Emag help

[OPBN]

Got lowers with xmod. Seemed to work great without valve and safety on. I put the valve on and aired up. Worked intermittently. Seemed to get a lot of bolt stick. After taking valve on and off bolt still stuck but was working and than suddenly quit. I tried recharging the battery for a little bit thinking maybe it had died, but still doesnt seem to be working again. Any ideas?

[MANN]

check your detents for bolt stick. (take them out while tuning)

make sure you have the correct length on/off pin (.712")

Get the valve to work in mech mode, and then we can worry about the e part.

[OPBN]

Well,.. I am a bit worried that the solenoid on the $380 set of lowers isn't actuating.

I can get it to fire in mech mode, but even without the detents, it is sticking like crazy. One shot and it sticks. occassionally I can sweet spot it and it will fire off two shot due to reactivity. I don't have any extra carriers unfortunately. The valve was working well in a micro mag body that I had. Actually, I just popped the valve back out, stuck it in the Micro body and it starts going great.

Figured out whats wrong with the Emode. One of the wires has come loose. Anyone out there fix these things? I have a small soldering iron, but not sure if I trust myself to fix it without frying something.

[ArmyEngineer]

Does the loose wire crimp into one of the white plastic connectors? If so, you probably don't want to try to solder it.

[OPBN]

No, it's the one that wires into the component on the top of the board... I can see the solder blob that it came loose from.

[Ando]

It's very easy bro. Hold the wire at the solder blob and hit it with the iron. The sec you see it liquefy pull the iron off and keep the wire in place. It will re-solidify and your wire should be good.

Edit:

I can do it for ya if you don't feel up to it. Just pay for the shipping and we'll call it good.

[Tunaman]

If you apply too much heat, you are gonna cook that mosfet. Send it here and I'll fix it right.

[OPBN]

I emailed you back Tuna.

[OPBN]

Fixed the solder joint on the board, so the board is working again. Tried it in Emech mode and it would actually rip a string out... Still some bolt stick, but I seemed to be able to get it to unstick by pulling the trigger back all the way. On strictly E-mode, it still got bolt stick. Even tried putting an SS E-mag body that I had sitting around on it and it seems to stick less, but still sticks.

[Tunaman]

You can almost be sure that the pin size is wrong if the valve worked in a micromag and not too good in an emag.

[OPBN]

Pin length doesn't account for the bolt stick does it?

[fishmishin]

I didn't see it posted anywhere, are you using a quad o-ring with your on/off?

[OPBN]

Thats the black one with the ridges right? I looked at the AGD webstore and the one in the picture looks like the one I have in my on/off.

[fishmishin]

Yep that is the one.

1- What kind of velocity are you getting on the first shot?
2- Have you checked the voltage on the battery when it is fully charged?
3- Like Tuna said check your on/off pin length ! As stated before it should be .712"
4- How tight is the bolt when you try to move it on the powertube? It shouldn't be loose, but you should be able to move it without much effort. In other words it should only have a minimal amount of friction from the carrier o-ring. It mostly sounds like the carrier o-ring is to tight to me, but I am not an expert by any means.

[Ando]

Hey Opbn

Tuna is just saying that cause you more then likely went from a mech setup to a E setup and your pin is 100% likely the wrong size which will cause other issues with your marker. You'll need a E-mag size pin which is .712

You could also try messing with your field strip screw.

If it's not working properly finger tight, go a 1/4 of a turn with a allen key and try shooting it again, then again at 1/2 a turn. Just keep going till it either starts working right, gets worse or you cant turn it anymore. I have 3 markers needing this done to them to stop bolt stick and 2 others to position the on/off correctly for the marker to cycle. Reason being, most if not all my markers have some sport of aftermarket part. Well that's just what I tell myself anyways Could be I don't know what I"m doing but they're all working so I blame the parts.

Edit: Last thing. My last e-mag purchase came to me all dorked up. I had to shorten the trigger rod pass the "specified length" to get it cycling right. I would try this last if nothing else is working for ya. Even the X-Mod software instructions call for you to shorten your rod if it's not cycling right.

[OPBN]

I bought the Emag valve several months ago. I have no way of measuring the on/off pin. TBH, I would think it more likely that it was the correct length, than not. It does fire in E-mode, but once the bolt sticks, it stops. I didn't measure the velocity yet and I have tried the field strip screw finger tight and tried turning it slowly to tighten, with little change in results.

I'm pretty sure the lowers were working well for the last owner. He seems pretty straight and says he used them often. He had an Xvalve that it was set up with before, but I opted not to buy the valve as I already had the Emag valve sitting around.

The only set up besides the Emag lowers that I have tried the Emag valve in was a Micromag setup. And it's VERY reactive in the Micromag.

The bolt seems to have more resistance that the other LvlX's that I have. All of which came as is, so I don't have the extra carriers. I might try to find a LVLX tune kit.

[fishmishin]

What spring are you using with the lvl X ? Just curious
When you put the valve in your micro mag are you swapping on/off pins and changing out the quad o-ring? The stock e-mag on/off pin will be way to short for a mech micromag setup, or is the micro a e-mag also?

[OPBN]

Gold spring. Not swapping anything when putting in the Micro. And like I said, it will fire in E-mode, but once the bolt sticks...

