Minimag

[RossRobObey]

Hi, i was looking at buying a minimag and it said on the description that they are the same as the classics but smaller and had a 'virtical asa feed' or something along those lines, just wondered what that ment??
Thanks

Ross

[Dayspring]

The difference between the classic automag & the minimag is the body & the vert ASA. (the part where you put the tank)

The minimag comes with the attachment for it (you could put a tank or a gas thorugh at that point) whereas the classic does not, (but can be purchased and installed).

Funcitonally, same gun in ALL respects except the body & the ASA.

[RossRobObey]

also the barrel is shoter on the minimag, will this make a difference to the accuracy?

[Dayspring]

No, not really...

The best accuracy is found by sizing your barrel bore & paint.

[RossRobObey]

somebody said on another thread that the Minimags have been out longer than the Automag .68 pro classics, could someone confirm this for me? Also someone else said that the Minimags do not come with a foregrip whereas the Pro Classics do, could you also cinfirm this for me please and if any body has got pictures of both of them or just one, i would be grateful.

Thanks

[Dayspring]

Don't worry about length of time out. Aside from the body & ASA, they are the SAME gun.

And correct- pro classics will come with a foregrip, the mini won't.

pics- http://store.airgun.com

somebody said on another thread that the Minimags have been out longer than the Automag .68 pro classics, could someone confirm this for me? Also someone else said that the Minimags do not come with a foregrip whereas the Pro Classics do, could you also cinfirm this for me please and if any body has got pictures of both of them or just one, i would be grateful.

Thanks

[Walrus]

Yes, the Minimag has been out longer than a Pro Classic, but you have to realize as stated previously that they are the "same" gun. Same valve and setup with the exception of a fore grip and bottom line. You will get a slightly longer barrel with a Pro Classic, but the 8" barrel you will get with the Minimag works great. For the price difference of a brand new one off of the AGD site, you get a slightly better deal on a Pro Classic if you compare bone stock to bone stock. (You get a longer barrel, fore grip, and bottomline) In fact, you get a better deal if you order the Pro Classic and upgrade to a Minimag body for $10. You will be spending the same amount as you would on a Minimag, but you will get the longer barrel, foregrip, and bottomline. Again, there is no difference, but the Minimag is smaller becuase it has a shorter barrel and no bottomline. The Pro Classic is just a replacement of the regular 68 Automag Classic and they put on a new body style and different barrel.

[RossRobObey]

thanks, that's cleared alot of things up for me

[RossRobObey]

sorry to nag again (your probably getting annoyed with me now) but is the 'bottem line' where you attach the tank? and what difference will the minimag body do? what does it look like (any piccys?)

[Dayspring]

Pics posted above.

and Yes. bottomline is where you attach the tank. Also called the ASA.

What does the body do? Nothing different than the classic one...

sorry to nag again (your probably getting annoyed with me now) but is the 'bottem line' where you attach the tank? and what difference will the minimag body do? what does it look like (any piccys?)

[Walrus]

You basically need to decide what body you like better and order that one with your Mag. There is no functionality difference in the bodies, just looks and color. I personally really like the Minimag body, but that is because I have loved them since they first came out over 10 years ago. Another thing to think about is that if this is your first Mag, do you want to use the twist lock barrels or Cocker threaded barrels? The reason I ask this is because a ULE body will take cocker threaded barrels, and the Pro Classic and Minimag bodies take twist lock. Just something else for you to think about!!

[RossRobObey]

You basically need to decide what body you like better and order that one with your Mag. There is no functionality difference in the bodies, just looks and color. I personally really like the Minimag body, but that is because I have loved them since they first came out over 10 years ago. Another thing to think about is that if this is your first Mag, do you want to use the twist lock barrels or Cocker threaded barrels? The reason I ask this is because a ULE body will take cocker threaded barrels, and the Pro Classic and Minimag bodies take twist lock. Just something else for you to think about!!

what im trying to ask is which part if the 'body' is i know which bit to look at so i know what one i like best, sorry if i've confused you because to be honset i've confused myself i probably wont worry about changing to ULE bodys because as you can guess in new to having my own paintball gun/marker and will probably mess everything up! also at my local skirmish over here (the UK),on rental days i can only use the automags and minimags and i dont think i am at the level for walk-on days so i don't know if i would be able to use it with the upgrades. so if you could point out on a picture which bit is the actual body then i would be grateful.

