Guys,
Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.
AGD
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Guys,
Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.
AGD
Here's my issue with the my level 10. I can get the modification to work in my classic RT with only the short spring (it's the same as the stock one). Attempts at using the middle and long ones have failed as the reg piston would just start venting. The carrier I am using is the 1.5 one and the pt piston slides into the pt and inside the pt o-ring just right - not too loose not too tight (the #2 spacer leaked). The problem is the bolt still feels like it's going pretty fast [to chop a ball] with the short spring on it as I have felt it by shooting against my finger. Any helps on how I could get a softer setup?
AGD: You need to replace your regulator piston. It is venting at too low a pressure.
Have you chronoed the marker? You need to turn up the "velocity" when installing level 10. You very well may be shooting down in the 250s.
I found that after putting two cases of paint through my new Level 10 kit that i developed a very slight leak in the power tube from time to time. I removed the o-ring carrier and installed the next smallest size and the leak stopped. Apparently the o-ring "broke in" and was a tiny bit too loose.
This isn't really a problem but more of a question.
I noticed that you said to put the cut end of the middle spring on the bolt and put the good end pointing out. Would there be any noticeable difference if you switched it around?
I put in the smallest carrier and it still leaks. the smallest one is no lines no dots right? Could something else be leaking? nothing was leaking before Level 10.
Please Help Me
AGD: Take out all your shims and try it again.
How long will it take for the both longer springs to weaken (they are another material than the original short one)? When must the spring be renewed?
AGD: They should last years.
Manuel_FZR: Thanks Tom for the answer.
Do you have any shims in? If so, that them all out. Put them back one a time, checking for leaks. Make sure everything is oiled. Also, check the condition of the black oring on the outside of the carrier. If you put the carrier in without oil it is possible to damage the oring. Let us know.Quote:
Originally posted by Minimag2002
I put in the smallest carrier and it still leaks. the smallest one is no lines no dots right? Could something else be leaking? nothing was leaking before Level 10.
My friends level 10 came in today, and in the process of putting it together, we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through... are we doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the kit?
Any help is appreciated,
CenterFire
EDIT - Sorry thats its in the wrong forum. Mods feel free to scoot it over to Tech. Hoping to get an answer faster in the more crowded forum is all :p
Link to my problem post:
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...&postid=387573
BlackVCG is sending me some parts that hopefully should get me up and running. (Reg Piston Assembly)
Yes.Quote:
Originally posted by Cypres0099
This isn't really a problem but more of a question.
I noticed that you said to put the cut end of the middle spring on the bolt and put the good end pointing out. Would there be any noticeable difference if you switched it around?
I tried doing that when I was first trying to set mine up. At first I thought that I was having trouble putting my valve assy. in, but when I investigated, it turned out that the spring had actually threaded past where it is supposed to stop, and into the breach. This would definitely not help in preventing ball chops. By placing the cut end against the bolt, you give it a good surface to seat against where it won't thread through.
It doesn't/shouldn't go in that far. Are you using the new power tube tip that came with the level 10 kit? How far does the power piston extend past the end of the bolt (it should only be about a 1/2 inch or so)?Quote:
Originally posted by CenterFire
we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through...
Here is a link to a cut away view of the new bolt (so you can see if yours is the same):
https://www.automags.org/forums/attac...&postid=362082
When I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. And yes I'm using the new powertube tip. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is.
Edit - And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...
[QUOTE]Originally posted by CenterFire
[B]My friends level 10 came in today, and in the process of putting it together, we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through... are we doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the kit?
Any help is appreciated,
CenterFire
AGD: This is very strange, see if it will go over the old power tube tip. If it will see if the new pt tip goes into the original bolt.
I posted you question in the official problems thread. Here is a link to the thread:
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...019#post389019
Ok thanks... anyone with any help, feel free to reply to the quote in the official problems thread or here if you're lazy :rolleyes:
As clarification, when I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is. And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...
oh just thought i let you know that i am his friend he was refering to. you can e-mail me at [email protected]
Are you using SBII or the regular one?
You have to use SBII.
OK i have taken my mag down to the aother mag guys at the field today and the bolt fits on there lvl ten. they said that my powertube tip was machined wrong.
No it does not go on the old powertube tip when the origanl powertube is assembled, but yes the new powertub tip goes on the original bolt.
Oh yeah i changed my fourm name hope ya dont mind:)
AGD: call us for a replacement bolt.
okay my leaked was fixed when i figured the added pressure in my macro was to much and caused a leak in the connector, (fixed with teflon tape). anyway now i have the 1.5 carrior, and when i try to shoot the marker it shoots then the bolt just starts leaking and won't stop untill i push it back with my battle swab. i have tried diffrent shims and nothing helps im using the original spring and don't have a chrono but im about 2-3 turns out.
P.S.sorry but the tech part of paintball is not my strong side:confused:
AGD: It sounds like your on/off pin is too short. If you fire and hold the trigger does it leak? If not then did you use the backing washer all the way in the bottom?
EDIT: Thank You So Much For The Help Tom YOu Were Right As Usual It Was My On/off pin it got snapped after pulling the valve out. Thanks Again
Hey guys, My powertube tip had a crack in it and it let go.
