Just acquired an x-mag body....

[om3n]

So what should I know? There are a few questions I have.

First of all, I need to anodize it and I'm looking for an anodizer, but I have already started another thread about that.

Second, between the breach and the bolt there is a round threaded area where a ring goes that holds the bolt return spring... Should I locktite it in place? Should I make it flush with the back of the breach area? I can post pics later if I'm not making sense.

Third, eyes. I have an eye that came with the body, but It won't fit with my current system because there is no gap between the lowers and body for even a wire to fit through. also i believe this is a totaly aftermarket eye made by chris nearchos (sp). I don't think the eye I have even works... How can I test it? I have x-mod 1.8 on the board, and when I install the eye I can see infra-red light coming out of it with a video camera, but I can't get the ace option in x-mod to sense that there is anything in front of the eye. Also the switch that appears like it should barely stick out the right side of the body doesn't seem to turn the eye off (if that's even its purpose).

Where could i get a stock agd eye or an eye that will definitely work? I don't care if I have to mill the lowers or the body.

Thanks guys

**EDIT**


here is a video explaining more:

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[om3n]

No one?

[KC]

The threaded ring your talking about should be flush with the front of the body.

So long as you have some milling to the underside of your body, (which you should) You should only need to have your lowers milled for the board. XT can do this, or you can try to find lowers that are already milled. Lowers with a hole above the front of the trigger guard are ace ready.

With xmod 1.8 "ACE" should be set to "ON" then find the screen that says "TRG, ACE" a square should illuminate next to "ACE" when something is in-front of the eye and a square should illuminate next to "TRG" every time you pull the trigger.

The switch should turn the electronics off, completely.

As always feel free to PM me.

-Kristian

[om3n]

The threaded ring your talking about should be flush with the front of the body.

So long as you have some milling to the underside of your body, (which you should) You should only need to have your lowers milled for the board. XT can do this, or you can try to find lowers that are already milled. Lowers with a hole above the front of the trigger guard are ace ready.

With xmod 1.8 "ACE" should be set to "ON" then find the screen that says "TRG, ACE" a square should illuminate next to "ACE" when something is in-front of the eye and a square should illuminate next to "TRG" every time you pull the trigger.

The switch should turn the electronics off, completely.

As always feel free to PM me.

-Kristian

Ok, I took some pictures and made a video.



One question I have about anodizing is what do I do about this little metal part that makes contact with the battery terminal on the lowers. Is it made out of steel? Is it removable? Should I worry about removing it before getting my gun anodized, or will it be fine to leave it there?


Ok, please watch this video, I address everything else here.


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[Madmarx]

Ok, I took some pictures and made a video.



One question I have about anodizing is what do I do about this little metal part that makes contact with the battery terminal on the lowers. Is it made out of steel? Is it removable? Should I worry about removing it before getting my gun anodized, or will it be fine to leave it there?

Yes it's steel
Yes remove it, punch it out.

[Tunaman]

You have the old style gripframe with the hump. You will need to have them milled out for the ace board pocket and tapped for the hold down screw. Those old frames had safety issues and were updated to the new ULE style which had the milling. The adjusting hole would also be missing on the old style. I have a couple of new ones left if you need one. Might be easier to sell that one and get the ULE version.

[om3n]

You have the old style gripframe with the hump. You will need to have them milled out for the ace board pocket and tapped for the hold down screw. Those old frames had safety issues and were updated to the new ULE style which had the milling. The adjusting hole would also be missing on the old style. I have a couple of new ones left if you need one. Might be easier to sell that one and get the ULE version.

ok, interesting. What sort of safety issues did these lowers have? My neighbor (who owes me a favor )has a milling machine and my dad was a tool and dye maker for a bajillion years and has alot of experience doing this sort of thing, so if i could just get confirmation that the eye works I might just have my dad mill this on my neighbor's equipment.

do you (or does anyone) anyone know anything about this eye or what I'm doing wrong, or if it's just plain fried?

[Looper]

I think the reason you did not initially get a response to your thread is everything you ask or need to know is on this forum, just use the search button...

Here is the information about ACE Milling.
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ht=ACE+milling

Your eye problem is because you have a home grown ACE board from Chris Nearchos and his boards did have some issues. I would contact Chris to try and see if he can help you resolve it.

With a tuned LVLX you don't really need the ACE. Just use the board as an on/off switch for the battery, but your battery is connect wrong so the on/off switch won't work...

[om3n]

I think the reason you did not initially get a response to your thread is everything you ask or need to know is on this forum, just use the search button...

