Now what FDA Synthetic Oil for the Automag?

[jtamm]

Got the Super Lube. Working great so far.

Thanks guys.

[georgeyew]

Awesome!

[Konigballer]

I got some too, and I linked this thread to a similar one on MCB to further spread the gosple.

[Spider-TW]

of course you could just dip your gun
in the Frier at KFC if "Food Grade Oil"
is really what your after....

We'll have to specify the temperature and time to make it another mag "can your maker do this" test.

The best part of super lube is it is useful for lots of other stuff too.

[georgeyew]

I bought way too much of the stuff. So I keep a bottle around the house for general lubing and another bottle to lube the chains on my road and mountain bikes. Yes, there are many many uses for them.

[Mindflux]

I know you spent a lot of time testing other oils and this thread is old but here's your K-C with a new name:

http://www.candcsynthetics.com/index.htm

[Mechanic79]

Thanks for the info Mindflux.

And for an update on
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

I've been using it on my 06 Cyborg, 08 ego and Pneumag and haven't replaced one o-ring. many cases of paint through the years, no issues at all.

[Mindflux]

Thanks for the info Mindflux.

And for an update on
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

I've been using it on my 06 Cyborg, 08 ego and Pneumag and haven't replaced one o-ring. many cases of paint through the years, no issues at all.

Yeah it's a heck of a bargain, I just like my K-C Trouble Free.




Just out of curiosity. Have you noticed SLATO-12004 to brown your o-rings? That's one thing I love about KC, the orings keep their color and condition.

[Spider-TW]

I haven't had any discoloration on o-rings with super lube either.

Mechanic79 has a point; I usually use the air tool oil in electros, but use the multipurpose oil in the mechs (it is a little thicker with the teflon). However, I use the multipurpose in my Freestyle 8 electro, since that is the factory recommended lube.

It's nice to have some dependable options again.

[PBCCharlie]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know from the "horse's mouth" that OUTLAST and the old K-C Trouble Free oil IS the same formula. It was originally devloped by scientists in the lubrication business specifically for paintball markers in 1991. The formula was teeked about 8 more times through the years. Even the original formula beat all other lubricants for paintball.

The cheapest...No. The best...Definitely Yes. This oil could have been made cheaper, been adequate to the average player, and have a similar price as others. Some ot the newer paintball oils are transmission fluid concoctions. Most of the older oils are mineral oil based and are not very good. Synthetic oils, unlike other types, can be made to specific applications or for general use. Outlast was made for a specific application. It does work very well on anything that needs oil and is probably of the best with other industries simply because of the expensive ingredients used.

Charlie Segrave
C and C Synthetics

[Mindflux]

Glad to see you here Charlie.

[georgeyew]

Charlie,

I am a big fan of the original KC Trouble Free oil and it sounds like Outlast will also be great. I hope to be ordering some from you soon.

[Alpha {MWB}]

Thanks for the info Mindflux.

And for an update on
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

I've been using it on my 06 Cyborg, 08 ego and Pneumag and haven't replaced one o-ring. many cases of paint through the years, no issues at all.

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know from the "horse's mouth" that OUTLAST and the old K-C Trouble Free oil IS the same formula. It was originally devloped by scientists in the lubrication business specifically for paintball markers in 1991. The formula was teeked about 8 more times through the years. Even the original formula beat all other lubricants for paintball.

The cheapest...No. The best...Definitely Yes. This oil could have been made cheaper, been adequate to the average player, and have a similar price as others. Some ot the newer paintball oils are transmission fluid concoctions. Most of the older oils are mineral oil based and are not very good. Synthetic oils, unlike other types, can be made to specific applications or for general use. Outlast was made for a specific application. It does work very well on anything that needs oil and is probably of the best with other industries simply because of the expensive ingredients used.

Charlie Segrave
C and C Synthetics

So guys i am looking to get some oil to use on all my mags. I have heard 3 options (this OUTLAST being the last to add) that seem to have the most backing and be the best option.
OUTLAST
AUTOLUBE
SUPER LUBE

At this level is it all just the same, its just preference? What about the Other SUPERLUBE on that site with the added Tefelon, would that be a good option as well, or should i stay away from it?

[finnmanpa]

Always loved KC. Looks like I'll order the re-branded Outlast next.

[Spider-TW]

At this level is it all just the same, its just preference? What about the Other SUPERLUBE on that site with the added Tefelon, would that be a good option as well, or should i stay away from it?

I've never seen anything about autolube being synthetic. Years ago, it would discolor o-rings, but I haven't tried any since about '96 (actually, that must have been gold cup). I used to think gold cup and autolube were the same, but idk. Same question for both though. Even highly purified hydrocarbons tend to get to urethane and/or get sticky after a while. I tend to judge the sticky factor by the film that builds up on the outside of the bottle.

