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Thread: Rt valve halves not lining up.

  1. #1

    Rt valve halves not lining up.

    I've got an Rt valve that I was having velocity inconsistencies with. So I took it apart to replace the L10 oring and rebuild the reg. Piston assembly.

    The issue came about when I went to screw the two valve halves back together. The hash marks are not lining up. At first, I didn't think this would be an issue as they are not that far apart. But when I install the valve, it is clearly not rotating enough to allow the alignment between the on/off and the sear. And this is a valve with matching serials.

    This valve worked just fine besides the velocity issue until I took the two halves apart. So not sure what happened or what I did wrong. But any help or constructive criticism is welcome at this point. I can take pictures if need be. But that will have to wait until later tonight.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Mt. Pleasant, SC
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    Did you drop it and ding the mating surface?


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  3. #3
    I'm not trying to be too critical here but several things you say don't match up or make sense. No judgement, not everyone is fully versed in servicing mags and we are all here to learn or teach a thing or two.
    We don't rebuild reg piston assemblies. You can't take them apart. I suppose you could but it would be ruined. So my assumption is you meant the regulator pin assembly. Very different than the reg piston.
    The pins are easily rebuilt. You can either remove the clip and replace the two #779 orings or you can manage to carefully do it without removing the clip. I prefer to remove it.

    You also don't need to separate the halves to swap a level 10 oring. Besides that, you don't swap orings with level 10's. You swap carriers if you have a barrel leak. Same oring. Smaller carrier. If you are on the smallest carrier that you have, then you can start with a new oring and hopefully go back to a larger carrier to start sealing the barrel.

    It is possible the halves don't line up perfectly. Valves that have been taken apart and tightened together many times can wear past the alignment marks. Typically it is minimal and you can simply align the marks and continue to use the the valve. The valve body oring will still seal the two halves. This isn't something that happens after one time taking it apart. One issue that can keep the halves from aligning is the wrong oring for the valve body halves. Make sure it's the correct oring and the proper hardness.

    If your valve halves turn too far then you will have an issue with aligning the z-lock pin and being able to get your banjo bolt in the valve.

    So make sure you are using the proper orings first. Make sure your reg pin is rebuilt properly and the c-clip is secure. Change carriers for a barrel leak first. Do not change orings. Take the oring out of the carrier and move to the next smallest carrier until you have no smaller carrier. Only then start with a new oring. If the halves are turning past the alignment marks just stop at the marks and leave it. The valve will most likely still seal. If the halves are too lose to seal then you'll need to get the valve to an expert to determine if it can be salvaged or if it has worn too much. Several people including myself, Tuna and Pinky can help you with that, if that's the case.

    Go forth and tech more!
    Sandman
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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandman View Post
    I'm not trying to be too critical here but several things you say don't match up or make sense. No judgement, not everyone is fully versed in servicing mags and we are all here to learn or teach a thing or two.
    We don't rebuild reg piston assemblies. You can't take them apart. I suppose you could but it would be ruined. So my assumption is you meant the regulator pin assembly. Very different than the reg piston.
    The pins are easily rebuilt. You can either remove the clip and replace the two #779 orings or you can manage to carefully do it without removing the clip. I prefer to remove it.

    You also don't need to separate the halves to swap a level 10 oring. Besides that, you don't swap orings with level 10's. You swap carriers if you have a barrel leak. Same oring. Smaller carrier. If you are on the smallest carrier that you have, then you can start with a new oring and hopefully go back to a larger carrier to start sealing the barrel.

    It is possible the halves don't line up perfectly. Valves that have been taken apart and tightened together many times can wear past the alignment marks. Typically it is minimal and you can simply align the marks and continue to use the the valve. The valve body oring will still seal the two halves. This isn't something that happens after one time taking it apart. One issue that can keep the halves from aligning is the wrong oring for the valve body halves. Make sure it's the correct oring and the proper hardness.

    If your valve halves turn too far then you will have an issue with aligning the z-lock pin and being able to get your banjo bolt in the valve.

    So make sure you are using the proper orings first. Make sure your reg pin is rebuilt properly and the c-clip is secure. Change carriers for a barrel leak first. Do not change orings. Take the oring out of the carrier and move to the next smallest carrier until you have no smaller carrier. Only then start with a new oring. If the halves are turning past the alignment marks just stop at the marks and leave it. The valve will most likely still seal. If the halves are too lose to seal then you'll need to get the valve to an expert to determine if it can be salvaged or if it has worn too much. Several people including myself, Tuna and Pinky can help you with that, if that's the case.

    Go forth and tech more!
    Sandman
    Good call out. I did mean the regulator pin assembly. As for the L10 o-ring I am referring too, it is the Reg. Seat O-ring, which if I am not mistaken is the same as the L10 power tube o-ring. Or at least on the exploded view I have that is how it is listed.

    Also, I should have been more clear, this is an RT PRO valve and not a classic. But when putting the two halves back together, they do not turn enough to have the alignment marks line up. But I will take another look at it and check the valve body o-ring, along with seeing if it turning too far is the actual cause. But I will definitely let everyone know my findings.

    All the insight and help is always greatly appreciated.

  5. #5
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