Here is the information about ACE Milling.
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ht=ACE+milling

Your eye problem is because you have a home grown ACE board from Chris Nearchos and his boards did have some issues. I would contact Chris to try and see if he can help you resolve it.

With a tuned LVLX you don't really need the ACE. Just use the board as an on/off switch for the battery, but your battery is connect wrong so the on/off switch won't work...

Ok how am I supposed to connect the battery


Also i did search and I didn't find what i was looking for. I will try to talk to Chris though and see what he says. I just want to get this mag done so I don't have to worry about it anymore... If i can get my current setup to work, I will be a happy man. So what were some common problems with this ACE board?

[Looper]

Ok how am I supposed to connect the battery

On a stock AGD ACE board you would have the red wire go from Battery to ACE board then Ace board to Main Board where your current red cable is soldered in with the solenoid. This allows the use of the power switch on the ACE board instead of the yellow pin. But if your lowers are not milled for ACE there is not a lot you can do at this point.

Also i did search and I didn't find what i was looking for.

Then I guess you did not use the right words...

So what were some common problems with this ACE board?

On the stock AGD ACE Boards the paint would leak down from breach and short out the board.

[om3n]

I found an anodizer close to where I live, and I am planning on dropping off my x-mag tonight to be anodized. However, there are two things I can't seem to get apart on my darn lowers: one is this stupid magnet on top of my stock e-mag trigger- is it glued in place?? the second is this part that I asked about above:




I don't have a punch small enough to fit in the hole- can I just pound it out with a nail? I would really appreciate some quick help... Thanks guys.

[kruger]

That is the ground pin. It is just held in place with friction. Just take something and gently push it out. Also, if I remember correctly, the magnet is glued in place. Either use heat to soften the glue or just pry it out and re glue it when you put it back together. Hope this helps.

And you must remove it or the acid will, then you will have to find another one to replace it with.

[om3n]

That is the ground pin. It is just held in place with friction. Just take something and gently push it out. Also, if I remember correctly, the magnet is glued in place. Either use heat to soften the glue or just pry it out and re glue it when you put it back together. Hope this helps.

And you must remove it or the acid will, then you will have to find another one to replace it with.

Well I'm begining to damage the trigger, so I'm just gonna see if the anodizer will allow me to leave it. And that ground pin will NOT come out. I've tried using a vice, hammering it out, I even filed a nail so that it would fit into the hole, pounded the nail into a piece wood and then putting the wood on a peice of concrete and then forcing the body down onto the nail in that hole with all my might, and the nail bent into a z-shape after about 2 seconds of me balancing on the nail.

Is it ok if I leave it in place too?

[kruger]

OK, they will both come out. The thing to do is to tell the ano guy that these are still in the parts. Ask him if he can get them out. He may charge you to do this, but if you cant do it, then he has to. The ground pin is tough to get out, but it will come out. There are ridges on the pin and when it is pushed in, the ridges dig in for a good ground. Also, ask your ano guy if he has done an emag before. If he has, then he will know how to get them out and will know what you are talking about. As I said, if you dont get them out, then the acid will eat them up and it will screw up your ano, and you will have to replace them.

[om3n]

OK, they will both come out. The thing to do is to tell the ano guy that these are still in the parts. Ask him if he can get them out. He may charge you to do this, but if you cant do it, then he has to. The ground pin is tough to get out, but it will come out. There are ridges on the pin and when it is pushed in, the ridges dig in for a good ground. Also, ask your ano guy if he has done an emag before. If he has, then he will know how to get them out and will know what you are talking about. As I said, if you dont get them out, then the acid will eat them up and it will screw up your ano, and you will have to replace them.

I see. He says he has some product he can use to cover it so the acid and dye won't touch it- that's what he is going to do to the magnet. I will email him more information on the ground pin- hopefully he will be able to get it out.

[kcombs9]

I see. He says he has some product he can use to cover it so the acid and dye won't touch it- that's what he is going to do to the magnet. I will email him more information on the ground pin- hopefully he will be able to get it out.

or use the same stuff. once you get the battery pack on you wont see that part of the frame so no one would be the wiser.

[ArmyEngineer]

If I were you, I would not leave the disassembly to the anodizer. Very few people will take the same care you would when handling your gear. I learned that lesson with my last hydro test. An xmag is worth way more than my half spent tank ever was. Don't rush this om3n. Take your time and get it done right the first time. Have you seen any of the anodizer's work?