AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
will keep in touch on the build or sell thing ok I am interested.just so I know what might something like this run? I may need as many as 3 eventualy 6 as if it works out I would like to put the wjhole team in mags
as for my idea I dont mean to build a new rail per say I mean you know how the spider frame just bolts to the body right ?
ok the mag needs the rail really just to hold the parts together and prevent the on/off pin from comming out.
ok this is what I was wondering :
could you use a thin but sturdy piece of metal to keep the on/off pin in place and to mount the forword grip.
if you have a cocker threading you dont need the twist assembly right so whats left to hold together the valve which the rear bolt should hold in place.
simply put imagine a rail say classic and just see the top 16" of an inch across the rail now if it conforms to the top the bottom should match up good with a spider frame , no ?
then you just need to mod the solinoid and fit the mag sear right or am I missing some thing?
just thought it would save time and keep the new grip cleaner as you dont have to grind away the top...
maybe wouldn`t work just wondering if you thought of it.
I see what you are saying now, you have to rember though that besides keeping everything togeter, it also holds the sear in the right spot. You would have to machine a new rail, but trust me, grinding the top off the frame is much easier. As far as being cleaner, its not that hard to smooth it out, also I have a powder coater near me that I know pretty well.
How much different are the semi-new Spyder Rocking Trigger frames versus the older ESP frames? They are claiming up to 30 BPS on their stock board. It does look from the picture to be a different style of trip on the sear.
Just a thought but have you looked into a hyperframe from centerflag, they arent made anymore but you can still find them at Ebay, AO, etc they are more expensive but they are drop on so you dont have the extra work and expense of converting a spyder frame.
Also, there is a link there to my PBN thread on how to make one.... Let me know if you're interested. If not, good luck with making your own. Let me know if you need any help.
thanks.
Bryan
Phantom Regiment
Team Mag Daddies
CPPA Member
Sponsored by Paintball Quest
Primary Marker: Black Alias
Secondary Marker: XSF SpyderMag
X-Valved (of course) with Level X and ULT
Black Center Feed ULE with Halo B
Logic milled rail, Evil Pipe kit
68/4500 CrossFire @ 850 PSI
An easier mod to the spyder frame is where u just reverse the noid.
thats debatable. At least half a dozen people that did the reverse noid mod have e-mailed me telling me if they had to do it again they would mod the sears because reversing the noid took so much work. When I did mine, I looked at reversing the noid and decided that moding the sears would be easier. I've only talked to one person who has tried both and he says moding the sears is less work if you have the stuff to do it.
Bryan
Phantom Regiment
Team Mag Daddies
CPPA Member
Sponsored by Paintball Quest
Primary Marker: Black Alias
Secondary Marker: XSF SpyderMag
X-Valved (of course) with Level X and ULT
Black Center Feed ULE with Halo B
Logic milled rail, Evil Pipe kit
68/4500 CrossFire @ 850 PSI
Anyone know where I can pick one of the ESP frames up for cheap? :)
try ebay and pbn forums... I've seen used ones for between $50-$75.
Most places sell them new for around $95 the last time I checked.
also, look in the used marker forums for complete spyders. sometimes they are just as cheap as just the frame.
Bryan
Phantom Regiment
Team Mag Daddies
CPPA Member
Sponsored by Paintball Quest
Primary Marker: Black Alias
Secondary Marker: XSF SpyderMag
X-Valved (of course) with Level X and ULT
Black Center Feed ULE with Halo B
Logic milled rail, Evil Pipe kit
68/4500 CrossFire @ 850 PSI
could you mod an intelliframe to accept the electronics of the spyder frame? also, does this require the ULT and if so, how well does it work with a classic valve? I noticed that one of the pics on this thread is using a classic valve. give some specs on it, please. thanks a million. I need a winter project. would prefer not to have to use a spyder frame.
could you mod an intelliframe to accept the electronics of the spyder frame? also, does this require the ULT and if so, how well does it work with a classic valve? I noticed that one of the pics on this thread is using a classic valve. give some specs on it, please. thanks a million. I need a winter project. would prefer not to have to use a spyder frame.
moding an intelliframe to hold the electronics, if possible, would be a ton of work.
The spydermag mod does require the ult to work properly. The spyder noid is not powerful enough to provider the 3lbs of force required to trip the stock on/off. It will fire it, but it will be slow and eat batteries and wear out the noid.
You can do the spyder mod with a classic if your classic will accept a ULT. But the classic will not keep up with the increased ROF. Unless you are really slow.
The Kingman Frame used on spyders is actually pretty decent if you replace the trigger and grips. I suggest a slasher trigger and dye stickys.
Hope that helps.
Bryan
Phantom Regiment
Team Mag Daddies
CPPA Member
Sponsored by Paintball Quest
Primary Marker: Black Alias
Secondary Marker: XSF SpyderMag
X-Valved (of course) with Level X and ULT
Black Center Feed ULE with Halo B
Logic milled rail, Evil Pipe kit
68/4500 CrossFire @ 850 PSI
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