X-Mag issues with silenoid/plunger

[ben_JD]

While playing today, I noticed that while in E-mode, my X-Mag began firing irratically (not firing with every shot). I pulled the grips off to look at the innards and noticed that on the trigger pull, the silenoid would "pull" the plunger downward into the silenoid, but would not always release it. A couple of more trigger pulls might release the plunger, but usually, I had to switch to manual mode and pull the trigger which would release the plunger. This happens after about 4-10 trigger pulls in E-mode.

Any advice?

[Potatoboy]

Check to see if the plunger is bent.

This can happen if you forget to take out the sear axle pin before removing the grip frame.

You might be able to see it if it's really bad, but when moving it back and forth in the solenoid body, it should not drag on the sides.

[ben_JD]

There has been no taking apart of anything. I cannot see how anything would have become bent.

[BlackVCG]

They bend over time with regular use. With it degassed and the safety off, set the gun upright so it's held up by the battery pack and grip frame, and with the left grip panel off, lift up on the arm of the sear that connects to the solenoid plunger and then let it go. Use a long allen wrench or something similar to lift up on the arm. After you let it go, it should fall down and the E-Clip should hit the top of the solenoid. If it stops before it gets all the way to the top of the solenoid or it doesn't drop back down without you pushing it down, you have a bent solenoid rod.

What actually bends is the threaded rod that connects the clevis to the solenoid. You need to remove the sear assembly by taking out the axle pin first, then lifting up on the body and then pull the E-Clip off with some small pliers. Now you can lift the sear out and straighten out the solenoid plunger.

Most likely this is your problem. Also, while you have the sear out, measure from the top of the arm on the sear down to the tip of the solenoid plunger. It should be 3.005"

[USAF-Flyboy with a Mag]

I'm having the same problem with my X-Mag. I did as you said and it does as it should be. What should I check next? the length of the trigger pull? Like it isn't setting off the sensor?

[BlackVCG]

Does it click and not fire or does it just not fire sometimes when you pull the trigger? If it's the latter, adjust the trigger magnet so it fires sooner in the trigger pull.

[dcmander]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
Does it click and not fire or does it just not fire sometimes when you pull the trigger? If it's the latter, adjust the trigger magnet so it fires sooner in the trigger pull.

I thought the trigger should be adjusted so it activates near the END of the pull. This way, you don't have to release the trigger all the way....

[boggerman]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
Does it click and not fire or does it just not fire sometimes when you pull the trigger? If it's the latter, adjust the trigger magnet so it fires sooner in the trigger pull.
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I am having the same problem with my e-mag, mine clicks but does not fire. I just pulled the valve and slid it into my minimag to try to rule out any valve problems and it shoots just fine. I checked the plunger rod as you suggested and it appears to be fine also.

[USAF-Flyboy with a Mag]

Ok, Problem solved. I fiddled around with the trigger pull and the magnet position (in the trigger) since that is what affects the hall effects sensor. Seems to be working fine now.

[BlackVCG]

Make sure your battery is full charged. Check it with a multimeter. It should be above 18V.

If the valve is gummy, the solenoid might not have enough power to pull the sear. Oil the on/off pin and clean out the o-ring in the center of the on/off (it accumulates a lot of dirt) and if you're running one of the gray springs for LX, try the gold spring.

[boggerman]

I am running the middle LX spring, but it has worked with this configuration in the past without issue. I did just measure the plunger rod, and it comes in at about .315, however it is drenched in red locktite(from the previous owner) like the trigger rod, making adjustment difficult. If this is a possible culprit, I will break out the mini-torch and melt the locktite.

[BlackVCG]

Measure the entire length. The plunger itself doesn't change length, the length from the top of the arm the clevis attaches to down to the tip of the solenoid is the length you want to measure.

[boggerman]

Sorry, I meant 3.015, not .315:o , don't knkow why I entered it that way. I checked the battery, and it shows -18.25 v, is this system supposed to be +ground? I removed the battery from the case to verify this, and it is setup as +ground, but it has worked that way for 62,000+ shots.

[boggerman]

Hey BlackVCG, I made the adjustments to the plunger rod and trigger rod, charged the battery fully, and put a rebuild kit in the valve, just for good measure. The valve shoots great in my minimag, but all I get in the emag is click, click, click from the solonoid. Could the solonoid be going bad? Is there a quantitative way to check this?
BTW, I put the gold LX spring back in with no change.

Thank you.:D

[BlackVCG]

I usually check the resistance of the solenoid by placing the leads of a DMM to the ends of the two wires for the solenoid to check the resistance. It should be ~ 3.0 ohms.

I have come across a dead solenoid that had the same problem that you're having and its resistance was 0.8 ohms.

[boggerman]

I am getting 1.1 to 1.3 ohms checking at the junction with the board. When I check the solonoid with the valve out, just holding it with a small screwdriver, it will pull when the plunger is not extended fully, but when the plunger is all the way out I can easily hold it and the soloniod just clicks. I guess it would be safe to say that it is shot.:(


THANK YOU for your help with this.

[USAF-Flyboy with a Mag]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
Make sure your battery is full charged. Check it with a multimeter. It should be above 18V.

If the valve is gummy, the solenoid might not have enough power to pull the sear. Oil the on/off pin and clean out the o-ring in the center of the on/off (it accumulates a lot of dirt) and if you're running one of the gray springs for LX, try the gold spring.

So if the battery is below 18V the solenoid wont fire on a regular basis in a rapid fire situation correct? I'm not hearing a clicking sound when I pull the trigger. When I switch the gun into manual mode, it fires fine. When I tested the battery with my voltmeter I was getting 17.75 volts.

[BlackVCG]

Do you have the black quad on/off top o-ring in your E-Mag valve? If not, that can cause a "pin stick" issue during rapid fire.

[USAF-Flyboy with a Mag]

Yes I do. I charged the battery fully. Threw it on the voltmeter got a reading of 19.2v Aired up the gun and it fires fine. 17.75 volts would seem plenty to trigger the solenoid wouldn't it? The reason I'm asking is because after a couple thousand shots the voltage is going to be rt back down to the 17.75 range and I know the battery should be good for much more then a couple thousand shots.

[boggerman]

I just finished soldering the solenoid to the board. The gun rips like new! The soldering job was a little trickier that I anticipated, but it went ok. I just need to find some unwitting victim to light up this weekend to make sure it is going to perform under heat of battle.

Thanks for all the help Black VCG.:)