Thanks

[Walrus]

Well, if you look at the pics in my post (about 6 posts back) the Minimag is the bottom picture and it has a gray body. Then Pro Classic is the first pic and the body is black. By chance are you able to see the pics I posted?

[ThePixelGuru]

Here's my stab at an explaination of the differences between the Minimag and Pro-Classic.

Mainbodies:
Both the Minimag and Classic have stainless steel mainbodies that take twist-lock barrels. The Minimag has that machine pistol shroud. The Classic doesn't. This is purely cosmetic. Also, the laser engraving on the valve is different, though that's also cosmetic.

Tank Location/Foregrip:
The Minimag mounts the tank where the foregrip on the Classic would be. The Classic's tank is off the bottom of the gripframe like most paintball markers these days. Reportedly, the vertical bottle setup on a stock Minimag slightly assists in keeping liquid CO2 out of the valve. If you take the gas-thru grip off the Classic's vertical ASA (Air Source Adaptor or something like that) you can put a tank there just like the Minimag, though. Similarly, if you add a foregrip and bottomline ASA to the Minimag, you can mount the tank off the gripframe like the Classic. Personal preference should determine where you want the tank mounted. Just go with which seems most comfortable - small setup vs. tank to brace on your shoulder while firing.

Barrels:
The Minimag comes with an unported 8" barrel. The Classic comes with an 11" barrel with a vented stainless steel tip. It's hard to say which will be "better," but they're probably about the same. This is also personal preference. The Classic will probably be a little quieter due to the vented barrel tip, though most people upgrade their barrels pretty quickly. J&J ceramics are a decent choice, though that's another thread entirely.

Basically, just pick one based on personal preference. There's not much real difference when you get down to it, the markers are just set up slightly differently when stock. Hope that helps.

[RossRobObey]

Well, if you look at the pics in my post (about 6 posts back) the Minimag is the bottom picture and it has a gray body. Then Pro Classic is the first pic and the body is black. By chance are you able to see the pics I posted?

yh i can see the pics you posted, so the body is the grey but on the minimag and the black bit on the automag, what was that someone was saying about the twist locks? i read somewhere that the twist lock barrels are not being made as much as the 'autococker' screw type barrel, anypne got an opinion on this?

and thanks alot everybody, dont know what i would of done without you all!!

[ahellers]

if i were you i would buy the classic. if for no other reason that it has a more usefull air bottle set up. the vertical air bottle set up on the minimag isnt very cumfy IMO, you could upgrade it to use the kind the classic has but you should probably play a little and figure out how you want the gun set up. and learn a little about automags. i would also check out the markers fourm here because i think that the classic from the air gun site is a little over priced.

twist locks.
twist lock barrels are not made by most manufactures. there are a few but not many. however if you upgrade to a ULE body(http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=10 ) in the future that will solve the problem. the stock twist lock barrel should be fine untill you decide to upgrade.

one more peace of advice... just jump right in and figure out all the gun stuff. the most harm you could do is waist some money and have some funny stories.
t

[RossRobObey]

it would probably be easier to buy of the AGD site because i live in the UK, i could get it shipped to my aunty then here. even if it is a bit pricey, it is cheap compared to the prices over here. But if i bought from somebody off the Markers forums it could get a bit tricky, but thanks for the help anyway. Now for the nexty part, where would i be able to get my Co2 tank filled up? Obviously at my local skirmish, but i i wouldn't want to travel over there everytime.

