How do you test it? I can't think of a very good way to make sure a paintball is halfway in the breach, is it just trial and error on the field?
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How do you test it? I can't think of a very good way to make sure a paintball is halfway in the breach, is it just trial and error on the field?
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Cool thanks, I've seen those animations before but now that I can hold the parts in my hand they make a lot more sense
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You can either hold a reball or something else halfway in the breech or trial and error. Some people us their fingers but I haven't yet.
One other thing I forgot to mention, the sooner it vents also means the sooner the big piston takes over. That means the distance that the bolt travels while under low force will be shorter.
This isn't typically a problem from a chopping standpoint though. As such, you can realistically load it up with shims until it leaks, then back off by a shim or two, and if you start chopping paint or the test has it not pinching a reball, remove another shim or two.
Basically the level 10 was made for the guys that complained about the mag being too simple and hassle free compared to a cocker...
Il n'y a point de sots si incommodes que ceux qui ont de l'esprit.
Just to be clear, the shims you are taking about are the ones on the bolt carrier?
So, using the same o ring, go up in size on the bolt carrier until it leaks a little, then back down one size, then up in the number of shims until it leaks a little, then back down a shim or two
Test with reball
Lol, I'm probably one of those guys. My cocker has confused some "cocker guys" before because they couldn't figure out how it works. I figured I need to make a mag at some point to compare, so far I'm absolutely loving it and how things like chopping have mechanical rather than electronic fixes
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Sounds like you've got it. The shims sit on top of the oring carrier and push it further into the power tube.
Most I've ever used has been 2, but normally I run with none because I've never had an issue.
That Cocker looks amazing. Something I would like to eventually scrounge up the money to do....
So just to be clear, if I'm installing the carrier is this shims first then carrier?
Or carrier first?
Ya cocker has taken about 7 years to put together and if I had to guess I'm in it about $1200 at this point but it's been a fairly slow process. And it's very picky. Doesn't always want to work but when it does work, it's an absolute dream to shoot.
I got into cockers at just the right time though, it started life as a 2k5 superstock that I picked up for $200, then I got the e2 frame AND MQ2 valve together for another $200 which would be highway robbery on the market today. Last time I saw a MQ2 valve for sale it was going for $350 on it's own.
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Carrier first then shims.
Damn, that’s the main thing that stopped me putting an MQ in my cocker, I couldn’t find one for anywhere near a reasonable price.
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Next question, what rail is this
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RAWR
Dallara Den
http://lukescustoms.com/rails.html
Teth rail.
One more question
On the bolt carrier, is the o ring towards the back of the marker or the front?
I'm not sure if I have the carrier in the correct way
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