One Legged T-Rex (OLTR)

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  • luke
    replied
    Originally posted by Loguzzzzzz
    I meant out the back of the cheater not the frame. . . .
    I know, wasn't implying anything, just trying to be clear as possible.

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  • Loguzzzzzz
    replied
    Originally posted by luke
    The oring and the system as a whole contains the ram and trigger rod. Yes, the ram will pop out the body if it's not installed in the marker and you trigger the valve, but it actually doesn't get blown/blasted out the back, lol.
    I meant out the back of the cheater not the frame. . . .

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  • G Squat
    replied
    Originally posted by luke
    Not sure what you mean by toggle, but the ram is returned by the sear.
    So, as long as you have the trigger pulled back, the ram will stay back?

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  • luke
    replied
    The oring and the system as a whole contains the ram and trigger rod. Yes, the ram will pop out the body if it's not installed in the marker and you trigger the valve, but it actually doesn't get blown/blasted out the back, lol.

    I've thought about a spring return which would contain and return the ram, just waiting to do more testing. So far it's been working great but I haven't had enough air to hammer on it yet.

    My compressor is in route.

    If the design doesn't pan out I'll toss it, but the testing up to this point has been promising...

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  • Loguzzzzzz
    replied
    It appears that there is nothing holding the ram into place. Is it safe to assume that if you pull the trigger with out the sear in place that the ram will be blown out the back?

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  • luke
    replied
    Not sure what you mean by toggle, but the ram is returned by the sear.

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  • G Squat
    replied
    Quick question, likely a stupid one... The ram doesn't "toggle" does it? Still stays out until the trigger is released, like standard pneu-setups?

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  • jame4091
    replied
    Well that's good news, cant wait to see this in action!

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  • luke
    replied
    Originally posted by flampaint
    do you have a rough estimate as to what you'd charge for milling an Intelli in order to make this fit?
    I am quite sure i'll be getting at least two of these by now...
    It won't be much, probably my minimum which is mostly a setup fee.

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  • flampaint
    replied
    do you have a rough estimate as to what you'd charge for milling an Intelli in order to make this fit?
    I am quite sure i'll be getting at least two of these by now...

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  • maverick13
    replied
    Very nice.
    It will be perfect in my armada !

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  • luke
    replied
    Probably, but I wanted to avoid having to fiddle with custom ground screws. I considered set screws, but they were actually a bad fit with the current design of grip panels, plus thin walls on the frame and valve made that a bad idea. It didn't sense to redesign the panels or valve to solve that problem. A mounting tab solves those issues and mounts the valve in the exact place it needs to be. No adjusting or fiddling or concern, just screw it down and your done.


    One screw to hold the mount tab in and one screw to hold the valve.




    An intergraded mounting tab into the design of the frame will make the mount 70% smaller and tucked back and out of the way.



    The cut cutout around the set screw (RHS) is a grip screw relief so you don't have to have a special length screw.

    Last edited by luke; 03-11-2015, 07:13 PM.

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  • zondo
    replied
    Originally posted by Merce
    Possible. But I believe somewhere earlier in the thread was mentioned the thinness of the walls and how unneeded pressure could eventually lead to failure. Correct me if I'm wrong though
    Yep, found it.

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  • Merce
    replied
    Originally posted by zondo
    Couldn't you use slightly longer grip screws to hold the valve in?
    Possible. But I believe somewhere earlier in the thread was mentioned the thinness of the walls and how unneeded pressure could eventually lead to failure. Correct me if I'm wrong though

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  • zondo
    replied
    Couldn't you use slightly longer grip screws to hold the valve in?

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