Dryden
06-23-2003, 04:34 PM
Here are some quick and dirty instructions for an alternative method of wiring an Intelliframe to agitated feeder. The following example uses a VL Quantum, which I had on hand and didn't mind cutting up to try this out. So for those of you looking for a budget-minded Intellifeed system to a constant spin hopper, here ya go. Yeah, I know ... the Quantum isn't the coolest, but for those who can't shoot 15bps and don't need Level-10s and X-Valves for rec-ball, this should do the trick.
Most of the parts used in this example are the same as what is recommended on AGD's web site, with two exceptions. First: Instead of tapping the positive wire and leaving the on/off toggle switch in the hopper, this example replaces the on/off toggle with a 1/8" audio connector. Second: Instead of using the microphone extension cable in AGD's example, this uses a two-pair, flat wire stereo audio cable with right angle 1/8" plug.
The extra Radio Shack part number is #274-246 (Panel Mount Jack). <a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F001%5F009&product%5Fid=274%2D246">Click here</a>. Any wire from old stereo headphones should work, so you will not need the male/female microphone plug from AGD's directions.
First, disassemble the hopper to its two halves. The VL Quantum should come apart with the "guts" in one half (the side with the toggle switch) and the lid hinge in the other. Take the half with the motor in it - the "guts" - and flip over (exterior of hopper facing you). Using needle nose pliers unscrew the retention nut that holds the on/off toggle switch in place.
Remove the motor, switch and battery leads, then gently pull the red wires off the toggle switch. They should be lightly soldered and rubber heat shrink wrapped, so they should come off easily. The hopper shell should contain two posts which fix the orientation of the on/off switch. You'll need to either cut out the posts or file the interiors a little thinner to fit the panel mount jack (it has a wider profile than the existing toggle). I just used a box-cutter to score the interior pegs, then box head pliers to pinch off small pieces of plastic until I got a good fit. You should not need to remove the posts entirely, but if you do by accident, it won't be a problem. Just be cautious not to crack the entire shell!
Note the wiring of the existing motor. The black wire should be left alone ... only pull the red wires.<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod4.gif">
The wiring for the new inline panel mount jack should be as follows. There are five pin positions on the underside of the jack, you'll only use the two outer most pins that are parallel to each other.<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod5.gif">
The panel mount jack should have one threaded nut included with it. Remove this, then replace all the internals. Check to see that the panel mount will fit flush to the hopper body, because the plug neck is not as long as the one you're removing ... you'll need every millimeter filed from the posts you can get. There should be enough of the plug thread through the exterior side of the hopper to reattach the panel mount nut and tighten it flush. Tighten slowly, and be careful not to crack the hopper.
The finished product should look like so:<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod1.jpg">
Next, cut the headphone wire to about one foot length measured from the plug (double check length for your own particular setup). Split the two wire pairs and cut away about two inches of the exterior sheath. The two wire pairs should contain exposed copper and either a thinner red or white sheathed wire. Either trim off the exposed copper or tape it back to the cord. Cut the sheaths to the red and white wires to expose about 3/4" of copper within them:<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod2.jpg">
Connect to the snap-action roller lever switch (#275-017) with the red wire to pin 1 and the white wire to pin 3. Solder or tape to secure:<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod3.jpg">
The remaining setup is the same as with AGD's tutorial. If everything is connected correctly, the motor should not spin with the plug completely out or completely in. The motor will 'kick' if you place the mini plug about halfway into the mount jack. Test the switch to ensure it does activate the motor before assembling into the trigger frame.
Most of the parts used in this example are the same as what is recommended on AGD's web site, with two exceptions. First: Instead of tapping the positive wire and leaving the on/off toggle switch in the hopper, this example replaces the on/off toggle with a 1/8" audio connector. Second: Instead of using the microphone extension cable in AGD's example, this uses a two-pair, flat wire stereo audio cable with right angle 1/8" plug.
The extra Radio Shack part number is #274-246 (Panel Mount Jack). <a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F001%5F009&product%5Fid=274%2D246">Click here</a>. Any wire from old stereo headphones should work, so you will not need the male/female microphone plug from AGD's directions.
First, disassemble the hopper to its two halves. The VL Quantum should come apart with the "guts" in one half (the side with the toggle switch) and the lid hinge in the other. Take the half with the motor in it - the "guts" - and flip over (exterior of hopper facing you). Using needle nose pliers unscrew the retention nut that holds the on/off toggle switch in place.
Remove the motor, switch and battery leads, then gently pull the red wires off the toggle switch. They should be lightly soldered and rubber heat shrink wrapped, so they should come off easily. The hopper shell should contain two posts which fix the orientation of the on/off switch. You'll need to either cut out the posts or file the interiors a little thinner to fit the panel mount jack (it has a wider profile than the existing toggle). I just used a box-cutter to score the interior pegs, then box head pliers to pinch off small pieces of plastic until I got a good fit. You should not need to remove the posts entirely, but if you do by accident, it won't be a problem. Just be cautious not to crack the entire shell!
Note the wiring of the existing motor. The black wire should be left alone ... only pull the red wires.<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod4.gif">
The wiring for the new inline panel mount jack should be as follows. There are five pin positions on the underside of the jack, you'll only use the two outer most pins that are parallel to each other.<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod5.gif">
The panel mount jack should have one threaded nut included with it. Remove this, then replace all the internals. Check to see that the panel mount will fit flush to the hopper body, because the plug neck is not as long as the one you're removing ... you'll need every millimeter filed from the posts you can get. There should be enough of the plug thread through the exterior side of the hopper to reattach the panel mount nut and tighten it flush. Tighten slowly, and be careful not to crack the hopper.
The finished product should look like so:<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod1.jpg">
Next, cut the headphone wire to about one foot length measured from the plug (double check length for your own particular setup). Split the two wire pairs and cut away about two inches of the exterior sheath. The two wire pairs should contain exposed copper and either a thinner red or white sheathed wire. Either trim off the exposed copper or tape it back to the cord. Cut the sheaths to the red and white wires to expose about 3/4" of copper within them:<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod2.jpg">
Connect to the snap-action roller lever switch (#275-017) with the red wire to pin 1 and the white wire to pin 3. Solder or tape to secure:<br>
<img src="http://www.bininger.com/mod3.jpg">
The remaining setup is the same as with AGD's tutorial. If everything is connected correctly, the motor should not spin with the plug completely out or completely in. The motor will 'kick' if you place the mini plug about halfway into the mount jack. Test the switch to ensure it does activate the motor before assembling into the trigger frame.