Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
My questions are;
I want it to RT’ing! What should be modified or added to it?
To be reactive, you need a tank that has a high output pressure and lots of air flow capacity. You then need to tune your on-off pin. You want it to be as short as you can get it without compromising its ability to shut off the air before the sear releases the bolt. You can do this by buying a shorter pin and/or adding shims between the on-off assembly halves which simulates a shorter pin. The standard Retro on-off assemblies work better for reactiveness than ULT on-off assemblies.
Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
I don’t undertand what is and do a ULT, ULE, the on/off on those?
ULT - Ultra Light Trigger
The ULT is actually a different on-off assembly that uses a smaller diameter on-off pin. It reduces the force required to pull the trigger but also reduces the force kicking the trigger back. It was designed to reduce the reactiveness of the retro valve although with proper tuning it can be reactive as well, just not as easily as with the standard on-off assembly.
ULE - Ultra Light Engineering
ULE is the designation for parts that have been modified to remove additional metal to lighten the weight without compromising structural integrity.
Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
Should I put macroline or ss hoses? (pros / cons)
Thats more personal preference than anything. SS hoses are stronger and will protect against abrasions in the field. I personally like SS better but I have guns with both. If you use Macro line, make sure it is properly rated for the higher pressures that mags use. Most macroline sold is only rated for the low pressure setups. This includes the fittings.
Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
What is the power tube function why is there spacer?
The powertube is a round tube protruding out the front of the valve. It acts like a guide for the bolt. The spacer allows you to tune the sealing point of the bolt stem. Too short, and the bolt hits it too soon and will not go back far enough for the sear to reset. Too short and the bolt stem doesn't press against it hard enough to seal properly and the gun will leak out the front. There is lots of range for operation, so it isn't something that is hard to tune or something that has to be tuned often if ever once it is set. The newer level 10 bolt systems do not use the powertube spacers.
Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
Is there any other adjustment parts in this gun?
The level 10 bolt system is the most adjustable part. It requires initial tuning, but once it is done, it will work fine for a long time. It usually only needs to be retuned if the oring gets replaced because it gets damaged or wears out.
The ULT is the other part that needs initial tuning, but it also should work a long time without any additional adjustments if it is done correctly.
Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
Should I order any spare parts with it?
You should always keep a spare set of orings nearby. You never know when a piece of dirt is going to get into your setup and cause a leak.
Originally Posted by
Fox_mini
Is there any place I could find videos or picture that can help me with this? And when I’ll have it any instruction to help me setting it up?
Thank’s a lot
There are videos here on AO. Some are available in the stickies, and some are available through a search. Most help is obtained by asking. Ask any question you need to ask, right here in the tech section. There are lots of knowledgeable people here that will help you out with any issues or questions that you have.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.