ULT performance reviews

[Halliday]

Just wondering, how is the ULT working out for people? I am considering buying one, but I'd rather have all the Superbolt I-ULE body-problems worked out before I spend my cash.

Thoughts? Impressions? Tips and tricks?

[Jerhew]

go here
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=96538&goto=newpost

and here
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=96039&goto=newpost

more ult info than you can shake a stick at

[Halliday]

Well, that kinda helped :(

BlackVCG's is more about installing and tuning.
The other is mostly "Yeah I just bought it CHUFF" stuff.

[Jerhew]

sorry
basically
i've seen 3 people have serious problems they haven't as of yet figured out
no telling if it was user error, setup problems unrelated to the ult or problems with the upgrade itself

other than that everyone else seems to be loving it

me personally
i've only been able to shoot a few rounds through it
but i definitely like it
it does take a bit of getting used to and yes you can short stroke it(especially if not setup right) but overall
i havent broken a ball
i think i'll be able to get some extra bps out of it
but it'd no electro...despite putting in a rear trigger stop(made it hella short) it's still not walkable for me
(i dont recommend nor endorse trigger stops as i believe they void your warranty)

[Bad_Dog]

ooooooooh,

I love mine, trigger sems to be like barely there since I'm used to the heavier pull... It's another "must have" along with the lvl 10...

I ended up using 4 lvl shims and 5 ULT shims though, and installed it one shim at a time, so it took a while, but it was just time well spent:)

[speeddemon]

Its amazing, you HAVE to get it. I just got my X-valve today (had the ULT since last week). After getting everything set up, which was confusing since I decided to put the LX and the ULT on at the same time, It worked great. It is very light, and feels great. I still need to change the carrier to fix a barrel leak, but it shoots amazing. I only short stroked once, and haven't got any bolt stick. You will love it im sure.

[FutureMagOwner]

i think most people have problems with it because they think they can adjust the trigger rod now or that they can put trigger stops on it.

[FalconGuy016]

I really want to know how people are doing with it with classic valves

[silentdeath55]

I put mine in a classic valve about 2 weeks ago(when they first hit the floor) and played with it the first weekend I had it. Let me tell you, that thing rocked, even with a classic valve. Bad_dog has his in a classic valve too.

[Z-man]

Not to hijack the thread but how's the reactivity on the RT/Xvalves? same? less? MUCH less? is the bounce even noticable?

[TheJester]

A trigger stop is almost a must. I have some serious shims in mine, if i put any more shims in it won't fit right, i have 3 lvl 10 shims, and 2 ULT shims in. with it set up like that the trigger is VERY touchy, i can walk it no problem, no short stroking, not chuffing, no double feeding, no problems. Now, yes i said i can walk it, but just cause i can walk it doesn't mean i can walk it as fast as an electro, honestly i'm not gaining much, if any ROF by walking than when i would fan it on my old set up it's just a little easier to walk than fan i think. In normal fire i have noticed a slight increase of ROF but i still have yet to get used to the feel of it, and honestly i haven't normally shot it much cuase it's so fun to walk . the little piece of paper with instructions on it said to add shims until it double fires, or goes full auto, and i kept adding shims untill i noticed there was a tolerence problem, so i removed the shim that created that problem and left it there. the only problem i have with it is sometimes i'll get bolt stick. but the bolt stick is due to my trigger stop, not from the ULT kit. I don't really consider the bolt stick much of a problem really, because it's a user error, it's from short stroking it, if i try to pull the trigger slow, then when it fires, if i don't release the trigger fast enough and all the way, i'll get some bolt stick. and because i have a set screw (placed right below the cut out for the sear pin. i forget the size, but it's a size or 2 below a 6-32, the real tiny ones that take the .05 allen wrench) sticking about a 3/16 of an inch out from my trigger, i can't reset it just by pulling the trigger. but the bolt stick isn't a problem in normal fire, the only time it occured was when i was pulling it slowly to find the spot where it fired. i still have yet to play a game with it, that's sunday, but i shot 2 tanks of air dry firing it, and i dumped a hopper with it. no problems yet.

I'm also gonna say it, don't mess with your trigger rod, once you take the safety off, the trigger rides on the trigger rod, so adjusting it won't take any of the forward slack. your best bet for shortening the trigger pull is either self discipline or with a set screw in the trigger, and it really doesn't require much to do. to do it right it takes some tools, but you can get it done with a hammer, a pin punch, drill press, drill, and tap.

another note on the trigger stop, the thing with installing a set screw as a trigger stop, any time you want to take the valve you out you have to use a small pick or something to push the trigger rod all the way back, you can no longer just simply pull the trigger.

if i've forgotten anything, let me know, either post up, or IM me..... TheJester493

*edit*

Z-man: I have an x-valve and the reactivity is kind of adjustable. when you add/remove shims your in effect, adjusting the pin length, the less shims, the more reactive. it does lose quiet a bit, but mine still has enough for my tastes. though all i did when i got it was took the installed shims out, then added shims to the point where i like it, now that means i haven't played around with it too much, so any 1, please correct me if i'm wrong. But what it appears to do is with no shims, you have a slightly reduced reactivity (prolly about the same as with a 700 PSI input, give or take) but is lighter. the more shims you add, the less reactive it gets, but the more "thouchy" it gets, it doesn't really get lighter the more you add, but it gets more touchy. this answer your question z-man?

