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Thread: more info on RT

  1. #1
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    more info on RT

    Hey All,

    Just getting started posting, been lurking for a while. I played paintball years ago when my friends and I all used pump guns (still have my PMI Piranha LB). I've more recently acquired a modded Mag from a friend, who got it off the bay and doesn't know much about it. I've had it in for service so that it works, but I'm still working on getting it tuned to my liking etc. Here's what I know about it -

    valve - s/n RT00058 (is this an oldie but a goodie?)
    frame - dual trigger, wood grips, flat black finish
    mainbody and rail are metallic blue, though def. not anodized since it scratches fairly easily, right side feed
    didn't come with a barrel so I picked a new stock barrel cheap, but I'm also in the process of purchasing a 12" and a 14" from the classifieds here

    I'm guessing, especially due to the low s/n, that this is an Automag RT (not an RT ULE or RT Pro), but I can't be 100% sure. I've done some searching here and, well, 'rt' and 'rt valve' either return 500 hits or won't even return any because they're too numerous...

    So, keeping in mind that I've got some paintball gun experience, but with a pump/CO2 powered gun - where can a guy go to find out more about his marker?

    Thanks!!!

  2. #2
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    The major differences with RT are the valve. It's almost completly covered by the body. Also, the airline passes through the rail before entering the valve.

    If you post a pic of your marker here, helping you would make it easier.
    Last edited by michbich; 04-29-2008 at 03:06 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by michbich
    The major differences with RT are the valve. It's almost completly covered by the body. Also, the airline passes through the rail before entering the valve.

    If you post a pic of your marker here, helping you would make it easier.
    Yup - my valve is almost completely covered by the body (couldn't read a thing off it until I field stripped it), and there's an airline on the right side of the gun from the rail to the foregrip (gas thru), and that has an air line to the bottle mount thing. I'll get some pics tonight, both assembled and disassembled.

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    If you've got any questions about it pm me, mainly because i've gotta take off right now, but yeah, i want to steal your valve because it's newer than mine by about 5000 valves.

  5. #5
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    Thats definately an original Automag RT and has a very low serial number. Good find. You should remove the blue paint off the body and return it back to its original stainless luster. It wouldn't hurt to remove the paint off the rail too. Paint has a way of changing the tolerances due to its thickness. Get a RT kit and give the valve a good cleaning and replace the orings and bolt spring. That way you will be starting with a fresh gun.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #6
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    Cool! It's a sweet looking complete marker - I dig it. Not sold on the blue, mostly becuase it's not the best paintjob in the world. Really I want it to be up and running soon.

    Here are the pics:

    left side



    right side



    valve



    complete

    Last edited by marked74; 04-29-2008 at 09:40 PM. Reason: not too swift

  7. #7
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    Did you air it up to see if it holds air? The paint actualy looks better than what i imagined. I would leave the paint the way it is. Drop in a couple drops of oil in the ASA and air it up, let us know if it's leaking.

  8. #8
    I like the blue RT, it looks nice, sort of serene. Also, i hate you for having such a low number, although with the deal i got i can't complain. I actually had that same drop on it for a while too. Classic RTs are awesome as hell, i love em for some reason. If you ever go selling that valve or the gun, let me know first, just so i can have a piece of history (well with a lower serial number).

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by michbich
    Did you air it up to see if it holds air? The paint actualy looks better than what i imagined. I would leave the paint the way it is. Drop in a couple drops of oil in the ASA and air it up, let us know if it's leaking.
    When I first got it I had it in the shop to get it gassed up and running, and get the bottle hydroed. After getting it running and replacing o-rings, the shop put one of their HPA bottles on it and dry fired it for me. It was good to go then. After FINALLY getting my bottle back (2 months I think it took?) I had them fill it, and as soon as I got home and connected it, the o-ring on the bottle let go. A friend of mine who works on guns for fun was supposed to put another on for me, and that didn't happen. So I was off to the shop Monday - and as it turns out they're closed Mon-Tues... Tonight the bottle gets a new ring, filled, and this thing gets test fired with actual paint. I'll post back with results. It's been a long road...

    Other than the chip and a couple scratches, the blue is ok. It looks nicer up close under light, there's a good sparkle to it. Looks like it's flat black underneath though which I prefer. Or perhaps that was a primer coat... We'll see...

    snoopay - don't hate me, my friend gave this to me with the bottle since, at the time, the gun was not working, had no barrel, the bottle was out of hydro, AND he wasn't playing more than once a year so he figured I'd get more use out of it. This group I hooked up with plays every other Sunday from now until the ground is frozen. Can't WAIT to get this thing going! BTW, the group saw it already and made fun of me - "What the hell is that thing? Why is it so heavy?". Can't wait to go full auto and surprise the hell out of em

  10. #10
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    i must say now! and please listen!

    either have a fast hopper on there (halo or faster) or shoot slow!

    reason being is you do not have a level 10 bolt. and with the hard faced level 7 bolt, you WILL chop paint unless you know for a fact the paint is in the breech every time.
    t33kyboy "So if a cat is dropped from 11 inches, it will most likely die."

