86 frame to fit automag?

[AutoFiend]

I was wondering if it's possible to mod an 86 frame to fit an automag. I searched thru the forums really quick and didnt see anything posted specifically about this.

Someone on MCB told me XM15 has done it. It seems like it would just require maybe a couple of holes tapped for the field strip screw and maybe the sear.

If anyone has attempted this or even investigated this in detail I would love to hear all about it. Anyways, just brainstorming new ideas.

[sQuidvision]

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...rips-well.html

Page 2, XM15 himself chimes in on 86 frames on mags.

[BiNumber3]

You mean a ccm? should be doable, looks like plenty of room to make any changes needed, I wanted to do so myself but I'd only use a single trigger frame for a pumpmag.

Edit: found the post in the link above, doable but risky it seems when milling the rear for the sear, so unless you have a steady hand..

[AutoFiend]

LOL. I can already see myself spazzing out with a dremel in my hand.

[sjrtk]

They can be made to fit. XM15 did one for TwilightG here, I think he had to open up the rear of the frame for the sear and behind the trigger for the rod. It came out nice when i saw it I don't know how well it works but mabey Twilight can chime in on that.

[AutoFiend]

I've been in contact with XM15 on MCB. He's offered to mill it at a pretty reasonable price so it looks like my minimag project is taking off.

[captian pinky]

well if someone could post pics so i can mill my own.

[sjrtk]

well if someone could post pics so i can mill my own.

If you need to you could just take a mag frame and check the measurements against what you have in the 86 frame.

[VooDoo_Coatings]

It's a very easy mod to do, I have one on my mag. I just milled out a larger slot for the sear in the frame and milled a recess in the frame for the twist lock assembly to sit in. Very straight forward and could even be accomplished with a dremel and drill press in a pinch.

[TwilightG]

They can be made to fit. XM15 did one for TwilightG here, I think he had to open up the rear of the frame for the sear and behind the trigger for the rod. It came out nice when i saw it I don't know how well it works but mabey Twilight can chime in on that.

Sadly, I still have not finished the project.

Yes, XM15 milled my CCM frame, probably about 9 months ago.
The inside top was opened more to allow for sear movement and a notch was drilled for the twist-lock assembly (although I'm using a ULE body so it really wasn't necessary). The hole for the rear frame screw had to be opened a little to accommodate the rail bushing too.

You will not be able to use a standard rear frame screw unless you have the frame milled flat. I wanted to keep the CCM look (and avoid re-annoing a brand new frame) so I just used a stainless button screw instead.

He had modified my trigger as well, although in retrospect, I would have preferred to adjust the sear-rod length. The trigger job is kind of hokey... there's a pin installed just in front of the trigger to prevent forward travel and notch in the back of the trigger for the sear-rod to sit in.

I very briefly tested this and had some chuffing issues, but the valve was not really tuned either. I'm not sure if the trigger job is the culprit or just need to work on the valve a little.
I'm hoping to finish up the project soon, it's been sitting on my wall unfinished for months
I'm having some binding issues with my pump kit but that's a completely different story.

[VooDoo_Coatings]

Sadly, I still have not finished the project.

Yes, XM15 milled my CCM frame, probably about 9 months ago.
The inside top was opened more to allow for sear movement and a notch was drilled for the twist-lock assembly (although I'm using a ULE body so it really wasn't necessary). The hole for the rear frame screw had to be opened a little to accommodate the rail bushing too.

You will not be able to use a standard rear frame screw unless you have the frame milled flat. I wanted to keep the CCM look (and avoid re-annoing a brand new frame) so I just used a stainless button screw instead.

He had modified my trigger as well, although in retrospect, I would have preferred to adjust the sear-rod length. The trigger job is kind of hokey... there's a pin installed just in front of the trigger to prevent forward travel and notch in the back of the trigger for the sear-rod to sit in.

I very briefly tested this and had some chuffing issues, but the valve was not really tuned either. I'm not sure if the trigger job is the culprit or just need to work on the valve a little.
I'm hoping to finish up the project soon, it's been sitting on my wall unfinished for months
I'm having some binding issues with my pump kit but that's a completely different story.

I used a AGD single trigger in the frame and made a bushing for the trigger pin. Then I adjusted the trigger rod length to have the proper gap when aired up. No chuffing at all.