[Ando]

I just re-read your first post. Shortening your sear rod will 100% fix the problem with the safety getting in the way. That was one of the many problems I had with that other set of lowers I got. It just might fix the rest of your problems but defiantly fix your problem with the safety getting in the way.

[OPBN]

I just re-read your first post. Shortening your sear rod will 100% fix the problem with the safety getting in the way. That was one of the many problems I had with that other set of lowers I got. It just might fix the rest of your problems but defiantly fix your problem with the safety getting in the way.

? Safety isn't getting in the way that I can tell. Actually, right now my biggest problem with the safety is it will not totally engage anymore. I pulled the lowers off and in fiddling around, I popped the safety out and it won't go back in right. According to Tuna, the Humback Emag lowers safety sucks. I can push the safety in and the solenoid actuates. Still biggest issues seems to be bolt stick. I am assuming I need to take the valve out and figure out what carrier I have and order the the next sizes higher and lower...?

[Ando]

ROFL

Sorry dude...I posted that in the wrong thread

And like Mann said, get it working in M-Mode then we'll deal with it in E-Mode. Pull it apart and measure your on/off pin, if it's not the correct length, file it down or go buy a new one. You really need to get your pin right before continuing on with the rest of it or your just going to be chasing your tail around. If you have a ULT you can use the shims to mimic the correct pin size but it's a serious pain to tune in E-Mode. I have mine tuned with a ULT but it took me a long while to get it right.

Now I need to find the thread where that posted needed to go

[OPBN]

It is essentially working in E-mech mode. Drained 2k out of a tank in a matter of a minute or so. Working on getting a full Level X kit and retuning.

[OPBN]

Ok, I am guessing it must be the pin.. Got LVL10 carriers today and found the largest carrier that it didn't leak and put it in. Was still getting bolt stick, but noticed something and took the bolt out and tried simply sticking it into the ULE body. Must be something off with the bolt, because if I pushed hard on the bolt, it would actually stick in the body. Seems to get hung up near the sear opening in the rear portion of the body. If I put the red spring in, it seemed to not be able to stick as much. I switched the bolt out for a new one and it doesnt stick... Can the bolt be off?

Valve also started leaking out the back. Took it apart and reoiled it. Can't get it to stop..

UNCLE!!

[athomas]

If I put the red spring in, it seemed to not be able to stick as much.........

Valve also started leaking out the back. Took it apart and reoiled it. Can't get it to stop..

UNCLE!!

If you moved up to the red spring, chances are the velocity was also increased because the red spring requires a higher chamber pressure. In an older valve, this could exceed the release pressure of the regulator piston assembly. The older valves need one of the new higher pressure piston assemblies to work at the higher pressures required by the level 10 bolt.

If the bolt sticks in the body, perhaps the body washer is mushroomed a bit. Check the inside hole of the body. If it is, take a file and smooth it out.

[Bigwooly1013]

no new piston needed for leaking out the back please reference the excellent info i was given when i had this issue.post 2

[OPBN]

If you moved up to the red spring, chances are the velocity was also increased because the red spring requires a higher chamber pressure. In an older valve, this could exceed the release pressure of the regulator piston assembly. The older valves need one of the new higher pressure piston assemblies to work at the higher pressures required by the level 10 bolt.

If the bolt sticks in the body, perhaps the body washer is mushroomed a bit. Check the inside hole of the body. If it is, take a file and smooth it out.

When I put in the red spring, I was just sticking the bolt into the body by hand. When I used the red spring and pushed forward on the bolt, it didn't seem to get stuck, but if I put the gold bolt on and pushed the bolt into the body and compressed the spring, it would get stuck. I would have to take a screw driver and push backward on the bolt through the sear slot to get it back out. The valve didn't leak through the back before. This is a new treat! Took the valve back apart and looked at the regulator piston assembly. According to the AGD reference I saw, it says not to take this apart, but to replace it if it is leaking out the back and less than 300 FPS. I never got to test the FPS. It leaks when I have the regulator nut all the way in, and anywhere in between.

Now I'm out of air...

[Ando]

When I put in the red spring, I was just sticking the bolt into the body by hand. When I used the red spring and pushed forward on the bolt, it didn't seem to get stuck, but if I put the gold bolt on and pushed the bolt into the body and compressed the spring, it would get stuck. I would have to take a screw driver and push backward on the bolt through the sear slot to get it back out. The valve didn't leak through the back before. This is a new treat! Took the valve back apart and looked at the regulator piston assembly. According to the AGD reference I saw, it says not to take this apart, but to replace it if it is leaking out the back and less than 300 FPS. I never got to test the FPS. It leaks when I have the regulator nut all the way in, and anywhere in between.

Now I'm out of air...

Sounds like a bad spring. If the red one isn't doing it it's not your bolt. Toss that spring out the window!!!

[OPBN]

I didn't think to try the original bolt with the other gold spring and vice/versa. Hmm.

[Ando]

These are the internals of your piston. If you look closely you'll see a circular pattern in the center of the rubber seal (second item to the right). That circular grove is what's causing all the leaks. If you flip the seal around and reinstall everything. It'll fix it.

[OPBN]

I did actually try twisting the piston apart and it didn't want to go... I was amped to try and fix it myself, but the more I dig in, the more complicated it seems to get. And I still am not 100% sure that I even have the right on/off pin. Tyring to justify buying a micrometer.