Printable View
I have a AGD Longbow with an X-valve. Worked fine, changed the trigger frame to a single finger CF frame and it developed a leak from the on/off. I’ve replaced all the o-rings with and X valve rebuild kit, I’ve experimented with shims in the ULT on/off but the leak persists. I’ve dumped a ton of oil I to it, oiled the o-rings when they were installed. The mag with cycle just fine, even with the leak. Running a Ninja V2 SHP tank.
What am I missing? Any suggestions? I’m at a loss.
is the on off pin bent? ULT pins are prone to that.
Pin does not appear to be bent. After reading a bunch of old treads it looks like it could be the tiny o-ring on the pin. Will try to source one locally ( I’m in Canada) but if the fails will put in an order with AGD and grabbed a standard in/off as well.
Does it leak when you hold the trigger back after a shot?
No, pretty sure leak stops when trigger is pulled.
If the leak stops when you hold the trigger back then the on/off is ok. Either change the powertube oring or spacer if L7 or go to a smaller L10 carrier using the same carrier oring. Remove all L10 shims if you have any in there. Let us know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdn_Cuda
I did replace power tube O-ring but there are some shims I’ll remove. I don’t have any additional carriers. It’s a full X-valve, so has lv10 bolt, if it makes and difference.
Alrighty, confirmed leak stops when trigger is pulled, but does minorly hiss and seems to stop. I removed the shins from the power tube, with seemingly no change. So it looks like I need to buy a set of carriers and change out the carrier in the power tube?
Yes. Pull the carrier out of the gun using the field strip screw and tell me what the markings on it are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdn_Cuda
There are no markings on the carrier I have.
OK so you have a #0 carrier. You need to go to a #OO and use the same white oring that is in your present carrier. I have them if you need one. Email me at tunaman5@verizon.net
Thanks! I’ve got a buddy sending me some carriers, but if he doesn’t have the size ai need I’ll send you an email.
Finally got a chance to work on this again. Switched to the 00 carrier and still has same issue. Pulled the bolt and tried to the carrier on the bolt. Small sized carriers are really tight, so switch to one that fits “snug” as per directions. Air it up, and yet again same issue. Pushing on the bolt seems to make no difference. Leaks seems to be coming from on/off.
Does it leak if you put the original trigger frame back on?
With the new trigger frame, is there a gap between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod when aired up? It should be about the thickness of a credit card. If not, you’ll need to adjust the trigger rod length.
I switch the trigger frame back to the original intelli-frame and it does not change the leak at all.
Did rail bushing fall out while you were swapping frames? That should be more of a bolt leak.
Worn sear? It needs to be sharp. Pretty much any perceptible radius can cause a small leak.
Are you tightening frame and field strip screws with wrench? Snug, but don’t strip threads. Does tone/pitch of leak change while tightening or loosening screws? This is indicative of alignment issues.
Do you have an RT on/off? Those are less finicky.
Did you change tiny black middle oring and bottom oring? You seem to think it’s still and on/off issue, and trigger back with no leak doesn’t rule out these two orings.
You seem to be following the other related thread, so perhaps you’ve tried these.
And yes, Tuna is always your best bet.
Good option, but being in Canada makes it costly.
Confirmed it is leaking heavily from on/off. With the frame removed I can feel a strong constant stream of air coming from the on/off.
Only oring I have not replaced is the tiny black one in the on/off. Of course it is not included in the mag rebuild kit and very difficult to find, besides ordering from the US.
You did say it still has a minor leak/hiss with the trigger held back when gassed up?
I forget, is the ULT middle oring a 002 buna 70? 90?
Are you just not sure what size you need?
Does AGD or Tuna ship to Canada? theoringstore.com?
Nak: I’ve replaced the standard o-rings with the AGD kit but the tiny black o-ring in the ULT is the one I need. Accord in various oring charts it’s “off the chart small” which isn’t helpful. I can order them directly from AGD though.
Luke: Correct, but hard to order an o-ring when I can’t find a size for it. I’ve got a fairly good collection of orings for rebuilding cockers and various markers, but nothing close to that ULT oring.
Tuna: no leak at all when the trigger is held down. Seals completely.
Pretty sure it’s a 002. If you have calipers or mics, measure the outer diameter of the pin shaft. Match that diameter to ID of the nearest standard/imperial o-ring (not metric).
With minimum order quantity and shipping on the orings, you’ll probably be close to the cost of a standard RT on/off. I would get that and some 002 orings from Tuna or AGD. Try them both (in games, not just tinkering), and sell the one you like less. During the adrenaline of a game, I’ve always preferred the standard RT on/off. It’s a little heavier on the pull, but it’s faster/harder on the reset and a lot less likely to short stroke, which is about the only problem you’ll ever have with a property functioning Mag with properly tuned Level 10.
This isn’t directed at you. It’s just nostalgia. Tom warned us about the drawbacks (short stroking, bent pins, tiny orings, shimming to properly tune) of a ULT decades ago when it was released. Pretty sure he also said he didn’t want to hear any complaining about it when his warnings came to fruition.
Yes, thinking switching to a standard on/off is the best route to go. Thank you, and everyone else, for the help. Really appreciated.