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Thread: Warp Link/Sensor

  1. #1
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    Warp Link/Sensor

    Fiddling with a used warp I got years back and never used.

    1 - vibration sensor only triggers when the sensitivity is cranked almost all the way up and is only full on. Doesn’t seem to respond to vibration, regardless of setting or jumper. Should I consider this a PTP warp intended for the bracket mount sensor?

    2 - if I build a link to a trigger switch is it on a TRS(stereo) or TS(mono) 2.5mm/3/32?

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
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    Radio Shack Part Numbers:
    3/32" (2.5mm) phone plugs 274-289
    22 guage wire 278-1224
    Roller lever switch 275-017
    Round head machine screws 64-3010
    Hex nuts 64-3017

  3. #3
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    Name:  12v_mod_install.JPG
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  4. #4
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    Thanks very much

  5. #5
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    Your welcome

  6. #6
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    Just to clarify:

    Name:  12 Warp Mod Instructions.jpg
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  7. #7
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    Thanks! Definitely not how I took it from the first picture. So it’s just simple series through a voltage regulator then? The shrink on the battery side was deceiving haha. Looked a little like all three were joined into single red to regulator. If I were to do a direct wire instead of a 9 volt clip on the warp side (probably not a benefit other than cleaning it up a little) it would be warp black to regulator center lug and warp red to regulator right, correct?

  8. #8
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    I use to make the harnesses that way just to keep it clean, the individual connections do have heat shrink on them, I just added a larger one over both to clean up the loose wires.

    Personally I wouldn't mess with the board for ease of repair if it ever needed it. There's plenty of room in the Warp housing for the harness, but if you want to take it further and you and know what you're doing go for it.

  9. #9
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    Thanks! I know more in the audio signal world, but some translates. Tucked and shrinked that way is definitely cleaner. Hadn’t thought about keeping clips for changing the regulator if needed. I’ll go that direction.

  10. #10
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    The only other mod I use to do on these was an on/off switch with an LED (on light)

    I machined the housings on a knee mill
    The light and switch were inline on opposite sides of the housing, there was just enough room to fit the parts and wiring.

    Name:  Warp Light.jpg
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    Name:  Warp Switch.jpg
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  11. #11
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    On/Off LED wiring
    Radio Shack LED 276-011
    Switch 275-624 or 275-0645

    Name:  Warp On Off With LED.jpg
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Size:  53.8 KB

  12. #12
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    Contact Sandman @ AGD for Custom Lc Warp Brackets (I'm pretty sure they're not listed on the AGD website)

    That's all I got. lol

  13. #13
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    One more ha. Sandman listed a couple of your mounts. A forward mount and a rear mount (I see that in the newest for sale mag post with the zgrip and sidekick). Having a hard time conceptualizing what the forward mount would look like installed. Didn’t find any old posts with a quick search here. Any chance you have a link/photos of how that comes together?
    Last edited by CFEL08; 02-14-2022 at 09:33 PM.

  14. #14
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    The rear mount is the easiest to setup and is my favorite. It mounts using two of the three top screw holes in the case, front and middle or rear and middle. It re-positions the Warp and hopper towards the back of the marker so you dont have to reach around for the foregrip like you do with a factory mount.

  15. #15
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    Makes sense. And without the angled design of the factory not PTP fixed mount. So logically the forward mount would push it up pretty significantly toward the foregrip? Unless you mounted it backwards haha

  16. #16
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    It does indeed move everything forward

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