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevorjk
    i must say now! and please listen!

    either have a fast hopper on there (halo or faster) or shoot slow!

    reason being is you do not have a level 10 bolt. and with the hard faced level 7 bolt, you WILL chop paint unless you know for a fact the paint is in the breech every time.
    OK will do. Right now I have one of the 'french tickler' hoppers - the agitator variety. Definitely not as fast as a HALO. I'll be upgrading that and the bolt at some point in the future... Would a Warp do it for me? Those are so cool...

    edit - thanks for the tip btw, and for letting me know which bolt that is!
    Last edited by marked74; 04-30-2008 at 09:25 AM. Reason: spelling and more info

  12. #12
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    not a problem, with a level 10, you can run any mag off of any hopper. i have been using a standard gravity feed on my mag so that i wouldn't have to worry about batteries. and since i have installed the level 10 i have had no breaks.

    definetly the best 60-80 you will EVER spend in the mag world

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by marked74
    OK will do. Right now I have one of the 'french tickler' hoppers - the agitator variety. Definitely not as fast as a HALO. I'll be upgrading that and the bolt at some point in the future... Would a Warp do it for me? Those are so cool...

    edit - thanks for the tip btw, and for letting me know which bolt that is!
    Although a warp would reduce the amount of chop compared to the agitated hopper, i would still recomend the lvlx. No hopper or loading system can garantee you paint in the breach everytime you pull the trigger.

  14. #14
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    Cool thanks for the tips! I'm on it.

  15. #15
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    Ooh, damn nice RT! That thing looks gorgeous. A very, very early RT, too.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhoenixWolf
    Ooh, damn nice RT! That thing looks gorgeous. A very, very early RT, too.
    Thanks! Can't wait to get it all cleaned up and running for real. If all goes well, I'll get to try it in-game on Sunday...

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by marked74
    snoopay - don't hate me, my friend gave this to me with the bottle since, at the time, the gun was not working, had no barrel, the bottle was out of hydro, AND he wasn't playing more than once a year so he figured I'd get more use out of it. This group I hooked up with plays every other Sunday from now until the ground is frozen. Can't WAIT to get this thing going! BTW, the group saw it already and made fun of me - "What the hell is that thing? Why is it so heavy?". Can't wait to go full auto and surprise the hell out of em
    Heh, i don't hate you per se, just jealous that you got such a low number. Anyway, yeah, RT's are fun as hell, mine's something like 4 pounds without the tank and hopper i think, or maybe a bit less because that may have been with the q-loader mount on it. Either way it's a blast, and i remember when i first got it i went to fire one shot before the game started and the teams were getting to their sides, and next thing i know 5 shots are out of the barrel. Anyway, hope you have fun with it, and you probably have flat black, they came in both flat black and polished, mine's black.

  18. #18
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    OK - cut out of work a hair or two early to get to the shop on time. I got the new o-ring on the bottle and the bottle filled no issues. Got it home, hooked it up, it dry fires like a charm. I can't not bounce the trigger. Minimum 3 shots, typically (like snoop said) - 5 shots. Hectic! So, I folled the oiling instructions I've seen round here - 3 drops of paintball gun oil in the ASA fitting, hook the bottle up, remove the barrel, and dry fire to get the oil all worked through. Well, without hte barrel on, I can hear it leaking. Sounds like it's coming out the back. I can hear it all around the body, but it's loudest out back by the valve.

    Lemme guess - this means I'm not using this gun this Sunday...

    What does it need?

  19. #19
    Parts kit, actionvillage might have it cheap, otherwise you can get it from airgun.com. Since it's so old you might also need a new regulator piston, mine had that problem and it would fix when i shot, but then it got bad. I ended up getting the piston and now it's like brand new. As for bouncing the trigger, maybe i ended up training myself, don't know what to tell you, maybe someone put a level 10 shim in the on/off, i did that before and it does make it more reactive.

    EDIT:

    I took the liberty of finding these parts for you, i figure you can decide how to go about it, and the parts kit says how many of each oring comes in it, so pay attention so you don't put the orings in the wrong spots.

    http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&categoryID=23
    http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...categoryID=101

    Or you can try actionvillage
    http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/...tomag-rt-parts
    Last edited by snoopay700; 04-30-2008 at 06:13 PM.

  20. #20
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    Thanks for the help snoopay! I'm ordering the parts kit, a regulator seat, and a lvl ten while I'm at it. Might as well, since this gun's not gonna be ready in time for Sunday anyway. Looks like I'll be either using my friend's backup (Spyder), or my old Piranha LB pump. If I can get that running. And get a CO2 bottle for it...