[speeddemon]

Mine is pretty reactive, of course Im coming straight from a classic, so I have no clue what a normal X/RT valve is like. But it is reactive enough to keep you from short stroking. And about the trigger stops, there is plenty of room to put a trigger stop in, although I have yet to try it. In the classic valve I couldn't get mine adjusted well, although I didn't play around with it much. If you have a classic valve, its up to you, Im would say go retro first.

[afrankart]

I haven't had much time or air to adjust mine, but I have 3 lx shims and i ult shim in. I have noticed however, when I am down to 2000 psi in my tank or less, I start to get some bolt stick.

[acecl22]

the 2000psi in your tank causing the bolt stick should be void from you list of possible culprits as your tank regulates the pressure down to probably about 800psi, so until you get down to 799psi or less you shouldnt notice any difference what so ever

[afrankart]

I should correct myself... I do get some boltstick if I "chuff" it even with a full tank, it is just more frequent the emptier my tank gets. I am thinking this is a problem with my airflow, not my Ule Trigger, but it is frustrating, none the less. It feels great, shoots nice, but I really can't afford to turn off and take off my halo in the middle of a game to be able and reset my bolt. Once a day of play is way too much for me. Looks like I will have some more testing and tuning to do.

[Halliday]

This is the info I wanted. Thanks.

[TheJester]

best cure for bolt stick: invest in a slide check, or a proconnect, if you have an issue w/ bolt stick during a game, stead of inserting something to push the bolt back, just slide up the slide check, venting all air from the valve, then simply slide it back into place, to regass up your valve. takes a whole .6 seconds to do, no lost ball(s), less frustration, easy fix, all you do is loose the .6 seconds of game time, and a chamber worth of air. let the spring do the work, not you, just remove the air real quick like so the spring can do the work

[acecl22]

when you do that does the slide check cut off the air coming from the tank so that you dont lose any air from your tank

[afrankart]

Correct me if I am wrong, but you can't use a slide check with macro, right?

[openboater]

Once I got it working, I've had absolutely NO problems,

and yea, I'M THE GUY THAT ADJUSTED MY ROD LENGTH AND PUT IN A STOP!!

my trigger is working great, I've monitored the bolt and absolutely no problems. Without the above adjustments, a mag trigger is like the WONDER SHIFTER IN A 1957 INTERNATIONAL PICKUP , sloppy as all hell, you wonder what gear you're in.

But hey, that's only my opinion.

[Jerhew]

Originally posted by afrankart
Correct me if I am wrong, but you can't use a slide check with macro, right?

yah you can...
but it's just not so easy to find a straight macro fitting
they're usually elbow fittings
which will still work...but it might look a bit silly :)

[Jerhew]

Originally posted by openboater
Once I got it working, I've had absolutely NO problems,

and yea, I'M THE GUY THAT ADJUSTED MY ROD LENGTH AND PUT IN A STOP!!

my trigger is working great, I've monitored the bolt and absolutely no problems. Without the above adjustments, a mag trigger is like the WONDER SHIFTER IN A 1957 INTERNATIONAL PICKUP , sloppy as all hell, you wonder what gear you're in.

But hey, that's only my opinion.

i have to agree
but i just put a trigger stop in without adjusting the rod;
makes a huge difference...
although now you have to stick a credit card or something in behind the trigger to push the on/off pin up in order to slide the valve out(i believe someone else already mentioned this)

you can adjust the trigger rod but
you just have to be careful not to lenghten the rod so much that it doesnt let the sear return completely
there was such little room between the rod and the trigger that i didnt bother

[Meph]

I debated putting in a trigger stop. But for now, I'm leaving it as it is. I can fire pleanty fast as it is without the stop, so currently I see no need.

And overall, first view for me is great! Of course, I had mine working right from the factory without having to adjust the shims. So I think I've been quite lucky. I was afraid I'd have to use all the shims from what I've been reading here. But nope, didn't have to add one.

[speeddemon]

As far as a trigger stop goes I think I have come to the same conclusion as Meph. The trigger is pretty snappy. At least I am goin to play with it for a few weeks and then decide.

I am able to walk the trigger, although it easn't near as easy as my friends excalibur. Right now anyways I wouldn't be able to do it in a game very effectively, but with practice I would be able to. Tommorrow will tell though.