X-Valve question

[mrkbik]

Hello, I am getting my X-valve this Friday but I've got a question. Should the valve work fine right out of the box, so I just slide it in my gun and it will work? Or do you have to take a lot of time messing with different shims and springs and such? The reason I ask is that I have no air at home, so I can't do any tinkering, and I am playing Saturday so I don't want to spend a lot of time at the field making it work right.

[cphilip]

You quite often have to chose the right on off pin. Using the one that was in your original valve sometimes depending on the application...

And you quite often have to tweek the level 10 set up.

A few get lucky and it is good to go right out of the box. But do not be suprised if you have to mess around with it a little bit. So do allow some time and have plenty of air when it arrives. If you do not have either of those I suggest you wait until after this important use so that you will have a good experience with the X Valve.

[mrkbik]

Ok, thanks for the info. I know the owner of the field, so he probably won't mind if I arrive an hour early and do some tinkering before the day starts.

[mrkbik]

One more question- how do you actually know when you've got it tuned right? Is the only problem with the level 10 the leaking? I mean, if the gun is not leaking and seems to be working fine, how do you know when you need a longer/shorter spring and whatnot?

[Dayspring]

The spring length allows you to tune how hard the bolt moves against the ball. The longer the spring, the softer it hits.

As for tuning the orings- you're correct. It's the leaking. HOWEVER, if it's TOO tight, the bolt won't move. so it has to be JUST tight enough to keep the air in, but JUST loose enough for the bolt stem to move.

[cphilip]

It will probably come with a fairly close to right spacer on it and the middle spring on it and the others in a packge. I suggest you oil the on off and on off pin directly and move them in and out a few times, install it in the marker and put a few drops in your air line and start from there. See what it does. Be prepared to turn up the velocity if it does not cock right away when you put the air to it.

Leaking via bolt sticking, Not shooting at all or missfiring every once in a while are symptoms of set up issues. And sometimes out of the box the velocity is not set up hight enough and will need to be turned up before the marker will cock. Occasionaly there will be a non bolt lock while your doing this that may need manual reset by pushing on the bolt as you keep turning it up. Once you get it firing it's a matter of then cronoing it to the proper level and see if you can achieve it.

Leaking out the back is a symptom the velocity is set up too high and may need to be addressed either by turning it down or adjusting the level 10 set up so it will shoot at a lower velocity setting. The carrier may be too tight...

And inability to Crono at the proper feet per second without leaking out the back also are symptoms the level 10 needs some tweeking.