PDA

View Full Version : ULE Trigger wont' shoot, need assistance



openboater
07-18-2003, 08:48 PM
OK, guys. While at the IAO I bought a ULE trigger from one the the guys that attended the Tech Conference. Then I bought a new X valve from AGD and had AGD install the ULE trigger (should really be called the ULE ON/OFF) in the valve. When I got home I put the new valve in my gun and no shoot. I put in the original ON / OFF and the valve shoots fine.

I need some assistance from somebody that attented the Tech Conference and was educated in the ways of the ULT please.

openboater
07-21-2003, 07:32 AM
Help please.

Blennidae
07-21-2003, 08:44 AM
Since both the X-valve and the ULE trigger are new, put the stock on/off back in and get the valve working correctly first. The X-valves do need to have the level 10 tweaked before use. Once its running like a champ, then install the ULE trigger. Its hard to trouble shoot 2 problems at the same time.

openboater
07-21-2003, 09:25 AM
I did put original on-off back in, and the gun shoots fine (see first post).

What ' rules of thumb' were taught in class ?

valve charges and pushes back on trigger, but does not shoot when trigger is pulled.

What total length should 2 piece on-off pin be ?

what does changing # of shimms do ?

best input pressure ?

any handouts you could scan and put on-line ?

athomas
07-21-2003, 10:33 AM
It could be that the on/off is pushing the on/off pin out but not far enough to allow the front valve chamber to recharge. Try increasing the number of shims. That should open the on/off more while the trigger is at rest.

Dayspring
07-21-2003, 12:41 PM
Ok. I suggest you actually should get the level 10 tuned FIRST. That way you isolate the problem. If you have pressure on the trigger, your carrier is probably too tight or your velocity isn't up enough.

ULE Trigger- the shims are there to alter the point at which the on/off pin seals in the oring. You remember, there are different trigger rod lengths. The new ULT one is a "one size fits all" application. That's why there are shims. (And NO. You cannot use Level 10 shims. They aren't the same.) You have to be REAL careful putting that in b/c the pin WILL bend under finger pressure. Also, locktighting the pin into the support is preferred but not necessary if you are careful. Total length of the pin assembly? Not sure. But you put it in until it doesn't travel any further.

openboater
07-21-2003, 07:56 PM
My level 10 is well tuned. I took it out of my retro and put it in my xvalve. I've been using this LX all season, so I know it well. it's working great.

I have 2 shims installed. That's all I've got. I will call AGD to get more shims and advice in the morning.

Thank you for your help.

Forgot to mention, I am using new y-grip and ULE body. But hey, it's all AGD !! in fact the only parts that are old are rail and sear pin. (and LX for testing).

openboater
07-23-2003, 06:16 AM
I talked with AGD Tech Line. they told me to add shims, but not too many. Too many shims will cause the gun to go full auto and do damage to the bolt.

Tech Support said it is ok to use Level X shims, they are .010 thick and ULT shims are .005 .

I added 1 LX shim to the 2 ULT shims and the gun is shooting fine now. I will start tweaking the trigger with different combinations of shims.

The trigger pull is quite lite, very nice for a starting point.