When i was finger tightening it into the PT the tip snaped off.
Has anyone else incountered this problem or did i just get a bad one?
Any help would be great.
AGD: Call the factory for a replacement.
I am having the same trouble. I can not even get through a game with out having to push my bolt back to get it running. I am using 1.5 carrier, the medium spring, and 3 shims. 4 shims and the gun leaks down the barrel. I have tried the longest spring with the same outcome of bolt stick. I can not trust the gun in a tournament as of right now. Need Help....
thanks
AGD: Try the shortest spring, if that doesnt work you might have to call us for an RA.
I know this sounds stupid but should i call the front office or tech support:rolleyes:
-edit- also which department should i go to from automated telephone menu. I am new at this
AGD: call tech support. they have their own phone # you can look it up on airgun.com I dont have it.
I think I found yout my problem. It was not in the level 10 it was in the hyperframe that I was using... I am running a normal 45 frame and all my troubles went away. Thank you for the fast response AGD...:D
Ever since i put the level 10 on my velocity has gone to hell. Its wierd, w/ the regular bolt it's like -5/+5 or so. I did the break in procedure, am using longest spring w/ 1.5 carrier and 1 shim. I have a han held chrono that i used. After seeing it fluctuate i thought it was the chrono. So i chronoed at the field on saturady, 265,260,285,270,255. It was kinda grose. I chronoed real low so not to asses any penalties. I was wondering if there's anthing i can do. I keep everything lubed well. Also if i put in a 1.0 carrier, that will slow down the bolt more, right??
AGD: If you use too small a carrier it will add too much friction to the system. This leads to variable velocity. Go with the largest carrier that doesnt leak.
dyerules: Thanks for the quick answer!!! But if i was to put in a larger carrier, wouldn't that increase the bolt force???
I put in the LVL 10 worked fine, then yesterday a slight hiss would occur, so light I was not sure where it was coming from. I noticed when I put the trigger p against the pin it would go away and if I let the trigger hang lose it would not. Tried a few different carriers same problem.
Az
AGD: try tightening the field strip screw with a wrench. Your valve is slightly out of alignment.
I can seem to have shoot down rapid firing ion my emag. I tried tinkering with it and chronoing it like an RT in hybrid mode. (velocity e-mode 294 Hybrid 294, 207, 255 , 194)
I installed the level 10 using the #1.5 carrier (#2 carrier leaks) ,the medium and short sping.
please help:confused:
AGD: THis is not a level 10 problem , look at your tank and hoses.
ok, i just got lvl 10 today for my emag. i put it all together and try to go out and shoot it. it wont shoot at all. when i pull the trigger in any mode, it doesnt shoot. what am i doing wrong?
edit: it was the velocity, everything working great now!!!:D
Installed on my RT Pro, Zgrip, stock barrel and PMI Pure energy 3000, 47cu tank. For testing purposes I was using a coiled remote. Ended up with the small spring, two shims and 1-ring carrier.
- On this tank it significantly less efficient, I primarily play indoor leagues with speed at 260. Around 300 left in the tank, it just quits, I now have to fill after every game, where I could ususally last two games w/o filling.
- Been using 1 year cruddy paint to test w/o any breaks, have shot about 1000 rounds of RP Premium w/o any breaks yet.
- Problems that I have encountered are wierd. During my league play I have to get my tank filled every game. So then I would walk right to the chrono and get the speed going 215, 220's. I set it like that for a reason. I would then play the next game 10-15minutes after that. Then during the game, I'd put about 200 rounds through it, and when I would Chrono off it would be high 250's, low 260's. Comming on the field I would be at 220's, 230's. This would happen every game. I don't totally understand the physics behind cooling tanks and velocity, so I know there's a connection to be made, but I don't know where. I am not certain what to do. Any suggestions?
AGD: L10's don't really like to be shot at low velocity. Best bet is to get a really short barrel and reduce your velocity that way and still maintain pressure.
Ok I put in about 800psi into the gun and setup my mag according to the instructions but my bolt won't move when I fire the gun. When I put in a loose carrier it leaks like the instructions said and when I hold down the trigger it stops....i've messed with the springs and made sure the carrier wasn't too tight...it just won't fire the bolt whats going on?!
-Voodoo
No expert on this, but have you tried turning up the velocity?
I believe many have had to turn their velocity up, more so than normal, for the marker to fire with the lvl 10 kit.
Well I took apart my gun and looked at what might have caused it...and well...let me just say that the only main spring that worked in my kit was the small one that came attached to the bolt...after I had my gun shooting at 280...the other two main springs wouldn't fire. I can't really say how I fixed my problem..but it wasn't velocity, I had it way up. After putting oil in it, made sure the carrier O-ring fit properly and tossed in two shims it started to barely more forward...I then cranked my velocity back up and it started shooting..but I think the bolt could be tuned to be slightly lighter on paint. What the problem may have been was just stupidity on my part and I had one of the grey main springs on in the first place.
