In this section I will cover every possible problem I can think of or that I have encountered. I will continue to add to it as I remember and/or come across new bugs.
If your marker has any type of problem with it, the first thing you should do is check that your tank is full, look over all the o'rings, make sure every o'ring and part is installed in the proper order, make sure everything is clean and oiled.
Major and Minor Air Leaks -
When determining how to stop a leak, you must first find out where it's coming from. This will help isolate what's wrong.
1. A leak out of the velocity adjuster hole -
There's a number of things that could do this. The most common is a bad reg piston or you are over pressurizing the reg so it relieves pressure to keep the valve from shooting hot(try turning down the velocity or making sure the air tank isn't pumping out an extremely high amount of pressure). Other possible problems are a bad reg piston o'ring(check it and grease it), or too low of a velocity setting(try turning up the velocity). You will also get a leak if you do not pressurize the valve fast enough or there isn't enough pressure to seal the valve itself.
2. (RT/RTP/Xvalve) A leak out of the side hole of the valve assembly(pictured below) -
This is a safety blow off feature made to keep the Retro quick recharge from becoming the supersonic ball slinger(no it wouldn't be that bad).(Replace your reg. valve pin)
3. (RT) A leak from the rail/banjo bolt area -
Check and replace your banjo bolt o'rings.
4. A leak from the On/Off area -
First make sure everything's installed properly, if you are using the ULT you may have too many shims installed. Check that your on/off pin is not bent or broken(non ULT should measure A.I.R./RT .750", RTP .765"). For the RT/RTP/Xvalve you may have to clean or replace the o'ring that's inside the on/off assembly, it unscrews into two pieces. If none of this helps, look to see that your trigger rod length(A.I.R./RTP 1.998" RT 1.945") is ok and pointing where it should be.
5. A leak from the front end of the valve or the bolt/breech area -
This could also be a number of things. Whether your running a level 7 or 10 set-up, I recommend checking those sections first. Also check your on/off pin(non ULT shoud measure A.I.R./RT .750", RTP .765"). If after you have checked those areas and know everything is installed properly, continue reading. A bad bolt spring, sear, or trigger rod length(A.I.R./RTP 1.998" RT 1.945") can give you a massive leak down the front. There's also a two rare problems that can be wrong. If your running a level 10 set up, check your bolt bumper for wear, if the inner ring has begun to shred, pieces of it may be getting stuck in between the powertube and the bolt. The other problem may be a cracked powertube, if this is the case, you probably wont even be able to see the crack, but you will have to send the valve in to the factory to get it replaced(remember to call and get an RA number).
Marker Wont Cycle at All or Wont Cycle Reliably -
First things first, whether you are running a level 7 or 10 set-up, check those sections first. Next step is to make sure you have a full tank , your velocity is turned up enough, and the marker is oiled. If it seems you cant get your velocity high enough, your reg spring pack may be shot or binding(try turning it up all the way and then turning it back out). Make sure your rail bushing is installed. If the trigger rod is pressurizing, check the rod for the proper 1/16" gap behind the trigger when the trigger is forward(and/or check for proper trigger rod length)(A.I.R./RTP 1.998" RT 1.945"). A simple mistake is a field strip screw that is too tight or too loose(especially if the valve is too reactive(RT/RTP/Xvalve) just past hand tight is fine).
As far as the rest of the back side of the valve, your reg valve pin's spring pack may be shot, or there may be debris inside the valve. To cover the on/off area, if your running a ULT(see ULT section) or not, check to see that your on/off pin is not bent, has any burrs, or is of improper length(non ULT should measure A.I.R./RT .750", RTP .765"). On the RT/RTP/Xvalve on/off, the inner assembly o'ring may have collected dirt, check it by unscrewing the the assembly apart. If you recently installed a new valve, on/off, or on/off pin, your pin may be too long.
To check the front side of the valve, look for debris between the powertube and bolt. As far as the rest of the marker, if you have installed a new trigger frame, check that the grip screws are not touching the trigger rod when it moves. Make sure that the sear axle pin is not overly tightened. If you have installed a Dye trigger frame, now you know that they suck, get rid of it. I've personally seen markers that are so dirty between parts that they are out of tolerance, another point is that if you just had any of your marker parts painted, powdercoated, or bead blasted, you now know that it could also effect tolerance(if possible, remove the paint/powdercoating in between the frame/rail and between the rail/body. Aside from all this, you might have a bent rail or body(all it takes is a few thousands), send it to me or the factory to figure out.
Marker Chops or Breaks Too Much Paint -
If you are running a level 10 set up, see that section first. Another important section to look at is Nubbins and Ball Detents. Besides that, there are few things that would make you frequently chop or break paint. Make sure your not short stroking. If your not running a level 10 set-up, you might need a faster loader or to change the batteries out in your current loader. Finally, make sure your paint fits your barrel. If none of this does the job, you need to dish out a few more bucks on some quality paint, or try and buy fresher paint.
Marker is Erratic Over the Chronograph -
Good Normal readings are anywhere plus or minus 10fps over the chrono. If your getting a difference of over 100fps, check your detent(see Nubbins and Detents), if your severely spiking and using Co2(A.I.R. valve) then liquid is getting inside of your valve. If you think it might be the valve, first dry fire to make sure it's cycling properly. Check the valve for debris. Make sure it's oiled. If nothing helps replace your reg. seat. Something you have to realize when chorno'ing is that most velocity fluctuations are caused by a bad paint to barrel match or poor quality paint(expensive paint is expensive for a reason). When I personally use good fresh paint, I will get a +/-0 reading over the chronograph, as soon as I go cheap, I will see a difference of up to 15fps.
Misc -
1. A stuck barrel (twist-lock) -
If it's usually hard to get out, try loosening the allen screw under the twist-lock assembly, that will put less tension on the locking pin. The locking pin may be bent(get a new one) or the barrel may have developed a burr that needs to be removed.
Twist-Lock Assembly
2. Removing the trigger from the frame -
If you would like to remove the trigger from the frame to replace it with another, you will need a drift pin. Hit the trigger pin from the right side of the frame. When reinstalling a trigger, hit the pin from the left side.
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