  21. #21
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    To get mind blowing RT you will need a tank reg that puts out more than 850 psi
    I run my RT at about 1100 psi input, and it keeps up with or flat out outshoots everything else on the field

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by marked74
    Thanks for the help snoopay! I'm ordering the parts kit, a regulator seat, and a lvl ten while I'm at it. Might as well, since this gun's not gonna be ready in time for Sunday anyway. Looks like I'll be either using my friend's backup (Spyder), or my old Piranha LB pump. If I can get that running. And get a CO2 bottle for it...
    You don't need a regulator seat, just fyi, that's for a classic mag, and CO2 is a big no no, you need HPA or nothing. This was the first gun to need HPA, in fact it's the reason that tom kaye made HPA tanks.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by snoopay700
    You don't need a regulator seat, just fyi, that's for a classic mag, and CO2 is a big no no, you need HPA or nothing. This was the first gun to need HPA, in fact it's the reason that tom kaye made HPA tanks.
    Thanks for the inside on the reeg seat. BTW, the CO2 bottle is for my pump piranha - not the mag.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by marked74
    Thanks for the inside on the reeg seat. BTW, the CO2 bottle is for my pump piranha - not the mag.
    I notice you mentioned your local shop is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Are you from milwaukee? Paintball Daves?
    ~Kurt

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by kurtisqpublic
    I notice you mentioned your local shop is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Are you from milwaukee? Paintball Daves?
    ~Kurt
    No such luck, though I'd love to visit - heard nothing but fantastic things about hanging out in Milwaukee. Great great sports town. I'm from New Bedford, MA. South Coast Paintball, owned by one of the guys I'm playing with. Awesome guy - totlaly hooked me up today on a VL JR, some pods, and the o ring and fill on my HPA bottle. Support your local shops!!

  26. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by marked74
    Thanks for the inside on the reeg seat. BTW, the CO2 bottle is for my pump piranha - not the mag.
    Ok, i thought that's what you meant after i read it again, but i just didn't want to take chances because i've heard a lot of people ask if they can use co2 with rts.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by snoopay700
    Ok, i thought that's what you meant after i read it again, but i just didn't want to take chances because i've heard a lot of people ask if they can use co2 with rts.
    My friend wanted me to use it with CO2 last time at the field, and I wasn't 100% sure that I couldn't, but didn't want to risk it. Since I've been here I've confirmed that it's HPA only, which is good. More consistency and more shots per fill anyway

    I just put a fairly big order out to Action Village. Parts kits for both the Mag and my old Piranha, the Level Ten bolt for the mag, a 20 oz bottle for the Piranha, and some other goodies. Like a squeegee which, believe it or not, I never owned. It won't be here in time for Sunday, so I'll have to make do borrowing a gun. MAN I can't wait to get this thing restored to it's former glory...

  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by marked74
    My friend wanted me to use it with CO2 last time at the field, and I wasn't 100% sure that I couldn't, but didn't want to risk it. Since I've been here I've confirmed that it's HPA only, which is good. More consistency and more shots per fill anyway

    I just put a fairly big order out to Action Village. Parts kits for both the Mag and my old Piranha, the Level Ten bolt for the mag, a 20 oz bottle for the Piranha, and some other goodies. Like a squeegee which, believe it or not, I never owned. It won't be here in time for Sunday, so I'll have to make do borrowing a gun. MAN I can't wait to get this thing restored to it's former glory...
    If it still leaks out the back a little you'll want that regulator piston from airgun.com before too long afterward.

    As for the squeegee, i never owned one either, i've always taken cotton balls or something and shoved em in my barrel, turned my powerfeed off, and shot. It usually polishes the barrel, but since i got my RT with a level 10 i've never had to worry about it.

  29. #29
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    Your leak around the back area is probably just a piece of dirt or a hardened oring, most likely the one around the back of the regulator piston assembly. I don't know if you gave the valve a complete cleaning inside, but if you didn't, it probably wouldn't hurt.

    Your reactivity is probably enhanced by the fact that the rail and body are painted. It adds thickness to the rail and body which is the same as using a short on-off pin. Prolonged use like that could cause premature wear on the tip of your sear.

    Now that you have a level 10 ordered, you will probably need a higher pressure regulator piston assembly or it may leak out the back. The level 10 bolt operates at a higher pressure and may exceed the safety release pressure of the existing assembly.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Your leak around the back area is probably just a piece of dirt or a hardened oring, most likely the one around the back of the regulator piston assembly. I don't know if you gave the valve a complete cleaning inside, but if you didn't, it probably wouldn't hurt.

    Your reactivity is probably enhanced by the fact that the rail and body are painted. It adds thickness to the rail and body which is the same as using a short on-off pin. Prolonged use like that could cause premature wear on the tip of your sear.

    Now that you have a level 10 ordered, you will probably need a higher pressure regulator piston assembly or it may leak out the back. The level 10 bolt operates at a higher pressure and may exceed the safety release pressure of the existing assembly.
    Thanks for the info! I haven't cleaned out the inside, only because it hadn't been used since hte shop gave it the once-over. I'll clean it out when I replace all the rings when the parts kit comes in.

    Where can I get a 'higehr pressure' regulator piston assembly? I'm guessing the one from airgun.com is the factory replacement for the original, which won't be any higher pressure?

    (sorry again for mag n00b questions, and thanks for the help!!!!)

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