

Originally posted by Butterfingers
Properly set up it will handle it, I have had no problems with wear and my gun. It must have a couple hundred thousand dryfire shots through it.

The problem is that people do silly things like shaving the on/off pin to ungodly short lengths, belveling the sear, adjusting the trigger rod, and loostening the FS bolt. All of which will cause damage.

I am still on my original sear and bolt and all I do is "sweetspot"

You do eat up alot of urethane bumpers though...

Practice to find your "rythym" just as long as you keep everything OEM your gun should be fine.

ok this makes sense.