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Thread: Just picked up first MAG, a few questions..

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Track89
    What metal is the MM body made out of?? Stainless, copper, gold etc..
    Stainless steel.

    Twistlock bodies are SS, and came from the factory polished, bead blasted gray, teflon black, and a couple gold-plated.

    Plenty of people have Krylon'ed, powedercoated, ceracoted, and otherwise plated/painted bodies though.

  2. #32
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    the frame doesn't affect the bps. It's all about personal preference but I personally prefer the Intelli.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Track89
    Do the intelli frame's bump up the bps?? I picked up a second one also(yeh i know i didnt even get the first one yet and look what's happening haha) and it has a green Benchmark on it.

    How does the Bench. hold up against the intelli??
    No, an Intelliframe is just a good solid two-finger trigger made by AGD, often though they are modded to make a "Pneumag" which makes the trigger pull very soft and easy to walk, as far as I know Benchmarks change the trigger geometry to make the pull kind of "long and smooth" rather then "short and crisp" some people like'em some don't, I've never tried one.

    Do AGD black teflon bodys actually have anything to do with teflon? I've wondered that for a while.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry
    Stainless steel.

    Twistlock bodies are SS, and came from the factory polished, bead blasted gray, teflon black, and a couple gold-plated.

    Plenty of people have Krylon'ed, powedercoated, ceracoted, and otherwise plated/painted bodies though.

    Has anyone ever tried to rust out the body?? Not tryin' too destroy it but am curious to see what it would look like w/ the rite part's
    Last edited by Track89; 03-03-2010 at 05:29 AM.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Track89
    Has anyone ever tried to rust out the body?? Not tryin' too destroy it but am curious to see what it would look like w/ the rite part's
    First the AGD Intellifeed can only help BPS if you learn how to shoot it right, I myself prefer it over the single trigger, and Benchmark. The bodies are made of Stainless steel or Aluminum, they do not rust. If you have original stainless bodies you need the twist lock barrels, almost all others take cocker threaded barrels to my knowledge. You have already bought another mag? Do you have any pictures to post of it? They are too much fun to play around with, but you will find that once you get one configured the way you want you should never "need" a back up marker. My original Automag from 1994 still works great and I am the 2nd owner. They are built like tanks. My suggestion to you is save some money and go play first.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dominic
    First the AGD Intellifeed can only help BPS if you learn how to shoot it right, I myself prefer it over the single trigger, and Benchmark. The bodies are made of Stainless steel or Aluminum, they do not rust. If you have original stainless bodies you need the twist lock barrels, almost all others take cocker threaded barrels to my knowledge. You have already bought another mag? Do you have any pictures to post of it? They are too much fun to play around with, but you will find that once you get one configured the way you want you should never "need" a back up marker. My original Automag from 1994 still works great and I am the 2nd owner. They are built like tanks. My suggestion to you is save some money and go play first.
    I know, my E-Tac never went down, but I still built a backup mag... too addictive. I want more.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dominic
    First the AGD Intellifeed can only help BPS if you learn how to shoot it right, I myself prefer it over the single trigger, and Benchmark. The bodies are made of Stainless steel or Aluminum, they do not rust. If you have original stainless bodies you need the twist lock barrels, almost all others take cocker threaded barrels to my knowledge. You have already bought another mag? Do you have any pictures to post of it? They are too much fun to play around with, but you will find that once you get one configured the way you want you should never "need" a back up marker. My original Automag from 1994 still works great and I am the 2nd owner. They are built like tanks. My suggestion to you is save some money and go play first.
    Yeh, the second was a deal i couldnt pass up $100 shipped w/ benchmark, trigg, lvl10 'n a few other goodie's.. But the OP deleted the thread which i was a little sketched out about.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Track89
    Has anyone ever tried to rust out the body?? Not tryin' too destroy it but am curious to see what it would look like w/ the rite part's
    Well, you could practice on a destroyed body; they don't die on their own, but plenty of people have intentionally ripped off feednecks with projects in mind then abandoned them.

    My friend has a case-hardened MM body?