The teflon superlube (multipurpose), is slightly thicker than the superlube air tool oil. It's great for mech markers. It's a little thick for some solenoid valves though (I might have to increase dwell time a little if it is on the edge). It does seem to stay in the marker better.

Between Outlast and Superlube Air Tool, I doubt you will see much difference in mech mags. If you are trying the milk the last few bps out of an electro, I would try them both.

I really haven't tried enough K-C to see the difference (just borrowed). One thing that I really wouldn't know is what happens if you don't clean your marker and just try to feed it oil to keep it running. Outlast may require less to keep your marker running for some number of shots in either case. Well worn and highly tuned markers are good tests of marker lube.

As part of the preference, you have to learn how to use any lube for a particular marker, how much and how often.

[PBCCharlie]

Mineral oils, no matter how refined, will leave that sludge.

We have been using Outlast in 6 - TM7's (Mini engine) for over a year with no failures. Initially, we removed all other lubricants and then oiled the o-rings with Outlast. Thereafter, drop 8 drops in the ASA before each use. We did experience some initial sluggishness with the first few shots one day when it was below 25 degrees. On one marker, the properties of the oil allowed us to drop the inline pressure (normally 180-200) to 165 psi. The dwell went down as well from 28 to 23. See if one of the others will do that!

The best thing about using Outlast is that you just re-apply. There is no need to wipe the previous Outlast oil application off because there will be no sludge.

[Justus]

I've read over this thread and I think about Tri-Flow lube. It's a fully synthetic oil and has PTFE teflon in it like the SuperLube variant. How does the PTFE affect o-rings? Will that stuff build up? Is it really okay to use this type of oil in the valve through the ASA?

[Ando]

I been using Tri-flow for the last 5 yrs. 2 of those years my guns were in storage. I pulled them apart and was expecting a nasty dried up oily mess but everything was clean. O'Rings were all in great shape and didn't have to replace a single one. Highly recommend it.

...

[georgeyew]

Teflon should not have a negative effect on orings. Lurker lube has Teflon in it also. A lot of people seem to really like it.

[Justus]

I must have skimmed right over that post, Ando. Sorry 'bout that! Sounds like it will work out just fine.

[Ando]

No worries.

[Justus]

What's everyone using for grease? Dow 33? 55? Slick Honey? Something else?

I've got Militec-1 grease for my 20ga O/U... would that work, or should I avoid using it?

(I'm intending to apply a thin film of grease on the regulator springs - cleaned my X-valve last night and found the grease to be pretty dirty, so I cleaned it all off and now intend to reapply fresh before gassing up)

[georgeyew]

I would not use Militec grease on paintball orings. I used Militec 1 oil on a Tippmann and it made the hammer oring very soft and gummy. I think that there is a solvent in Militec that is not compatible with orings.

I personally use Slick Honey.....or Dow 33 if I need something slightly thicker for the reg.

[Alpha {MWB}]

What's everyone using for grease? Dow 33? 55? Slick Honey? Something else?

I've got Militec-1 grease for my 20ga O/U... would that work, or should I avoid using it?

(I'm intending to apply a thin film of grease on the regulator springs - cleaned my X-valve last night and found the grease to be pretty dirty, so I cleaned it all off and now intend to reapply fresh before gassing up)

I m sure you know this, but that is the ONLY place you use Grease in a mag, in the rear spring pack.

[SkinnyHare]

wasn't it just plain old axle grease for the regulator spring pack??? i could have sworn i saw that in the ancient maintenance vid that came with my first mag... a quick whiff of the spring pack seems to agree, but i want to be 100% sure.

[Ando]

Don't know what it was but it smelled like A double S.

[georgeyew]

I think that AGD suggested axle grease or white lithium grease. The purpose of the grease is just to keep the spring pack from rusting. So essentially, any long lasting grease will work. I find that Slick Honey is very sticky and will last a long time on the springs.

[Justus]

I m sure you know this, but that is the ONLY place you use Grease in a mag, in the rear spring pack.

Yep! That's where I'm putting it.

Also, I've got White Lithium Grease at my local hardware store ($2 for 2oz), but no Slick Honey. I think I'll just use what AGD recommended, then. It shouldn't go anywhere outside the reg spring pack anyway.

Thanks for the replies!

[factoid]

Yep! That's where I'm putting it.

Also, I've got White Lithium Grease at my local hardware store ($2 for 2oz), but no Slick Honey. I think I'll just use what AGD recommended, then. It shouldn't go anywhere outside the reg spring pack anyway.

Thanks for the replies!

I'm not finding the thread now, but when I was trying to get this question answered a few months ago i found an old post by TK saying that white lithium grease is fine for the spring pack. It's what I use on my classic. Lithium grease seems to be a little less of a dirt magnet than axel grease also.