Ross

[ahellers]

you could by a buch of co2 tanks and get them all filled. a 20oz tank will last most of a day depending on how much you shoot.
the other option is do what i do. if you have the ability to get HPA (high pressure air) filled (3000PSI, um might be differnt w/ metric) then you could by a scuba bottle and an hpa tank. its a little more expensive to get started but you save money on fills and you get to use air, which is better for your gun and more consistent. also if you do that make sure you get a hpa fill station.

so ether buy a bunch of co2 tanks, or get set up to fill your own air.
t

[RossRobObey]

you could by a buch of co2 tanks and get them all filled. a 20oz tank will last most of a day depending on how much you shoot.
the other option is do what i do. if you have the ability to get HPA (high pressure air) filled (3000PSI, um might be differnt w/ metric) then you could by a scuba bottle and an hpa tank. its a little more expensive to get started but you save money on fills and you get to use air, which is better for your gun and more consistent. also if you do that make sure you get a hpa fill station.

so ether buy a bunch of co2 tanks, or get set up to fill your own air.
t

so there no way i could get the tanks refilled say at my local gas station or something, because other wise i would have to buy a new tank every day i use it?

[RossRobObey]

ahh dont worry about that last post, i now know what you mean, get the tanks filled whenever i go to skirmish, i thought you ment buy a tank get it filled use it then throw it away. but would I be able to get them filled at my local gas station?

[ahellers]

im not sure you under stood. or maby i dont. but what i said is, maby once a month go to the paintball field, and fill like 4-8 co2 tanks, then you should be good for a while. co2 tanks arnt that expensive.

no your gas station shouldnt fill tanks. they probably dont have the right stuff. and air compressers that can hit 3000ps cost like $2000 min and arnt the same thing at air compessers at gas stations, thay only hit maby 100psi. some sporting good stores will also fill co2 tanks for you

you could alwas lookin to tippmanns c-3 if your worried about air fills, it shoot 50,000 round on one small propane tank
t

[RossRobObey]

no your gas station shouldnt fill tanks. they probably dont have the right stuff. and air compressers that can hit 3000ps cost like $2000 min and arnt the same thing at air compessers at gas stations, thay only hit maby 100psi. some sporting good stores will also fill co2 tanks for you

you could alwas lookin to tippmanns c-3 if your worried about air fills, it shoot 50,000 round on one small propane tank
t

yh sorry about that, i do understand what you mean now, i didin't to start with. but thanks, ill probably buy a few more tanks.

Ross

[ahellers]

one more thing you should do to get ready is start to pour through the level 10 faq's so you know how to tune it up when you get it.
t

[RossRobObey]

one more thing you should do to get ready is start to pour through the level 10 faq's so you know how to tune it up when you get it.
t

i've already looked through a few of them but i am geting it fitted when i buy it so.... but ill look more at them beacuse im not sure at all about any of the fine tuning stuff

[RossRobObey]

as the ULE body are only in virtical or warp feed, what other 'decent' bodys are there that take the autococker style barrels, that would fit the Automag .68 Pro Classic? and can u fit the 'expansion chambers' onto the Automag .68 Pro Classics? if so is it hard to do?

[ahellers]

for mag bodys look at themagsmith.com, also look at rails if you want. a rail is the peace between the body and the trigger frame.

as for ex-chambers. they are pritty easy. most have the same specs as a forgrip so you can just replace the forgrip w/one. then fun you line through it. when you buy your gun buy a few macro line kits so you have some extra line and airfittings.http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/...8AAAD_Jz9HHcI7
http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/...cAAAD3O3SlA_2t
t

[RossRobObey]

iv looked on there and coulnd find any, dont suppose youd be able to give me a link or tell me where about they are?

[ahellers]

the links for macroline and ex-camber is in my last post
oh and goto www.themagsmith.com and click accessories or somthin and the bodies will be under RPG and DW
t

[rb211]

You are kinda stuck as far as the body is concerned. If you insist on having a right/left feed, you might be able to find a barrel adapter (mag to cocker), I think Doc's Machine made one a while back. Or you can look for an older pro-team micromag body (one with a removable barrel).

[RossRobObey]

the links for macroline and ex-camber is in my last post
oh and goto www.themagsmith.com and click accessories or somthin and the bodies will be under RPG and DW
t

so how would you fit the ex chamber because the foregrip is there?? if you don't know or can be bothered to explain don't worry