Adjust reactivity by Adjusting level 10 springs?

[Cryer]

First off, I'm not sure if this would constitute a tech issue, so If I'm in the wrong place, I'll delete and repost in tech...

ok. I heard somewhere, that if you use a shorter spring with the level 10 and lower the velocity accordingly, then the reactivity of the X/Retro-Valves will increase. Is this true? what are some other ways to increase reactivity?

Also...I have a preset tank @ 800 psi, but I've been contemplating trading it for a preset 850 psi tank. Is the 50 psi difference worth the hassle?

[adam shannon]

ive found that by using the shortest spring you will get better efficiency...but at the cost of more chops with the LX. im still planning a full day and a couple tanks of air to try to set the LX dead on with the smalest spring and right config of shims to get no chops and better efficiency.

not sure about the reactivity...but since it takes less psi to cycle the bolt with a smaller spring it may help reactivity. i have a flatline so i just crank up the input for more reactivity.

[Cryer]

also, I noticed on the intruction sheet that comes with the x-valve it says that around 750 is the best pressure for reacitvity and if you want better consistancy, drop down to 650...:confused:

Let me know what you find when you get your results done...
I think if you put a smaller carrier in there you could compensate for the lighter spring, but that would probably be pointless as you would still have the same amount of resistance on the bolt...

[Strider]

I've found better reactivity by going with shorter springs.

I'm planning on slowly cutting a long spring and experimenting soon. I'll post results when I do.

[Cryer]

cool. Anyone else have experience?

[BlackVCG]

ALWAYS run the loosest carrier/o-ring combination that doesn't leak.

I run the short spring and no shims in all of my guns and never break or chop paint. I do run an 18V Warp on my E-Mag so that makes sure I never have feed issues. Use a slightly loose paint to barrel fit and you should never have break/chop problems with the short spring.

[Cryer]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
ALWAYS run the loosest carrier/o-ring combination that doesn't leak.

I run the short spring and no shims in all of my guns and never break or chop paint. I do run an 18V Warp on my E-Mag so that makes sure I never have feed issues. Use a slightly loose paint to barrel fit and you should never have break/chop problems with the short spring.

Sweet. I'll be messing with my markers this weekend. Thanks all!

[AcemanPB]

I run the short spring but I haven't swapped out the spring enough to know if there would be a differnce. I have a classic non-retro vavle and I noticed a slight increase in the reactivity of my trigger after level 10. I think this was caused by the increased operating pressure though.

[Evil Bob]

I have a classic RT that goes full auto with the right touch using the lvl 10 standard spring and an input of 700 psi.

Using the longer spring, it takes quite a bit of effort to go reactive.

The short spring is insane, too scary for even me.

-Evil Bob

[BajaBoy]

im using a Perfect carrier size and i think it really makes a diffrence, also im using the cut spring that was also cut down to Almost the size as stock. This is running between 750-850 depending on which tank im using.

This give it s nice real without the Supertrigger bounce, just a little. But im using it in an emag so it doesnt really matter That much.