  9. #39
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    So i get the Splashed Mini and of course air it up rite away.LEAKING out the barrel like no other haha. Not worried but was told it was in %100 working condition. What could it be..

    I'm having issues with the pic's, keep's saying invalid file type.. go figure
    Last edited by Track89; 03-03-2010 at 09:40 PM.

  10. #40
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    create an account on something like Photobucket. Then when you've uploaded your pictures on their site, go to the "Get Link Code" option and pick the one for forums.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Track89
    So i get the Splashed Mini and of course air it up rite away.LEAKING out the barrel like no other haha. Not worried but was told it was in %100 working condition. What could it be..

    Here's the trio as of today, still waitin' on second Mag to arrive.

    How do i enter pic's?!
    For pics, try Tinypic.com or Imageshack.com and use the "forum" code.

    As for the leak, give a generous squirt of Autolube/Gold Cup/Extreme Rage oil into the ASA, and put a drop in the lube point on the valve. Then gas up the marker with the trigger held down, and take a few shots... It won't necessarily cure your problem but I've found that it takes care of plenty of things that might appear to be bigger problems.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry
    For pics, try Tinypic.com or Imageshack.com and use the "forum" code.

    As for the leak, give a generous squirt of Autolube/Gold Cup/Extreme Rage oil into the ASA, and put a drop in the lube point on the valve. Then gas up the marker with the trigger held down, and take a few shots... It won't necessarily cure your problem but I've found that it takes care of plenty of things that might appear to be bigger problems.
    Will do, but the gun from head-to-toe was oiled up prior to shipping. Almost slipped out of my hands when i took it out the box..

    He said the powertube 'ring was replaced and it could be the on/off is stuck.

    Last edited by Track89; 03-03-2010 at 11:20 PM.

  13. #43
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    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by Track89; 03-03-2010 at 11:57 PM.

  14. #44
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    Do mag's need a certain amout of pressure from the tank to fire correctly??
    It was the velocity that was causing it to leak from the barrel but now it wont fire! The trigger is aired up but when pulled nothing at all happen's.


    Still a noob to mag's but i'm learning more from your help day-by-day

  15. #45
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    Mags need 800 psi + to work properly

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Track89
    Awsome feedback, that was what i was lookin' for. So it looks like the frame will be first on the list(anyone got one layin' around.?) I'll wait 'n see how bad the chop's are and decide if the Lvl10 is necessary.

    How hard are Mag's to clean after a chop??
    Also what little part's should i look out for when dissembling it? (I'm great at loosing ****)
    search for a Y-Grip.



    my RT is really easy to clean after a chop. there's only two screws holding the whole thing together and the body is an empty tube more or less.

    when taking the valve out you might drop the spring but that's a big part you wont lose it. theres nothing really I can think of you have to worry about, besides the screws. I drop screws like it's my job (thank God I'm not an electrician anymore).

  17. #47
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    You should look to the tuning videos on the mainpage of this forum. It will explain EVERYTHING you'll need to know to get your marker setup from whatever state of cosmic mis-alignment it may be under...

    P.S. Once you tune your lvl10 you'll never chop a ball as long as your paint isn't egg shell thin! Perhaps a barrel break.... perhaps one broken in your hopper but NONE by the bolt.

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProblemKinder
    search for a Y-Grip.



    my RT is really easy to clean after a chop. there's only two screws holding the whole thing together and the body is an empty tube more or less.

    when taking the valve out you might drop the spring but that's a big part you wont lose it. theres nothing really I can think of you have to worry about, besides the screws. I drop screws like it's my job (thank God I'm not an electrician anymore).
    Love the Y, like i mentioned earlier in another post i got 1 working Mag out of the 2 busted one's. The lvl10 was working it's all day not one chop even with short stroking it a few time's.

    The second one is still in the work's, i think the problem is in the on/off.. its missing the little brass piece that goes under the on/off

  19. #49
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    If you can't find the on/off top around here. This is the cheapest one on the Bay. I don't like dealing with this guy but do what you have to do.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTOMAG-MINIMAG-...item5acee9f12c

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