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chadthedude2
06-19-2003, 07:42 PM
my rt is acting up. it seems to be going full auto whenever i pull the trigger. i tried a new sear, but then the gun would not even fire :/ some have said its a worn out sear, and others say its the on/off assembly. do any of you guys know whats going on? just ask for more details if you dont have a clear picture as to what im saying.

ChucktheMAGician
06-19-2003, 07:53 PM
Original RT or RT Pro? Also what input pressure are you running? Did you just get the gun or have you had it a while and this just started?

Potatoboy
06-19-2003, 08:00 PM
check the on/off pin for any damage.

If it's an old RT, make sure you have an RT sear, not an RTPro sear.

chadthedude2
06-19-2003, 09:44 PM
its an origanal rt. i have a brand new rt sear for it, and not a rt pro sear because the rt pro sears dont fit in the body of a rt.my input pressure is fine, 800. i got the gun used of ebay. it worked great for a month, and went threw 3-4 days of paintball with no problems.....then this happened. also, how do i check if the on/off is damaged? it looks fine to me

i need some help, this thing is frusterating the hell outa me :(

Potatoboy
06-19-2003, 09:45 PM
Take the pin out and look and see if it's still whole.

If you have a set of calipers, measure it.

SocialD
06-20-2003, 09:01 AM
Make sure that the banjo bolt is tight.You'll need to use a hex wrench to tighten it, not just your fingers. Good luck.

chadthedude2
06-21-2003, 05:08 PM
alright ill try taking the pin out and making sure its the right length....btw, how do i take apart my on/off assembly?

Mossman
06-21-2003, 06:34 PM
Just pull the on/off out with your fingernail or something, maybe a screw driver is necessary, but I'm pretty sure the RT's on/off is like the RTP and emag, in which case your finger nail should do it. Then the on/off pin should come out with the on/off brass parts or it may stay stuck in the o-rings down there. Check the pin out, if it's the problem it should be pretty obvious. Is the original sear noticably worn?

BlackVCG
06-21-2003, 08:50 PM
Take a look at the RT valve blow-up diagram in the tech section on www.airgun.com

Make sure you have ALL parts in the valve. If the on/off top o-ring is missing, it will go FA. Make sure that the trigger rod has a slight gap inbetween the tip of it and the back of the trigger when gassed up.

If you took the valve out and didn't pull the trigger before you removed the valve, you might have chopped off a piece of the on/off pin and that will make it go FA, too.

The pin should be ~.750"

chadthedude2
06-22-2003, 07:59 PM
the on/off pin is exactly .750...so that is not the problem. also, the on/off assembly isnt missing any parts, all the o-rings in it are good, and everything looks just like the diagram.


i am now trying the old sear after taking apart my on/off assembly...
EDIT- ok, full auto thing happened when i put my old sear in. but with the new sear, it doesnt even shoot?! what is going on here! this doesnt make sense.

should i sell it on ebay asap, or try to fix this thing?? i need a working gun before july 2nd

BlackVCG
06-23-2003, 12:43 AM
If it doesn't fire with the new sear, then your trigger rod length is probably too long. When it's gassed up, look at where the trigger rod is. It should have about a 1/16" gap inbetween it and the back of the trigger. If there is no gap, screw it in until it does have a small gap and then it should fire. Also, if the trigger rod length looks fine, just try turning up the velocity a bit until it does shoot.

chadthedude2
06-23-2003, 12:05 PM
ok, i got the new sear firing. but its still not working. what length whould the trigger rod be at?

BlackVCG
06-23-2003, 01:06 PM
How is it firing, but still not working? Enlighten me. I need more details to help you out.

The trigger rod should be 1.980" from the back of the rod to the tip of the trigger rod. Are you using the stock frame?

chadthedude2
06-26-2003, 01:07 PM
its still not wroking because there was leakage due to a banjo bolt o-ring, and power tube o-ring. as of now, the only problem i have is a bad banjo bolt oring. tomarrow i will be replacing that, and will have a working mag :) thanks a lot for the help BlackVCG

xen_100
06-27-2003, 11:40 AM
prime example of why the trigger rod length needs to be the right length. (not saying you messed with it) worn sear! this should discourage people from messing with it, nah they will still do it :rolleyes:

chadthedude2
06-30-2003, 08:05 PM
ok after messing with the trigger rod length, trying to get it right, my gun has the same problem. i noticed that when i pull the trigger all the way in, then all the way out it fires twice. once for the pull, and once for the return. also, even when my saftey is on, i barely tap the trigger, it goes off, and if i hold my finger on it, it shoots full auto.

also, my trigger rod measures 1 + 1/4 inches from the back of the rod, to the tip of the rod, not 1.98". is this the problem? did i get a wrong sear with a screwed up trigger rod?

chadthedude2
07-03-2003, 05:52 PM
up...anybody?

xen_100
07-03-2003, 05:55 PM
from the tip of the rod to the back of the clevis should be 1.98". not just the rod itself.

chadthedude2
07-03-2003, 06:15 PM
the clevis is the gold thing right? if so, i measured it,m and it comes up a bit short.also, could not having my velocity high enough cause the gun not to shoot at all? because my regulator nut was not in very far this whole time i had the problem :( stupid stupid me

xen_100
07-03-2003, 06:25 PM
the clevis is wha the rod threads into.

glad you got it figured out.

chadthedude2
07-03-2003, 07:44 PM
to bad i didnt figure it out :mad: :(
so what the hell is wrong??? the trigger rod lenght is fine,and my valve is in perfect shape, what am i missing? this is pissing me off so bad...ok, now the gun is firing all by itself, no joke...i go to turn the velocity down whill its gassed up, and it goes off firing untill it stops for a second, goes off again, then i unscrew the tank... is there any tech people from AGD i can talk to?