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Thread: ReTro Valve problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    405

    ReTro Valve problem

    Finally aquired enough spare parts to build myself a back-up gun, so I put in my ReTro valve to get it all tuned up. Immediately ran into a problem I haven't seen or heard anything about.

    ReTro Valve
    L10 Bolt w/ 0 shims
    RT on/off with .745 pin
    900psi input

    When I aired the gun up yesterday it aired up like normal and would fire, but would recharge really slow and the trigger had what felt like more resistance than it should've had. The resistance was pretty even all the way through the trigger pull, remaining "under pressure" even after it fired.

    Today I tried fiddling with it again. I checked all the orings in the valve body and the regulator and they appear fine. I cleaned off and re-greased the regulator piston and springs. This time when I aired it up I couldn't get it to fire at all. I could turn the velocity up until it would vent from the back but it wouldn't fire. If I degassed it while it was leaking out the back, then air it back up, it was leaking full auto style out the reg nut. Any thoughts on this, I am perplexed.
    No gun

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    offshore
    Posts
    8,523
    try tightening the field strip screw with the wrench.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    405
    Well that got it firing again, but it still had the same recharge issue. I could actually hear it recharge, took less than half a second but the fact that it wasn't instant was obvious. Just past the point of firing the trigger pull would be very heavy to the end of the pull, until you let it recharge.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    828
    I am having the same problem with my ReTro just slow recharge. I am going after the reg piston.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Sounds like something is out of place with the regulator pin assembly and/or regulator seat. A heavy pull would indicate an overpressure situation. A slow recharge would indicate that the regulator pin was not moving enough to open the air flow in the regulator. That part is tied to the regulator seat and regulator piston assembly.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    405
    I'll try swapping out the reg pin that's in my X-valve and see if that fixes it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Racine WI
    Posts
    73
    Not to bring up an old thread but I started working on my past projects after a few years. I put together a ule verticle body standard am rail and the retro valve. replaced all the orings in the valve attached a lvl10 setup and put air in the system with a newly rebuilt reg for my 68/4500 tank. The marker airs right up no leaks but once I pull the trigger it fires full auto until I let off the trigger then it stops. ie three round burst with one trigger pull... good for renegade but not for CPX. The on/off pin is a standard 0.750, 2 shims in the power tube for the level 10 and a preset 800psi from my ninja reg. I also tried it with my nitroduck dual reg with the same result.

    I may have a warn out sear but have no idea.. havnt gotten that far with testing yet. any help would be great thanks :-)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,144
    Ck the orings on #30. That's usually the culprit for the full auto bug,that's if you haven't already changed everything in your on/off

    Last edited by Ando; 01-28-2012 at 06:29 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    MrBlack: As mentioned, the on-off top orings are usually the main culprits. Check #22 and 23. 22 is the main one that can lead to reactiveness due to air leakage. Other orings that can cause air to get into the front chamber unabated include #34, and the two at the front of the regulator pin assembly #30.

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