I'm using:
Classic Mag/ Classic body
CO2
Setup:
1.5 carrier 3 shims
SHORTEST (brass) spring
Problem:
Basically the gun would fire, then stop firing. Sometimes when it didn't fire, it would make the ball pinching sound then reset, sometimes the bolt would just not fire at all.
At the crono I was very inconsistent (but probably because of the cool temps and CO2) However when it warmed up during the day, I would crono around 310-320, turn it down, crono at 285 (the field limit). I would fire one or a string of a few, then the bolt wouldn't fire. During one game, the gun would just not fire.
I'm using the shortest spring, and I believe that the velocity issue was supposed to be solved by spring length... what should I do?!?
AGD: Go with the biggest carrier that doesn't leak. Try that.
***EDIT*** 7/26/02
1.5 carrier is the largest carrier that doesn't leak, carrier 2 and 2.5 leak. Any other suggestions? If I can't get it to work, would it be possible to send it into AGD for some work? (I would expect to pay for this)
sigh i finally get my lvl 10 in and i cant seem get it to work correctly...
alright im using an rtpro input pressure @950 (if that makes a difference)
Following the instructions on the site I started with the carrier with 2 grooves on it and no dots.. LEAKED HEAVILY from barrel.. (im talking a 100 psi/a sec).. assuming it was the described barrel leak i upped the velocity hoping it would stop. It actually seemed to get worse right up until the point wher air came out of the back of the gun..
now down to 2500 psi .. i figured it was the wrong carrier... same situation now 2200 psi... went to the 1.5 carrier which very snug on the back of the bolt and got same result yay 1800psi... convinced now that it wasnt the carrier but either the spring and/or shims i began to try diffferent combinations to no avail... i put back in the non lvl 10 componants just to make sure it was the kit and not my gun and my gun worked as normal...
*note i did the thing where you install the lvl10 with no shims and push on the bolt face while its leaking to hear if it changes tone.. and it didnt change at all
So basicaly facts are:
pretty sure I have the carrier picked right (the one wiht one solid line and no dots)
Heavy venting from barrel..... about 100 psi a sec..
No change in springs or increase in velocity made the leak stop or even slow (unless you count when the velocity went up enought to make it vent out back of gun instead of front
gun works fine with Non lvl 10 parts...
ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT I COULD BE DOING WRONG OR WHAT THE PROBLEM IS WOULD BE GREATLY APRECIATED
thanks in advance
*P.S. I watched the video and did the install right,does the AGD tech dept take walk in appointments since I live not even 30 min away?
AGD: Good possibility your bolt pin is not pushed all the way in. There is a big problem, call the office and see if you can come in sometime next week. We can look at it.
Ummm...this is going to sound really weird but my superbolt doesn't even fit into the body. I have the regular longnose bolt for my micromag RT (yes its a micromag body) and a ANS venturi foami, they both fit fine. When I tried putting the superbolt in, you could visibly see the bolt not being able to fit inside the breach area inside the body (where the tube gets smaller to fit the bolt inside the breech). Upon inspecting the superbolt for any deformations I saw that the tip of the bolt appeared "rounded" and had a larger diameter than the rest of the bolt which has caused me to believe this is why it cannot fit inside the breech's inner diameter. Has anyone else ever seen this? I thought to myself that maybe the Micromag's bore size might have been different but then again the AGD longnose bolt fits like a glove...Im not sure what I should do, the bolt doesn't fit. Has anyone else see superbolts with the tips of them slightly swollen or rounded?
edit: ok I just took a piece of emory cloth and rounded off the front edge of the bolt...after I could finally put the bolt in properly the level 10 kit was pretty easy to install...had a few leaks at first but then I just changed the carrier to a tighter fit and it stopped. The level ten works like a dream. I have no problems with bolt stick. No problems with leaking. No problems with velocity. My micromag rt is officially my main gun now. I tried to break paint, used some non brand name crappy field paint...fanned the trigger, shot sideways, turnned the hopper off...shot a half case...not even a barrel break. I used the smallest bolt spring, (lengthwise) and the number 2 carrier(two stripes)
AGD: This happens occasionally when the washer inside the mainbody develops a burr. You need to take a round file and carefully file off the inside edge of the washer.
Ok, I'm still having a bit of problem with my LX.
If any of you recall, I had to find a shorter spring (shorter than the stock one actually). I ended up finding a spring that *just* reached the end of the LX bolt. The gun fires now, without venting out the AIR, however it seems to chop occasionally(sp?). I'm using 1.5 carrier, and I currently have 3 shims (trying to get it to vent sooner)... It'll still leave a good dent in a pencil. Seems it'll bounce two or three times, then *pow* it'll cycle all the way.
Any ideas? it's hard to show off this way :(
AGD: Squid give me all the details of your setup in a new post at the bottom so I see it.
I don't know and didnt read about your old problem but the longer the spring, the more pressure on the bolt to slow it down(hence the softer on paint).
with the longer springs I was having to turn the velocity up so high it was venting out the back of the AIR
have you tried to use a 2.0 carrier?if it does not leak with a 2.0 the bolt can slide easier so you would not have to turn up the velocity as high and you will be able to use a longer spring.(just an idea)