nothing special
classic rt,y frame with warp ule
i went to the field yesterday and my mag was acting weird. it wouldnt recock all the way half of the time. it would shoot fine and then the bolt would sitck forward a little, very little just b 4 locking in place. then it would lose pressure i think because it wouldnt pressurize so i would have to de gas it then air it back up and it would shoot fine 4 a while, b 4 play i oiled the spring and the bolt.... what do i need to look at?
Registered User
If you've changed anything recently (swapped out a trigger, installed a new valve, etc.), then that's probably your culprit. However, if you've had this for a while in this configuration and haven't had similar problems in the past, then there's a few things to check.
1. If you have a Level 10 bolt installed, you may need to look at the carrier o-ring. They do break down over time and need replacing/changing every once in a while.
2. Last time you pulled it apart and put everything back together, you may have over-tightened your field strip screw. That alone can cause bolt stick because the valve is being pulled down too far, so the bolt isn't aligned properly.
That's my $0.02. Hope it helps.
nothing special
no the marker has sat 4 a long time i had keith @ warped sportz mod a hi rise body to work on it, looked good just had to sleeve the back half, a few weeks ago i took it apart and put a warp ule, warp feed and a y frame on it. the bolt it just snug i kno because i had it out just b 4 play..... so i need to look at the level ten, that would b great if it was just that. i would use the hi rise body but i cant seem to get a good barrel... cani just buy the carriers 4 the level x? if so where?Originally Posted by rawbutter
thanks man ur .2 cents is worth a ton to me thank you for the input!
Ramping is for the weak
http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&categoryID=38
Since you could be having "bolt stick" you should buy one size up from your current configuration. Also if you're ordering from them you should get some level 10 power tube o-rings too...
you can always put out a request in the forum for a carrier as well.
Of course it works-its AGD
You are definately getting bolt stick. Remove all the powertube shims and go to the next larger carrier size using the same white carrier oring.
i went to the field yesterday and my mag was acting weird. it wouldnt recock all the way half of the time. it would shoot fine and then the bolt would sitck forward a little, very little just b 4 locking in place. then it would lose pressure i think because it wouldnt pressurize so i would have to de gas it then air it back up and it would shoot fine 4 a while, b 4 play i oiled the spring and the bolt.... what do i need to look at?
Do not ever oil the bolt or bolt spring. That will transfer oil into your breach and barrel area and cause accuracy issues.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
nothing special
i took it apart, well tried there was a washer then the carrier but it wont come out... anything that im missing? its been so long how do i tell the carrier size and its worked fine till last time i used it... is this something that needs to be adjusted time 2 time? should it b moving freely in there?
fire power my friends
What about the little brass bushing in the frame where the field strip screw goes?
nothing special
Don't have 1, this isa retro valve I have the big banjo bolt
Of course it works-its AGD
The washer is probably a shim. It should be removed when tuning the level 10 bolt. You really don't need one installed anyway. The carrier sizes are marked with rings and dots. The rings vary from none to 3 representing a 0 to 3 in size. Them may also be dots or no dots. No dots represents an integer number. Dots represent a half size. (eg; A single ring and dots would be a 1.5 carrier size). When sizing the carrier, always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you try. It is the oring that you are adjusting. Use the largest carrier size that does not leak.
The carrier should come out if you tap the end of the powertube on a hard surface. Use a block of wood or something similar so that you don't damage the end of the powertube. If that doesn't work find something to hook the carrier, like a dental pick. Be careful not to scrape the oring if you use something sharp, or you will ruin the oring. A number 10 screw works well.
Once adjusted, the carrier should not need to be resized for quite a while. The oring has to wear a quite bit for it to need adjusting.
nothing special
is this part supposed to stick or move freely and thats the issue? thanks for the help man!
Of course it works-its AGD
They are free floating but they get stuck all the time due to the tension of the oring between the carrier and the powertube. They are supposed to remain forward against the powertube tip. If they are in that static position for a long period of time, the outer black oring will stick to the powertube. The force to move it isn't that great. If it is too far forward, the powertube tip will push it back when you screw it in. If it is too far back, the force of the air pressure in the chamber will push it forward against the powertube tip.
Justech.us
Of course, there is the white backing washer that goes into the powertube before the carrier. Don't forget that piece. It's not made of metal like the shims. And the easiest way to get the level 10 guts out of the powertube is to use the field strip screw. I was told that by, I think, athomas. lol!
Also, if you're going to order parts from AGD, be sure to pick up a new bolt spring with the order. Another culprit of bolt stick is a worn bolt spring, so if the tuning in the powertube isn't solving the problem, that will be the next place to check. Even if it's not the problem, an extra spring is nice to have on hand for if/when it does become worn out.
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