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Thread: Logic UEF, bodies, Qloader, Automag RT, Duckslide Phantom - what's it worth anymore??

  1. #1
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    Logic UEF, bodies, Qloader, Automag RT, Duckslide Phantom - what's it worth anymore??

    So I'm clearing out the hobby boxes and have bills to pay - COVID claimed the wife's job for like 6 months and we're trying to play catch-up . I'm even dumping some real guns too (on other sites, obviously). It's honestly been so long that I have no idea what some of these things are worth. I decided to keep just a pair of CO2 powered minimags (in case i ever play again) and everything else worth any money is getting sold. I already put up the tank in the BST.

    Q-loader setup - 8 Q pods, winder, banana hopper, some sort of vert foregrip mounting stud and Q-Pod holder that mounts onto it. The Q-pod holder has some cracking but super solid. 7 of the pods are in good shape with no cracking, one has some cracking but still spins/works when wound. The winder spinny knob is broke off but you can still easily wind it. Overall I'd call it "fair" condition and functional.

    Tac One Warpfeed Body with feedneck and detent

    Dust Black Euro XMag Body with matching PTP barrel and has screw bushing and sear pin-screw. The breech is new and not anodized.

    Logic UEF Mag. It has an RPG polished ULE body and feedneck (I'd consider parting the body & valve from the lowers, if that matters). All like new. I've never even had the whole thing aired up and fired it. Closest I've come to shooting it was a couple years ago I fed the UE frame some LP air just to see if the frame functioned and it appeared to function fine. This thing is minty fresh. Even comes with the eye cover kit, unfilled out warranty card, and unopened Xvalve parts kit. The LPR is, I think, a Smart Parts Max flow(?) but I've never had air to that and don't know if it works.

    Very clean Automag RT - obviously used, but pretty damn clean for a gun of this vintage. Like most RT's the banjo bolt oring is temperamental likes to leak if you torque it too much, or two little, or insult Tom Kaye.

    Complete Duckslide Phantom kit. All the parts needed to set it up for VSC Quick Changer, Dropout Valve Pistol, Constant air, or any other combo. The cool thing is it's not cobbled together. All the accessories were sent to Mike at CCI raw when I made the order (the duckslide kit, bottom ASA, 13ci tank, stock, etc.) and all factory anodized together. Only things not original to the kit are the the 11" freak-insert Frantom barrel and the short 6" black barrel. The 13ci tank with myth reg falls under the 2", too... so it never needs hydro tested. The phantom shows a few light dings from use, But it's very clean and no major scrapes/scuffs anywhere.




  2. #2
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    Dude!

    Sorry to hear about your wife's job, but it's nice to see you.

    AGD recently raised their prices for new stuff, so the used market has ticked up slightly. Those old neglected classics that you used to be able to snag for less than $100 are now selling for closer to $200. So, I wouldn't be surprised if you could get $300 for the RT classic. And the EM Ripper.....if you can actually get it working and take a shooting video, you might be able to get $800 out off it. Maybe more to the right buyer who wanted one when they first came out but missed the pre-order.

    Sadly I've got no clue about the Phantom or Q loader stuff, but I'm sure someone else will chime in.

  3. #3
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    Is there anything that typically goes bad on the EM Rippers? Unfortunately I don't have a tank in-hydro, and the nearest field/fill is like 30 miles away. I could probably put an AIR valve in it and test it with CO2...

  4. #4
    Can you post a pic of the umf internals

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pneumagger View Post
    Is there anything that typically goes bad on the EM Rippers? Unfortunately I don't have a tank in-hydro, and the nearest field/fill is like 30 miles away. I could probably put an AIR valve in it and test it with CO2...
    Do not do that. If co2 gets into the solenoid your in for a very bad time.
    Quote Originally Posted by dano_____ View Post
    I keep forgetting to not feed my mags after midnight so they seem to multiply regularly.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mps18 View Post
    Can you post a pic of the umf internals



  7. #7
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    Pm’ed


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    interested in the em ripper if it goes up for sale.

  9. #9
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    I have a buddy who might fill my ninja tank for me so I can verify it’s tested/shooting. Then I’m posting it up.

  10. #10
    Better pics of the phantom?

    More importantly though... PM a list of the real steel?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobsterboy View Post
    Better pics of the phantom?

    More importantly though... PM a list of the real steel?
    https://imgur.com/a/boNWnPo
    That album has a lot of pics of the phantom & stuff.

  12. #12
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    Parts Sent to BST sale threads.

  13. #13
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    Bigevil worked on my em ripper. He can probably enlighten you as to what to look out for on it .

  14. #14
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    Already gone out the door to Mps18

    my biggest worry working on EP mags was getting a good LPR and making sure the LPR didn't creep. It's almost impossible to blow something like an MSV-2 because the hoses pop when you get high enough, but most solenoid valves are pretty fragile. Most can't take more than 70-100 PSI. And they're tough to fix and expensive to replace. I'd air the lprs up on a test gauge around 70psi and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to see if the reg creeped. Many creeped despite being clean and lubed. You can also see how bad the LPR spikes when degassed this way.

    Many people don't realize, but most LPRs have output pressures inversely proportional to their input pressure. This proportionality is directly related to the piston vs. reg seat size ratio. So if your tank output drops below the regulated value, the LPR pressure slowly rises as your tank drops. And every time you degas the gun, you'll get an LPR spike because the LPR pressure supply is dropping to zero. I got into a habit of holding down my pneumag triggers while quickly degassing so the pressure spike would be continually vented and not build up. You could hear the pressure spiking at the vent hole while doing this.

    Good regs and an LP volume chamber are the keys to a good pneumatic trigger. I found the best regs were Palmer rocks/microrocks and AKA regs. Very large piston/seat ratio and a large diameter springs.

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